Well, I thought about it and.....I don't think it's necessary to go crazy with the design. I thought you were going to use these for attentive listening, but if you are 25 ft. away and the speakers are against the wall, firing over 3 cars, well, you should just go for exstention and dynamics.
At this point in life I listen to fairly loud blues/rock some days and ladies singing jazz vocals on other days. No car in third bay of garage; just gym equipment and speakers!! I agree--don't want to get overly complicated; my skill level won't premit it anyway.
Do you still think the 10" woofer with a 3 to 4" full ranger crossed at 600Hz might be a way to go???
Do you still think the 10" woofer with a 3 to 4" full ranger crossed at 600Hz might be a way to go???
Melo T--that sounds like a good plan to me; although using a "subwoofer" kind of threw me.
Soooo, using the Peerless we have a Qts of .54 and Vas of 1.17 and a multiplier of 2.6; I got a box size of 3.0 cu ft. which is still too large. I need something in the 1.5 cu ft range. (box of about 30" wide/12" high/10" deep is what I can live with on that back wall of the garage.
If I am understanding this correctly a 1.5 cu in box is going to hurt my bass a great deal since 3 cu ft appears to be optimum.
Am I off the rails again ???
Soooo, using the Peerless we have a Qts of .54 and Vas of 1.17 and a multiplier of 2.6; I got a box size of 3.0 cu ft. which is still too large. I need something in the 1.5 cu ft range. (box of about 30" wide/12" high/10" deep is what I can live with on that back wall of the garage.
If I am understanding this correctly a 1.5 cu in box is going to hurt my bass a great deal since 3 cu ft appears to be optimum.
Am I off the rails again ???
In your case I would make something like this...
You can put the entire voice coil rated power into this and it only needs a single capacitor at 60Hz. as a filter.
If rock n' roll is your thing this will give it to you.in large amounts, a pair can produce peak levels of around 120db..
They are usually used with horn drivers crossing over in the 1500Hz. region and I would use one of these.
rcw
rcw
You can put the entire voice coil rated power into this and it only needs a single capacitor at 60Hz. as a filter.
If rock n' roll is your thing this will give it to you.in large amounts, a pair can produce peak levels of around 120db..
They are usually used with horn drivers crossing over in the 1500Hz. region and I would use one of these.
rcw
rcw
Melo T--that sounds like a good plan to me; although using a "subwoofer" kind of threw me.
Soooo, using the Peerless we have a Qts of .54 and Vas of 1.17 and a multiplier of 2.6; I got a box size of 3.0 cu ft. which is still too large. I need something in the 1.5 cu ft range. (box of about 30" wide/12" high/10" deep is what I can live with on that back wall of the garage.
If I am understanding this correctly a 1.5 cu in box is going to hurt my bass a great deal since 3 cu ft appears to be optimum.
Am I off the rails again ???
I suggested the peerless because it seams as though you wanted a beefy driver. Also the sensitivity was a better match for the vifa full range. You can use it in a 1.5 ^3 box and have a -3 at 35Hz, with a 2.5 db bump. It will have lower distortion on the bottom end as well. Like I said, you can get away with an under damped alignment in a huge room. I think you will like this very much. I can draw out a box design in my vector program if you like
Also, this "subwoofer" is good up to 1000Hz.
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I would be grateful if you could do the box design for me !!!! I think I will go with this driver set up. I have two more questions: The term "1.5^3"--what does the "^3" mean?? And, on the cross over board, do I just have to solder to leads to the appropriate terminals and thats it??
Thanks for all your help. I like this plan because its kind of unusual to use just a full range with a woofer set up--I like it. I will try not to bug you incessantly with this project; I kind of feel like I have imposed on you and will try to avoid doing so in the future.
Thanks for all your help. I like this plan because its kind of unusual to use just a full range with a woofer set up--I like it. I will try not to bug you incessantly with this project; I kind of feel like I have imposed on you and will try to avoid doing so in the future.
