To be perfectly honest I don't know if I would use any of my current ideas. They are just half baked ramblings with very little thought given to them. However if I was looking for a minimalist approach that has a chance of working I would probably work off post 166.
Do yourself a favour a do a separate thread highlighting the design idea and you should be able to get some sound advice with some basis, I'm currently flying by the seat of my pants and trying to learn on the fly.
Edit:
check this out http://www.linkwitzlab.com/woofer.htm
very similar to my butt crack (lol just chuckling to myself) seriously though it runs along similar lines and the driver arrangement makes better sense.
Do yourself a favour a do a separate thread highlighting the design idea and you should be able to get some sound advice with some basis, I'm currently flying by the seat of my pants and trying to learn on the fly.
Edit:
check this out http://www.linkwitzlab.com/woofer.htm
very similar to my butt crack (lol just chuckling to myself) seriously though it runs along similar lines and the driver arrangement makes better sense.
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By angeling them, as i said, it would be possible to get it out, just ensure that the inner screw-holes are reachable.
...and always have the option to screw of the front baffle to get to the elements.
When i started on the fulltone-baffle i was using the existing front as a reference, where i could adjust the sidewalls just by replacing. I see the biggest issue on the baffle would be the slot, and the size of it, so i guess i start with the back and try out different sizes to see what is the best.
There are several way to get around the issue of accessing the screws.
1. Build a v with a -- top. Something like this -\_/- mount the two drivers to the v-baffle. Slide the whole assembly inside a [] box and put screws in from the side [] <-
2. Build the same box as 1 but glue it up and make it rigid. Have circular holes in both sides to allow fitment of drivers. Once drivers fitted screw on square or round side covers. What I like better about this idea is if you have really long drivers like the ones I just bought TC Sounds Pro 5100 18" Neo Subwoofer Driver 293-674 you could cut a smaller hole in the cover plate and let some of the driver (magnet) hang outside the box. Keeping internal volumes down.
3. Another idea I had was do the same thing with just one driver, use a H box, mount the driver from the back, and taper the front four faces in so the out volume is smaller than the back. Same effect higher out speed than rear.
A simpler way would be to make a regular square box and just make four tapered inserts for the front.
Anyone with fibreglass skills could probably make it as a removable insert allowing fitment of the driver from the front.
Maybe even add some kind of extended baffle plate to the insert?
1. Build a v with a -- top. Something like this -\_/- mount the two drivers to the v-baffle. Slide the whole assembly inside a [] box and put screws in from the side [] <-
2. Build the same box as 1 but glue it up and make it rigid. Have circular holes in both sides to allow fitment of drivers. Once drivers fitted screw on square or round side covers. What I like better about this idea is if you have really long drivers like the ones I just bought TC Sounds Pro 5100 18" Neo Subwoofer Driver 293-674 you could cut a smaller hole in the cover plate and let some of the driver (magnet) hang outside the box. Keeping internal volumes down.
3. Another idea I had was do the same thing with just one driver, use a H box, mount the driver from the back, and taper the front four faces in so the out volume is smaller than the back. Same effect higher out speed than rear.
A simpler way would be to make a regular square box and just make four tapered inserts for the front.
Anyone with fibreglass skills could probably make it as a removable insert allowing fitment of the driver from the front.
Maybe even add some kind of extended baffle plate to the insert?
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I've got nothing specific, but a nice pro 10" seems like it would fit the bill.
How bout the baby version of my woofer?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=294-679
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I looked at those and then talked myself out of them. I was looking for something with a little bit more finesse, but I probably shouldn't be put off by the "Pro" designation.
Cant seem to find a frequency response for them... 4 buy price brings them down to 183 each.
I would not run the 10" with any kind of slot restricting the output. It is running high enough that the slot may 'sound' bad. You can always start with flat baffles for the prototype and add a slotted piece over the front to see if you can hear a problem.
The problem with NOT using a pro driver for the 10" is that you will have a tough time finding a hi-fi driver with a sensitivity high enough to match the other drivers you've got. Don't be scared of the 'pro' thing. A good driver is a good driver regardless of the intended use. In the range you will use one, most any 10" is going to be flat. But if you must see the response, look here:
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/294-679.pdf
Thanks guys for the suggestions I haven't really settled on anything yet, but I am quite keen to hear Goran’s opinion of the AT 10" here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...-ribbon-sequence-three-grand-reference-5.html
Greg if it’s recommended no compressing of the driver for the 10", then I probably wouldn't bother with an upper cabinet, I would probably just do a free air hang like one of the earlier 4 way pics of natehansen66 back in post #44.
Also would mean the tweeter would be further away from a radiating surface.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...-ribbon-sequence-three-grand-reference-5.html
Greg if it’s recommended no compressing of the driver for the 10", then I probably wouldn't bother with an upper cabinet, I would probably just do a free air hang like one of the earlier 4 way pics of natehansen66 back in post #44.
Also would mean the tweeter would be further away from a radiating surface.
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And just run an H or U baffle around the TC 5100? Seems fine to me...
The speakers are due to be delivered tomorrow... So just adding up the number to see what the total cost was.
That $1760 USD purchase (2 x $880) wound up being $2498.06 AU with all the taxes and fees added or $2586 USD.
That works out to be 2586 - 1760 = $826 USD in add ons.
Anyway I was figuring it would come in around $2500 AU, so I'm not surprised by the end bill.
While I wait for the new drivers to arrive I have been busy playing Sketch Up. While the test baffle will probably be quite basic I was looking at what might be possible with a bit of imagination.
Using the slice model spoken about earlier, I could potentially make the sub woofer walls as thick as I want i.e. if I want them to be 4" thick I just leave 8" between outside diameter and inside diameter.
Of course some kind of common sense would need to be applied as I have to move it...
So here they are the latest musings...
That $1760 USD purchase (2 x $880) wound up being $2498.06 AU with all the taxes and fees added or $2586 USD.
That works out to be 2586 - 1760 = $826 USD in add ons.
Anyway I was figuring it would come in around $2500 AU, so I'm not surprised by the end bill.
While I wait for the new drivers to arrive I have been busy playing Sketch Up. While the test baffle will probably be quite basic I was looking at what might be possible with a bit of imagination.
Using the slice model spoken about earlier, I could potentially make the sub woofer walls as thick as I want i.e. if I want them to be 4" thick I just leave 8" between outside diameter and inside diameter.
Of course some kind of common sense would need to be applied as I have to move it...
So here they are the latest musings...
Attachments
Unless the low pass XO is low enough to avoid comb filtering...
Joining them with a panel shouldn't hurt either, but also as long as the diffraction is not objectionable
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