Want to build budget nearfield computer speakers, which plans/amp to choose?

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Hi all,
I'm looking to build a pair of nearfield computer speakers from online plans, but am having trouble choosing which to pursue.

I'm pretty sensitive to higher frequencies and usually prefer a more 'laid back', listen all day type of tweeter.

I was looking at these two designs so far, but am worried both are designed for listening from ~10ft away and would have excessive high frequency response when used as a nearfield:
ZA5.2
Zaph|Audio - ZA5 Speaker Designs with ZA14W08 woofer and Vifa DQ25SC16-04 tweeter

Swift
Amps Lab Swift

I have a moderate amount of soldering and carpentry experience, so crossover and cabinet fabrication is not out of the question. I have also installed and tuned a fully active car audio system, so passive speaker designs are not mandatory as I could use software crossovers with a multichannel soundcard.

Any input on these or suggestions of alternatives is highly welcomed.

Additionally, I need a small amplifier, and would either build from plans or purchase a reputable used one. It could be a simple power amp as I currently have an M-Audio Audiophile USB that could act as a DAC/Preamp, but, once again, I'm open to any superior alternatives. (Is the Audiophile USB even a good preamp?)



Thanks in advance to all! :eek:
 
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Well the cheap option ( and certainly not the worst) is to use the sound-output on the computers soundcard to a cheap stereo amp.
For instance I use a small Alessis RA-100 and my wife uses a 300 watt Inkel, both cost less than building a kit.

That's exactly what I was considering, having the RCA output from the M-Audio Audiophile going right into a small used stereo amplifier, as it seems to be a cheap and easy solution (as long as the Audiophile doesn't suck as a preamp, :p I've had nothing to compare it against so I can't really judge its performance accurately).

That RA-100 looks great by the way, 75x2 @ 8ohms is perfect. How much did you get your amps for if you don't mind me asking?

I've heard Alesis were solid amplifiers in the past, any other brands I should keep an eye out for on Craigslist?
 
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See the second place design here: Zaph|Audio - Design Contest Results

By Alexandre Chamagne.

Or use a Mark Audio alpair 7 in a 7L sealed box with computer eq. Or a Planet 10 box. Or any other Mark Audio full ranger.

Or a Kef coax design, but I don't think there are designs for it out there.

I disagree with using the Overnight Sensation. Very high cross over with relatively large CtC driver spacing. My belief for desktop use is point source. You're so close to the speaker, you need full range, coax, or very low cross over. You also don't want much baffle step compensation because the desk extends the baffle such that it's nearly 2pi. The overnight sensations use full BSC. No offense to Paul, it's not the first time I've said this.

I have experience with that tweeter in the Zaph contest design and it's nicely laid back. But my preferred approach is to use a good full ranger.
 
I disagree with using the Overnight Sensation. Very high cross over with relatively large CtC driver spacing. My belief for desktop use is point source. You're so close to the speaker, you need full range, coax, or very low cross over. You also don't want much baffle step compensation because the desk extends the baffle such that it's nearly 2pi. The overnight sensations use full BSC. No offense to Paul, it's not the first time I've said this.

I've had mine on my desk a couple of times for fun and they seemed to do pretty well for what they cost to make. *shrug*

As for point source in near field, you have a point. Maybe a pair of chp-70s would do better.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
That RA-100 looks great by the way, 75x2 @ 8ohms is perfect. How much did you get your amps for if you don't mind me asking?

I've heard Alesis were solid amplifiers in the past, any other brands I should keep an eye out for on Craigslist?

From memory I paid $100- AUD for it about 10 years ago, very solid performer.
Being a PRO amp it needs 1/4inch jacks, nobody should need more power than this for near-field. I also used it on occasion to drive the top end of my party set-up.
Buying second hand is always a risky thing but Rotel from the early days usually sell cheap as no-one wants an amp that puts out :"ONLY" 20 watts these days
 
Thank you for the replies everyone! Sorry for the delay in response as I just got back into town from a vacation.

You guys have sold me on fullrange drivers, the simplicity makes them extremely appealing.

My question now is 3" or 4" (I guess price is the only limiting factor to going larger)? There will be a subwoofer added down the line, would I have to cross it over close to 200hz just to mate up with a 3" driver?

The Fostex and Mark Audio drivers linked by planet10 and tuxedocivic look quite appealing, though it appears that the Fostex drivers might be easier to equalize due to more even frequency response. Is the FF105WK a good driver as well?
 
