I use polyswitches for anything that will be subjected to abuse. They work very well and will have minimal effect on the speaker when working normally.
Tony.
Tony.
Good news. Imaging is good because the phase is nicely aligned. 
What you call treble is a bit vague, of course. We have been guessing on the tweeter. It's that 2-5kHz region to align here. All the metallic harmonics and sibilance. Dire Straits "Water of Love" and Paul Simon's "Take me to the mardi gras" are good tests. If you are overly bright, the trumpets in the Paul Simon piece sound too loud and intrusive. But you want some energy there.
You're main options to increase treble energy are to drop the woofer capacitor from 15uF to 10uF which boosts the 2-4kHz range and should sound musical, or increase the tweeter capacitor from 3.3uF to 4.7uF. Changing the 3.3 resistor in the tweeter attenuator to 2.2 will boost the very top end.
What you call treble is a bit vague, of course. We have been guessing on the tweeter. It's that 2-5kHz region to align here. All the metallic harmonics and sibilance. Dire Straits "Water of Love" and Paul Simon's "Take me to the mardi gras" are good tests. If you are overly bright, the trumpets in the Paul Simon piece sound too loud and intrusive. But you want some energy there.
You're main options to increase treble energy are to drop the woofer capacitor from 15uF to 10uF which boosts the 2-4kHz range and should sound musical, or increase the tweeter capacitor from 3.3uF to 4.7uF. Changing the 3.3 resistor in the tweeter attenuator to 2.2 will boost the very top end.
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I don't think I want to change the woofer components, they sounds great. Also I did hear some highs that Morels do not have.
I'd like to brighten up the tweeter just a bit.
Going to order some more parts Monday.
Sorry this is so painfull, never did anything with resistors (been using L pads); and hence the project.
I'd like to brighten up the tweeter just a bit.
Going to order some more parts Monday.
Sorry this is so painfull, never did anything with resistors (been using L pads); and hence the project.
You'd be surprised what a difference a smaller woofer capacitor can make. It's subtle really, but you gain MUSICALITY. Which is hard to describe, but the whole lower range can gain an effortless nice and clear acoustic.
In your case, the woofer rolloff is probably quite high, and it overlaps with the tweeter, so it can make a couple of dB difference around 2-4kHz. There's a sweet spot that you can HEAR with woofers.
In fact, I've got to log out and do something similar to mine. 15uF is just not doing it. I need 10uF.
In your case, the woofer rolloff is probably quite high, and it overlaps with the tweeter, so it can make a couple of dB difference around 2-4kHz. There's a sweet spot that you can HEAR with woofers.
In fact, I've got to log out and do something similar to mine. 15uF is just not doing it. I need 10uF.
I did try these boxes once before with a different crossover and tweeter, they were terrible and ultimately gave one pair away (might have to ask for that pair back - or rebuild a second pair)
Easy to hear the crossover point 1,700 - 2,000.
If I make any changes, I'll use a toggles for AB testing.
For a small speaker, they have a bigger than life sound.
Easy to hear the crossover point 1,700 - 2,000.
If I make any changes, I'll use a toggles for AB testing.
For a small speaker, they have a bigger than life sound.
I have to admit that I can fall flat on my backside sometimes. I'd forgotten that you are using a 4 ohm woofer, so 15uF and 2 ohms is probably exactly right.
What you have done that is so neat, is got the time alignment right:
We had a good old diyaudio disagreement about series crossovers here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/206843-sreten-speakerman-go-series-xos-57.html
All you gotta do is get the highly respected Vifa XT25 tweeter sounding right. Don't discount using amplifier tone controls, because 3 dB here or there makes a world of difference, but you are doing VERY WELL, IMO.
What you have done that is so neat, is got the time alignment right:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
We had a good old diyaudio disagreement about series crossovers here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/206843-sreten-speakerman-go-series-xos-57.html
All you gotta do is get the highly respected Vifa XT25 tweeter sounding right. Don't discount using amplifier tone controls, because 3 dB here or there makes a world of difference, but you are doing VERY WELL, IMO.
Can not find the matching pair of boxes; that would have been nice for AB testing. There is a pyramid pair that is close in size/shape; need to fit the tweeter in.
What do you think about dropping the woofer coil to .7 and keeping the rest the same? That's only about 6' of magnet wire.
Making the XO board on a 6" x 8" very thin box; will set the speaker on top of it.
What do you think about dropping the woofer coil to .7 and keeping the rest the same? That's only about 6' of magnet wire.
Making the XO board on a 6" x 8" very thin box; will set the speaker on top of it.
I just ran that past the Visaton BoxSim, and that looks very good. Phase should be just about spot on assuming you're probably not quite exactly time aligned there.
You can swap the tweeter 3.3uF for a 4.7uF if you want 2dB more energy in the 2-4kHz range as I think you have realised. Reducing the woofer resistor to 1 ohm will affect phase (and imaging) more than anything, and I think you are happy with that.
So yes, I think you are there now. What do you think of the Vifa tweeter? How does it differ from the morel?
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The vifa is a great replacement for the Morel and wayyyyy less $$. The Vifa seems to go a little higher, I guess because there's no ferro fluid in the Vifa (less to worry about with no ferro fluid).
Not to get off track...I did replace ferro fluid in few older Morels; not easy, they are not made to take apart.
The triangle speakers need some TLC, the drivers were routed way to deep, so fixing that now with wood rings.
Added a 1mf to the 3.3cap (oak pair), which are playing nicely, there is slightly more high end; don't think I need to go any larger.
(I do have 4.7 caps, will try that with the next xo).
The vifa is a great replacement for the Morel and wayyyyy less $$. The Vifa seems to go a little higher, I guess because there's no ferro fluid in the Vifa (less to worry about with no ferro fluid).
Not to get off track...I did replace ferro fluid in few older Morels; not easy, they are not made to take apart.
The triangle speakers need some TLC, the drivers were routed way to deep, so fixing that now with wood rings.
Added a 1mf to the 3.3cap (oak pair), which are playing nicely, there is slightly more high end; don't think I need to go any larger.
(I do have 4.7 caps, will try that with the next xo).
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I tried the 4.7 cap on the tweeter, gesh thought I did something wrong; very shhyyyy/whispery and bass was not as strong.
I replaced the 4.7uf with 4.0uf caps and they went back to the way they sounded yesterday (very nice/balanced).
Very surprised there was a huge difference with a small change.
I replaced the 4.7uf with 4.0uf caps and they went back to the way they sounded yesterday (very nice/balanced).
Very surprised there was a huge difference with a small change.
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