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#171 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Quote:
On a 20cm radius bend, unless you have specialty industrial grade equipment, getting it to look good will be quite a challenge. The bendy MDF might be the best was to go. P.S: have you thought about the acrylic's resonance? I have no idea what the intrinsic resonance frequency of such a tube would be, but it's a good idea to check it out first. |
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#172 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
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How about 2 of these per side?
Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 ohm 295-472 Nice Qts @ .48 means not a lot eq needed while not being too flappy and resonant. Nice low FS and good price. Too bad they are 4ohms. You would need to use a good Crown or QSC that can handle 2 Ohms or run them in series which is not optimal. EDIT: Just noticed the Mms, 425g! Ouch, if you believe that this makes a difference. For comparison, my B&C is 96g, but much less xmax and higher FS. Last edited by studiotech; 21st September 2012 at 02:56 AM. |
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#173 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
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#174 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
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Quote:
How big is your room? Any idea what kind of spl you like to listen at? |
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#175 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
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Part of the problem is I haven't heard any of the drivers, so I am shooting blind. You have heard the B&C and others have commented on them, giving me some kind of idea of quality.
Just figured that the qts was slightly higher than the NDL and the FS slightly lower. To be honest I think I am in the right ball park, but would nearly prefer someone just tell me what is the best driver to use after factoring in my needs. How loud? loud!, you cant listen to AC/DC any other way ![]() Most of the time I listen to music at quite moderate levels, but occasionally like to crank it up. Room? moving into new premises within the next 6 months so cant really answer that one at the moment but will be shopping with home theatre in mind. |
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#176 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
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OK AC/DC loud and home theater. Man, you need to stick with a single, nice
15-18" on the bottom and just commit to some real sealed subs. It's the best choice IMHO. If you want to make me jealous and be the first guy to do it, buy one of these for the OB, use it like that for a while and then add your subs later. I was very close to working out a deal to get a pair of these for a steal. Damn, that would have been sooooo sweet. It really would put your build over the top considering all of the other top-of-the-line drivers your are shelling out for. Do it do it do it! ![]() Are you sitting down? Here it is: TC Sounds Pro 5100 18" Neo Subwoofer Driver 293-674 |
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#177 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
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With a recomendation like this how can I say no "Did I say crazy, I ment pull your underwear up over your head and have some one punch you in the face."
At 53lbs I can forget trying to mount them on 10mm acrylic. All I can say is get ready to be jealous
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#178 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
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Quote:
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#179 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
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Why bother visting I can just turn it up
![]() If I was to leave these in the OB config, what would I then use for subs? Do I U box these or H box? |
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#180 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FLA
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Quote:
With that much sexy driver to look at, I'd do a flat baffle prototype(heavily reinforced) to see what you get. No sense hiding those things down inside of an H or U. Maybe a wide enough panel to fit the 18" with some inches to spare on either side and some nice swept back wings in the sides to increase path-length while keeping the look relatively narrow. Or a nice rounded corner piece like these: http://www.tapeease.com/4rounds.htm Imagine if StigErik used these guys instead of the 21" he bought. Wow, that would be pricey. Takes my breathe away just thinking about it! |
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