"Disconnecting the bass"

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This is my guess as to what the repair guy did, just pull one of the wires from the woofer in case it was blown and presented a short to the amplifier. Headphone jacks, AFAIK, are usually driven by a small OP amp that's fed from the gain stage of the amplifier, so if a shorted woofer welded something inside the amplifier, the headphone output would be unaffected.

www.LJclub.net

It's not one of those blob ICs, but who knows. If something in the amplifier "snapped" (was there a smell or some smoke?) it's most likely dead, or mostly dead.

He's already had the woofer out to reconnect it (reverse what the repair guy did), so it shouldn't be too difficult to test it.
Sounds good.
 
Hi, all thanks again for all your input!

I tried the battery test, but there was no movement or pop sound at all for the two woofers that I tested when connecting their cables to a 9V battery. I thought that I might just be too stupid to connect the battery properly, but I did manage to power a light bulb, so probably it's indeed the woofers that are broken and not me :). I neither got a response from the woofers when connecting them directly to the stereo.

I am just wondering why all the woofers should have been stopped working at once. Could this for example happen when there is a spike in the signal, and shouldn't I then see outside damage, e.g. burnt cables or damage in the cone? Is it possible to open the woofers further (they seem to be of little use now, so I am happy to experimenting) to see what might have happened?

Some answers to your questions:

I'm still trying to determine from your first post if the 'repairman' did something to the speakers or the stereo itself. It sounds like you took both.

Yes, I took both since I was not sure which part was broken. I only managed to talk to the shop owner (who spoke little English) and not directly to the shop's "repairmen" (who spoke no English), so I really only understood that they somehow "disconnected the bass".

It's not one of those blob ICs, but who knows. If something in the amplifier "snapped" (was there a smell or some smoke?) it's most likely dead, or mostly dead.

I don't think there was any smoke. Someone fell over the amplifier's power chord (disconnecting the amplifier) a few minutes before the volume got suddenly low, might that somehow have contributed to the damage?

Below some more pictures, as requested:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Greetings!
Jan
 
If there's no movement in the drivers when a battery is connected (9 volts is a little strong, but if it didn't move then *shrug*)

It's unlikely that a trip over the power cord would cause damage, unless your amplifier has a turn on/off transient that makes a DC pop...and if you had the volume up to ridiculous levels, this pop could have presented enough power to snap something.

If possible, try desoldering the driver from the wires that connect it to the crossover and try the battery directly on it's terminals. Be careful with a 9v battery, as that's probably enough to pop it out to x-max if it works. It's possible that a component on the crossover that's connected in parallel is shorted, which would mean as long as the woofer is connected, it's terminals are shorted, which would stop the battery from working.

See if you can get the wires loose from the woofer driver and try the battery again.
 
I just had a second look at the surround on the driver in the first picture. is the surround separated from the frame on the outside? Over-driven perhaps?

It looks like someone tried to take the driver out, but put a flathead screwdriver at the edge of the surround, not understanding that the basket was part of it.

Ah well, if it's electrically blown, it all works out in the end anyway.
 
Yes, use a 1.5V battery just in case and use different wires, not the crossover ones. Can you borrow a multimeter from someone?

I tried both 1.5V and 9V, no response. I don't have a multimeter here, but before trashing the speakers I will make sure to make some last measurements :)

If possible, try desoldering the driver from the wires that connect it to the crossover and try the battery directly on it's terminals. Be careful with a 9v battery, as that's probably enough to pop it out to x-max if it works. It's possible that a component on the crossover that's connected in parallel is shorted, which would mean as long as the woofer is connected, it's terminals are shorted, which would stop the battery from working.

Thanks - I couldn't desolder the driver without equipment, but I cut the cable to disconnect it from the crossover. Still no response with the battery though :-(

Ah well, if it's electrically blown, it all works out in the end anyway.

Yes, guess it is gone. :-( Thanks a lot all anyways for your recommendations - at least I learned something about the insides of my speakers :)
 
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