A couple of weeks ago I opened up one of my P363s and discovered that the input wires to the x-over board were not solder in correctly. When I unscrewed and picked up the x-over the red wire dropped off. Only a few strands of wire were soldered through the hole. I decided to replace both input wires with 16 ga. I had to drill the eyelets to fit the larger wire and also soldered the wire to the terminals.
The wires running to the drivers were very short and did not have the room to hard wire them on. I did not have the time to look at the other speaker but plan to do that. Does anyone have a schematic for the x-over? I would like to replace some of those electronic caps with something better.
Can anyone recommend some cheap 100v or so pp caps? The higher voltages take up too much room.
Chuck
The wires running to the drivers were very short and did not have the room to hard wire them on. I did not have the time to look at the other speaker but plan to do that. Does anyone have a schematic for the x-over? I would like to replace some of those electronic caps with something better.
Can anyone recommend some cheap 100v or so pp caps? The higher voltages take up too much room.
Chuck
I suppose you already did them both at this point so can't compare before/after, but if you want to be able to see relative changes in CSD from your cabinet mods, you'll need to measure nearfield, say 1cm from the woofer cone and in the middle of the port exit plane. That's not the right way to see the "real" CSD of the system, but it will give you a peek at what you've been changing and how much, without an anechoic chamber or an outdoor tower.
edit: whoops, 2012 thread. You resurrectors fool me every time!
edit: whoops, 2012 thread. You resurrectors fool me every time!
The Audax Tweeter mentioned here has a 2-3/4" outside diameter, and the poster modified the enclosure to make it fit. My best guess from looking at pictures and doing some guesstimating, that the original tweeter has an outside diameter of around 3", though it is a 3/4" tweeter. You can confirm by measuring it yourself. The Audax is 92dB, and that is important as you don't want an ear splitting tweeter or a lacking tweeter. XO point from mid to tweeter is 3k Hz.
You can also contact Parts Express or Madisound, sometimes they have already provided a replacement for your speaker and can advise the correct one.
Here are some that might do the trick:
+ Goldwood GT-525
+ GRS 1TD1-8
+ Dynavox TD2801XL1-1/8
+ Dayton DC28FS-8
* Madisound carries Audax among others, and can advise a good replacement for the Audax, but their site is not as easy and fast loading as PE's, so I'm not going down that road right now.
Thanks for the reply. The tweeter including the mounting plate is 3-3/8" at the outside edge. Mounting holes are really close to 2-7/8" (center to center).
I went ahead and got this tweeter Sony 1-544-287-11 as a stop gap until I find a better choice.
I came really close to buying this (1-504-900-11) instead because it looked fancier, but it was used and the other was not.
Thanks for the suggestions, taking a look at them now. *Just at a first glance they are in the 4" range, so not sure if they will fit without mods.
I thought about just removing the glue from the original tweeter mounting plate and buying something like these and removing them from their mounts and gluing the nut guts in. We'll see how well the ebay tweeter performs first I guess.
I went ahead and got this tweeter Sony 1-544-287-11 as a stop gap until I find a better choice.
I came really close to buying this (1-504-900-11) instead because it looked fancier, but it was used and the other was not.
Thanks for the suggestions, taking a look at them now. *Just at a first glance they are in the 4" range, so not sure if they will fit without mods.
I thought about just removing the glue from the original tweeter mounting plate and buying something like these and removing them from their mounts and gluing the nut guts in. We'll see how well the ebay tweeter performs first I guess.
Hi guys,
I found this thread and forum when I was looking in google "how to repair infinity p252 speaker"
.
This is what happened:
Recently, I noticed that the sound that came out from the tweeter is not good (some high frequencies are completely cut-off) and it sounds different from the other speaker.
Initially I was thinking that it was a tweeter problem, i tried to look for a genuine replace but no luck.
As far as I know, the tweeter's model is the same as the one installed in the p363 speakers.
Now, after reading this post I have some doubts: is it a tweeter or crossover problem?
I'm very familiar with electronics etc, but I never opened and repaired a speaker.
How can I reach easily the crossover board?
The speaker seems like sealed and the only accesses are through the woofers.
Thank you in advance for your response.
Best regards.
I found this thread and forum when I was looking in google "how to repair infinity p252 speaker"
.This is what happened:
Recently, I noticed that the sound that came out from the tweeter is not good (some high frequencies are completely cut-off) and it sounds different from the other speaker.
Initially I was thinking that it was a tweeter problem, i tried to look for a genuine replace but no luck.
As far as I know, the tweeter's model is the same as the one installed in the p363 speakers.
Now, after reading this post I have some doubts: is it a tweeter or crossover problem?
I'm very familiar with electronics etc, but I never opened and repaired a speaker.
How can I reach easily the crossover board?
The speaker seems like sealed and the only accesses are through the woofers.
Thank you in advance for your response.
Best regards.
Avok, yes, the best way to reach the crossovers will be to remove a woofer.
Do you still need help finding a replacement tweeter?
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Zobsky, I would try adding a few more braces to your enclosures. If you don't mind the appearance, one good way would be to drill 3/4" holes at the same spots on opposite sides and glue in 3/4" hardwood dowels. Also, stiffening and/or damping the front baffle should yield some improvement. Have you tried using a longer port to lower the tuning frequency?
Do you still need help finding a replacement tweeter?
----------------------
Zobsky, I would try adding a few more braces to your enclosures. If you don't mind the appearance, one good way would be to drill 3/4" holes at the same spots on opposite sides and glue in 3/4" hardwood dowels. Also, stiffening and/or damping the front baffle should yield some improvement. Have you tried using a longer port to lower the tuning frequency?
I have replaced caps on over 100 speakers, and used every kind and nearly every brand of capacitors. Here are my findings. Caps sound different, depending on type. Brand of cap seems to matter less than the type of cap. Electrolytics are the most mellow, Mylar is in the middle, and Poly are the most bright. This is probably because Electrolytics have the highest ESR followed by Mylar, and Poly usually have the lowest ESR. of course, Paper In Oil Caps have very very high ESR, and are the most mellow sounding of all. Replacing capacitors in speakers that originally had Electrolytic Caps will make them brighter if you go to Poly. I have seldom if ever heard any difference in Caps from different makers. One Poly Cap seems to sound like another Poly Cap, despite coming from different makers. I once compared a Bennic Poly Cap with a much more expensive Mundorf Supreme Poly Cap, and heard absolutely zero difference.