What is most important when choosing driver?

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Good point to considerer. Better to spend 40.00+ of driver parts than of better caps or extra components. Valid consideration, Starre if you think it will sound better.
Working with a 4" Midrange as a tweeter certainly will not be the standard. But who knows what can be done.
Is your listening room narrow or large?
 
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Going by an online calculator, the CA18RLY will work well in a 25ltr box (QTC = 0.7) with an f3 of 63Hz.

Someone over a the PE forum said that their old AR18 has an f3 of 62Hz but because of the high'ish Q design (QTC = 1 IIRC), they had a steep roll-off. I owned some AR18s a while back and thought the bass was really good, so the CA18RLY in a 25ltr box should be better (more accurate and go a bit deeper) but have less authority being a smaller driver.

IIRC the Seas 27TFF (or was it the 25TFF?) was used in the Proac Studio 100. I used to own those speakers and I thought they had a nice, crisp and clean treble.

With the crossover done right, I think that could make a nice combination.
 
I had a feeling Troels Gravesen had used this bass unit in one of his designs, which here uses a SEAS metal tweeter which is not to everyone's taste:
CA18RLY/22TAF-G

The SEAS 27 TFF is the simplest high end tweeter SEAS do. Like the TFFC but no back chamber, hence a couple of dB less sensitivity. Should be a doddle to slot into any of Troel's typical third order filters for the 27 TFFC with a resistance adjustment.

Third order filters usually have capacitors in the ratio of 1:3. Where they are heavily attenuated by a resistor at the input, the capacitor values become more similar and the inductor gets smaller.
 
Inductor: I used that calculator for CA18RLY and it said it was fine either way. Do you think the crossover for CA18RLY and 27TFF need to be complicated/expensive?
The CALCULATOR is maybe in the limit. I gave you this one but use others as well and test before a final decision. You can do an interchangeable small panel with the port (BR vs. sealed) and the speaker posts into the back panel.
The drivers look nice for a not very expensive crossover. But as all the initial designs, made by you, with the extra costs and time of testing, you will buy different parts/components to test different values and then calibrate. That's not cheap if you consider added shipping charges for duplicates (components of different values). But I will not considerer a big difference or expensive if you need, say as an example, a 3. order for the tweeter instead of a second order (one more cap). Only when you have complex drivers/crossovers out of the ordinary. Your drivers look great to start with. Are you going to measure them or using the frd/zma's for the crossover?:)

To look at, someone is using here an example of 2. order crossover with TFFC and Focal with that tweeter. H0831-06 27TFF
DIY Granite Speakers with Seas G17REX/P and 27 TFFC Drivers
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1055&t=29957680
 
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I will probably start with listening to the raw drivers on a big open baffle and get a microphone measuring them. Later on trying with a test box sealed vs reflex. I have no more planning than that so far. Now I am just pleased I have selected drivers and beeing on my way with it.
 
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