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From memory I paid $100- AUD for it about 10 years ago, very solid performer.
Being a PRO amp it needs 1/4inch jacks, nobody should need more power than this for near-field. I also used it on occasion to drive the top end of my party set-up.
Buying second hand is always a risky thing but Rotel from the early days usually sell cheap as no-one wants an amp that puts out :"ONLY" 20 watts these days

I've had quite good luck with buying used amplifiers, though sticking with well built brands helps quite a bit as well.

It's funny, the more I learn about how wattage ratings are determined for amplifiers the less relevant they seem in everything except marketing. :p
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I've had quite good luck with buying used amplifiers, though sticking with well built brands helps quite a bit as well.

It's funny, the more I learn about how wattage ratings are determined for amplifiers the less relevant they seem in everything except marketing. :p

You wouldn't be talking about those cheap plastic "All-in-one' systems with 3300Watts PMPO would you??

I find 100 watts adequate, provided there is the current capacity to drive a low impedance load.

i used to think that there was no difference between the "Sound" of different amplifiers but I bought an old Kenwood/Trio and realised I was wrong
 
You wouldn't be talking about those cheap plastic "All-in-one' systems with 3300Watts PMPO would you??

I find 100 watts adequate, provided there is the current capacity to drive a low impedance load.

i used to think that there was no difference between the "Sound" of different amplifiers but I bought an old Kenwood/Trio and realised I was wrong

Yes exactly, an amplifier with a 25amp fuse claiming 3000 watts of 'peak' output, silly marketing departments. :p

100watts is more than adequate, I currently have 100watts at 8ohms per side on my Peerless 7" mids in my car, and all I can say is overkill. :D

I also used to think amps didn't "sound different" until I upgraded from a 4-channel Alpine MRV to an ARC XXK. That really opened my eyes, and made me much more interested in amplifier designs.
 
Hi,

Proper farfield speakers have excessive
bass, not treble, listened to nearfield.

The BSC reduced version of
Zaph|Audio - 4" Bargain Mini
and a T amp should work well.

As would the Aura NS3 , going cheap at madisound.
See Zaphs comments here : Zaph|Audio
http://www.zaphaudio.com/archives-19.zip

rgds, sreten.

Zaphs budget version

That's interesting, I assumed that since high frequencies decay more quickly with distance that they would be the issue. What causes them to have excessive bass?
 
If you have the space, Integrated amps like the RA-840 are very very good. Old Rotels do a great job masking evils of cheap speakers. There are lots of other small integrated amps out there. Some very very good. Linn, Naim, Cambridge, Arcam, Creek etc. In just a small power amp, things like the Rotel RB 951 or Adcom 535 , Hafler 120, several Marantz amps are actually quite good. How about an F5 or Zen? I found the Parasound Z3 amps to be very noisy. You just can't put a good supply in a box that small. If it is more than 10 years old, expect to change the main caps.

On my PC, I have a little Chinese DAC/amp that was about $145. Drives my old Tandbergs just fine. But this is just my PC, not my real music source. It is hanging below the monitor out of the way and has a Phones jack. It has the current BB chips in it.
 
If you have the space, Integrated amps like the RA-840 are very very good. Old Rotels do a great job masking evils of cheap speakers. There are lots of other small integrated amps out there. Some very very good. Linn, Naim, Cambridge, Arcam, Creek etc. In just a small power amp, things like the Rotel RB 951 or Adcom 535 , Hafler 120, several Marantz amps are actually quite good. How about an F5 or Zen? I found the Parasound Z3 amps to be very noisy. You just can't put a good supply in a box that small. If it is more than 10 years old, expect to change the main caps.

On my PC, I have a little Chinese DAC/amp that was about $145. Drives my old Tandbergs just fine. But this is just my PC, not my real music source. It is hanging below the monitor out of the way and has a Phones jack. It has the current BB chips in it.

Wow, thanks for all the recommendations! This is exactly what I was looking for. This looks like great quality stuff for the price and there's a ton of it out there from what I'm seeing, I'll be busy for days now. :cheerful:
 
i second the integrated amp suggestions. I have a cambridge audio A1, old version. It is still available here in the UK brand new for 70 pounds. Its a chip amp, but rather good for its price. I got mine used for 30. 25watts is ample for desktop use. I dont know if it would be available in your locale though.
 
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