First time OB builder - Page 25 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 5th October 2012, 06:25 PM   #241
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
Alright! Way to go Silent, now you're getting somewhere. Seeing those 12MU mounted like that makes me think it's not necessary at all. This whole backwards mounting is great for woofers, but I think due to the small size of the cone and the shading of the magnet that it will cause more problems for you as regards to radiation than it really solves with 2nd harmonic distortion. I'd personally go with both facing forward. At least that one's an easy switch to make.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th October 2012, 06:34 PM   #242
Toaster is offline Toaster  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: South East England
That's exactly what I was about to say!
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2012, 12:17 AM   #243
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brisvegas
Thanks guys, will fix some of those issues up in first round of modifications.

The 3/4" MDF I used is a bit thick for the mids (not to mention poor time allignment on the woofer).

The 30 degree chamfer on the mids unshrouds them quite nicely, but I think they would be much happier in someting like a 1/2" piece of MDF instead, which I have laying around, or possibly even thinner.

When the dipole tweeters turn up I will move the tweeter and mids to a separate board and step it back from the main board.

Thinking of cutting out a big square so I leave an edge around the 3/4" MDF, step the smaller board back with 4 long bolts.

Seem to have picked up some bass with mounting it on the board (as expected) going to drop the xover point from 300 to 150 as it sounds like there is a tad too much bass (bit to much pronounced drum in the music I am listening to - The Cars) The SPL mix is quite good as no driver seems to be shouting at me, at turn on volume (quite low) each of the drivers sounds quite even.

The tweeter sounds a bit more tinny that before and not quite as natural. But I haven't adjusted the xover just yet to give me chance to evaluate the change.
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2012, 01:24 PM   #244
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brisvegas
Did a bit of cabinet designing today for my next experiment. To protect the driver from accidental damage I have come up with a very simple horn version of the standard H box.

All that had been added are 4 corner braces that will strengthen and turn the front cavity into a octagon, whilst using the 4 existing sides to make up the eight sides, it also gives four convient locations to mount a speaker grill.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Simple Horn.jpg (99.2 KB, 239 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th October 2012, 01:27 PM   #245
puppet is offline puppet  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: The Dells, WI
There you go ... back side too I'd think (grill provisions as well).
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th October 2012, 02:25 AM   #246
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brisvegas
My only concern is the shape of the back of the cone is the reverse of the front, so the rear of the cone is angled towards the walls of the cabinet.

I don't know if this will actually cause any reflection issues if I start crowding the back of the cone. On the front the horn is the same shape as the cone, on the back it is opposite.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rear Options.jpg (111.5 KB, 208 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th October 2012, 05:09 AM   #247
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
Unless you are dealing with flat planar drivers, the rear radiation is never going to be the same anyway....at the frequencies the TC is dealing with there is no problem. They literal do not "see" the extra little obstruction.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th October 2012, 06:45 AM   #248
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brisvegas
Fair enough... Because they would be additonal support pieces I could just build the standard box and simply add them later, which would give me chance to measure with and without them.

Because the box isn't going to be sealed and subject to as much vibrations, how thick does a H box need to be? walls? main driver panel?
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 10:33 AM   #249
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brisvegas
Added one of the Vifa hard paper 10"'s into the baffle today. I know they are fairly useless in their own right but I thought since I had them I would throw one in to see if it can fix up a small hole between the woofer and the 12MU's.

I am only using it between 150Hz and 625Hz and I must say it does a great job of smooting out the bass.

Currently I have the Raal 140-15D AM tweeter covering 2500Hz up
The ScanSpeak 12MU mids between 625Hz and 2500Hz
The Vifa 10" between 150Hz and 625Hz
The Tc Sounds Pro 5100 between 25Hz and 150Hz

The Raal dipoles should be here Monday.
So what does it sound like? I for one thought I would never be happy listening to just one speaker, but it sounds so great it's pleasurable.

If I close my eyes I could almost be fooled into thinking there are several speakers hooked up it just has a spacial quality like nothing I have ever heard before.

When people say dipoles are great for bass I definately know what their talking about now, its like chalk and cheese.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG1056.jpg (106.1 KB, 167 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 04:04 PM   #250
puppet is offline puppet  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: The Dells, WI
You know, your implementation here looks pretty nice Silent. Simple.

I'm not too familiar with the RAAL driver though. I once tried my Heil on a baffle and it destroyed the sound of it. Open air mounting sounds the best with those. Do you have a similar observation with the RAAL? If so, I could see where a guy could modify your arrangement in #249 to limit the baffle @the tweeter/mid area.
Siding the RAAL over (so it's almost plumb with the C/L of the 10" driver) and siding over one of the 12MU's toward the RAAL's bottom edge. Then cut off the waste baffle.

Looking good as is though!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First time subwoofer builder broz Subwoofers 17 28th December 2011 09:09 PM
First time builder hack247.co.uk Multi-Way 0 29th May 2006 08:51 PM
First time builder question MPM Multi-Way 13 1st October 2004 10:52 PM
First time builder, need advice. apetersn Tubes / Valves 26 5th July 2004 10:20 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:55 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2