Mounting a Speaker to a baffle

Peter Menting · 21st October 2003, 03:48 PM

Over the years I have used many methods to mount speakers including screws, bolts, flexible glues; coupled with various materials used for gaskets. I would be interested in hearing personal views on this subject, in short "What method do you use to mount a speaker?"

Pete

Bob Brines · 21st October 2003, 06:23 PM

Threaded inserts.

Bob

rossco · 21st October 2003, 09:22 PM

t-nuts on anything 15" or over and simple screws on anything 12" or less.........

elektratig · 22nd October 2003, 01:09 AM

I'm with Bob Brines on this. I use threaded inserts and machine screws for all drivers and even plate amps. For larger drivers I use the largest screw (and thus insert) the driver can take: 10-24 or even 1/4-20 for some 15" woofers and subwoofers. McFeelys and McMaster-Carr.

GM · 22nd October 2003, 01:31 AM

Normally, whatever size machine thread t-nut is appropriate. Gasket material is Mortite if I'm not using the supplied one.

GM

Variac · 22nd October 2003, 02:31 AM

How about those cool clamps that JBL uses to attach
low drivers into their monitors. Anyone have a source?

GM · 22nd October 2003, 03:39 AM

You want like JBL, I imagine you'll have to buy JBL. Basic prosound clamps are available in hardware stores or on-line at Martin Sound.

GM

Peter Menting · 22nd October 2003, 01:40 PM

I prefer using a "flexible adhesive" for drivers up to 6.5". With the baffle facing upwards I place a bead of adhesive around the routed insert, press 4 felt washers into the adhesive to prevent the driver from touching the baffle, and let the weight of the driver hold it in place. Cure for a day before using.

For 8" and upwards I use threaded inserts as long as the baffle is wood or plywood. I do not like them in mdf as they tend to loosen up with time. Mortite is a great gasket material, better I think than the gaskets supplied with many drivers, it also is useful to "deaden" drivers with stamped steel frames.

Thanks for your opinions, hope this info might help first time builders.

Regards,
Pete

MarkMcK · 22nd October 2003, 03:46 PM

I follow the theory of tightly coupling materials of dissimilar mechanical characteristics to maximize the damping effect of each on the other.

To do this, I have found that a thin coating of rubber cement will seal air leaks and prevent high frequency rattles while allowing the metal of the basket and the wood or plastic/composite of the baffle to maximally damp each's natural resonance characteristics.

This approach seems to work well even with stamped steel baskets.

Mark

Jolted_Chicken · 23rd October 2003, 01:28 AM

Do anyone have any pictures of threaded inserts?

I've only been using t-nuts but the smallest size i can get is for 5mm screws.

Can threaded insert take screws narrower than 5mm?

21st October 2003, 03:48 PM	#1
Peter Menting diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Blackstone VA	Mounting a Speaker to a baffle Over the years I have used many methods to mount speakers including screws, bolts, flexible glues; coupled with various materials used for gaskets. I would be interested in hearing personal views on this subject, in short "What method do you use to mount a speaker?" Pete

22nd October 2003, 01:31 AM	#5
GM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chamblee, Ga.	Normally, whatever size machine thread t-nut is appropriate. Gasket material is Mortite if I'm not using the supplied one. GM __________________ Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.

22nd October 2003, 02:31 AM	#6
Variac diyAudio Editor Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: San Francisco, USA	How about those cool clamps that JBL uses to attach low drivers into their monitors. Anyone have a source? __________________ Burning Amp Festival Sunday, October 28th, 2012 in S.F. We need Volunteers & sign-up's for what you're bringing!

22nd October 2003, 03:39 AM	#7
GM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chamblee, Ga.	You want like JBL, I imagine you'll have to buy JBL. Basic prosound clamps are available in hardware stores or on-line at Martin Sound. GM __________________ Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.

23rd October 2003, 01:28 AM	#10
Jolted_Chicken diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Free Range Chicken	Threaded insert Do anyone have any pictures of threaded inserts? I've only been using t-nuts but the smallest size i can get is for 5mm screws. Can threaded insert take screws narrower than 5mm?


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21st October 2003, 06:23 PM	#2
Bob Brines diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Hot Spring Village AR	Threaded inserts. Bob

21st October 2003, 09:22 PM	#3
rossco diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: UK	t-nuts on anything 15" or over and simple screws on anything 12" or less.........

22nd October 2003, 01:09 AM	#4
elektratig diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: USA	I'm with Bob Brines on this. I use threaded inserts and machine screws for all drivers and even plate amps. For larger drivers I use the largest screw (and thus insert) the driver can take: 10-24 or even 1/4-20 for some 15" woofers and subwoofers. McFeelys and McMaster-Carr.

22nd October 2003, 01:40 PM	#8
Peter Menting diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Blackstone VA	I prefer using a "flexible adhesive" for drivers up to 6.5". With the baffle facing upwards I place a bead of adhesive around the routed insert, press 4 felt washers into the adhesive to prevent the driver from touching the baffle, and let the weight of the driver hold it in place. Cure for a day before using. For 8" and upwards I use threaded inserts as long as the baffle is wood or plywood. I do not like them in mdf as they tend to loosen up with time. Mortite is a great gasket material, better I think than the gaskets supplied with many drivers, it also is useful to "deaden" drivers with stamped steel frames. Thanks for your opinions, hope this info might help first time builders. Regards, Pete

22nd October 2003, 03:46 PM	#9
MarkMcK diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Ohio	I follow the theory of tightly coupling materials of dissimilar mechanical characteristics to maximize the damping effect of each on the other. To do this, I have found that a thin coating of rubber cement will seal air leaks and prevent high frequency rattles while allowing the metal of the basket and the wood or plastic/composite of the baffle to maximally damp each's natural resonance characteristics. This approach seems to work well even with stamped steel baskets. Mark

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