Here's the port.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=268-350&scqty=1
The grey circle around the full range is felt.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=268-350&scqty=1
The grey circle around the full range is felt.
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Soooo, the 4"X10.5" Pvc pipe is acting as an isolating chamber for the Vifa full range and the end of the pipe should be sealed carefully?? The I' round over is cosmetic and done by router?? The chamfer on the inside fo the front baffle is for the end of the 4"PVC to sit in and should also be sealed ??
I found this one for 3 bucks.
Flared Port Tube 3" ID x 11" L with 5" Flared Ends 269-165
The chamfer bit is for the full ranger to breath, if it's not done, the thickness of the baffle will almost seal the driver.
The roundover is for edge diffraction.
The felt around the vifa is also for diffraction.
It also looks better than the oddly shaped vifa.
You have a router, right?
Remember to countersink the drivers flush to the baffle.
Yes, seal the pipe to both ends.
Flared Port Tube 3" ID x 11" L with 5" Flared Ends 269-165
The chamfer bit is for the full ranger to breath, if it's not done, the thickness of the baffle will almost seal the driver.
The roundover is for edge diffraction.
The felt around the vifa is also for diffraction.
It also looks better than the oddly shaped vifa.
You have a router, right?
Remember to countersink the drivers flush to the baffle.
Yes, seal the pipe to both ends.
C1191 1"r Roundover Bit, 1/2" Shank
http://www.grizzly.com/products/45-Chamfer-Bit-1-2-Shank-1-5-8-Dia-/C1133
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Double-Fluted-Bit-1-2-Shank-1-2-Dia-1-3-16-L/C1011
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=365-255
If you are going to use clamps, get the Irwin brand at home depot.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/45-Chamfer-Bit-1-2-Shank-1-5-8-Dia-/C1133
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Double-Fluted-Bit-1-2-Shank-1-2-Dia-1-3-16-L/C1011
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=365-255
If you are going to use clamps, get the Irwin brand at home depot.
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Rout a 3" hole for the vifa, then chamfer around the hole on the inside of the baffle 45 degrees. The PVC pipe is glued behind the driver, and to the back wall. The felt is on the outside of the baffle.
Countersink the vifa, then cut a 3" hole in the felt and glue around the vifa.
You could even countersink the felt....for appearance.
So, route down 1/8" 6" wide.
this is to countersink the felt
Get 1/8" felt *6"
Then route in the same spot 1/8" down, 4" wide.
This is to countersink the driver.
Then route a hole in the same spot, 3" wide
This is the hole for the driver.
Then chamfer around that 3" hole on the inside of the baffle.
Countersink the vifa, then cut a 3" hole in the felt and glue around the vifa.
You could even countersink the felt....for appearance.
So, route down 1/8" 6" wide.
this is to countersink the felt
Get 1/8" felt *6"
Then route in the same spot 1/8" down, 4" wide.
This is to countersink the driver.
Then route a hole in the same spot, 3" wide
This is the hole for the driver.
Then chamfer around that 3" hole on the inside of the baffle.
Yes, sorry...I was typing with you were replying
You will need this too.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-317&FTR=acousta stuff
Stuff the box and the PVC pipe.
Not the port.
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I think that about covers it for now. I will assemble all the parts and get myself in gear when the temp here drops to a acceptable level . Needless to say I will keep you posted regarding progress at important junctures. Thanks again for all your assistance; it's good to know that there are still nice people in the world.
I last question---Is the Event Horizon an open baffle design? and how does it generate adequate bass from such small drivers??
I last question---Is the Event Horizon an open baffle design? and how does it generate adequate bass from such small drivers??
Hey thanx!
Glad I can help.
You should start a build thread and take pictures along the way.
Yeah, the "Event Horizon" is open baffle.
It can do bass because there is a crap load of drivers
It has the total cone area of about 2-16" drivers.
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