Celestion Ditton 44 sounding muddy - Page 4 - diyAudio
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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 9th June 2012, 11:09 PM   #31
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Hey Steve,

You know what, they do. I don't have any wood glue on me, but I will have to try that out!

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 13th July 2012, 05:57 PM   #32
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Okay, so I've made some more progress on this issue. Took me a little while to getting around to it, but I did! lol

Anyways, so I put the multimeter on all drivers. Midrange tests at 6 ohm for both, tweeter tests at 4.8ohms for both, and bass driver tests at 4.6ohms for both. A little higher than what they should be but they aren't blown at the least.

I've also noticed its the left speaker (so just one of them) that is really having the muddy sound now. The other one, the tweeter plays quite a bit louder than the other one. I'm starting to think it's the capacitors on the crossovers failing. What do you guys think?
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Old 13th July 2012, 11:38 PM   #33
tvrgeek is offline tvrgeek  United States
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Glad to hear a set still out there. My tweeters de-laminated after only about 7 years. Re-placed them with Seas. It would be fun to use that woofer and mid in a modern cabinet with modern tweeters. ( I think mine were Mk 1.)

If you have never done any soldering before, best to ask around your town and offer a pint or two as a bribe. It is really easy if someone shows you and shows you the correct equipment. You can make a mess with the wrong stuff.

Oh yea, vote for the caps too. By the size, they have to be electrolytic.
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Old 14th July 2012, 01:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrgeek View Post
Glad to hear a set still out there. My tweeters de-laminated after only about 7 years. Re-placed them with Seas. It would be fun to use that woofer and mid in a modern cabinet with modern tweeters. ( I think mine were Mk 1.)

If you have never done any soldering before, best to ask around your town and offer a pint or two as a bribe. It is really easy if someone shows you and shows you the correct equipment. You can make a mess with the wrong stuff.

Oh yea, vote for the caps too. By the size, they have to be electrolytic.
Changing caps on a crossover is easy work I've already done it on a set of IMF TLS 80's and it turned out great, so I have no problems doing it on these ones.

They are indeed electrolytic, with a couple being film type. I'm going to get replacements from Falcon Acoustics and go from there..

Thanks for the reply!
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Old 14th July 2012, 09:04 AM   #35
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Default ferro fluid tweeter?

just a little thought that occurred to me. Does this speaker use a ferrofluid tweeter? If so, maybe drying out of the fluid could change the sound of the tweeter. Just a thought, maybe nothing though. I have also seen it recommended to add a series R when swapping lytics for MKP, to approximate the ESR. I couldnt say for certain but perhaps 0.1 to 0.5 ohm is worth a try?
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Old 14th July 2012, 10:11 AM   #36
tvrgeek is offline tvrgeek  United States
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T2000 was not ferofluid. Good guess though.
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Old 14th July 2012, 01:14 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by mondogenerator View Post
just a little thought that occurred to me. Does this speaker use a ferrofluid tweeter? If so, maybe drying out of the fluid could change the sound of the tweeter. Just a thought, maybe nothing though. I have also seen it recommended to add a series R when swapping lytics for MKP, to approximate the ESR. I couldnt say for certain but perhaps 0.1 to 0.5 ohm is worth a try?
I would do that, but I think for this crossover going for original replacements is best. That's what I found with my IMF's. The crossover might not be as complicated but, I don't mind doing the crossover cap replacement 30 years down the road. Here's what is on there:

24MFD 50V Low Loss Electrolytic ELCAP
72MFD 50V Electrolytic ELCAP
6MFD 50V Low Loss Electrolytic ELCAP

Then there are 4 green caps, I think these are film:

0.68uF 160V
1.5uF 160V
3.3uF 160V
4.7uF 160V

I think the ESR rating is what is important with the ELCAP's. Also noting that some are low loss. I can get replacement ALCAP's which are direct replacements, however maybe if I can source them out cheaper somewhere else that would be nice, but I'm definitely leaning towards the ALCAP's.

Last edited by jeffrey88; 14th July 2012 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 14th July 2012, 06:49 PM   #38
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haha ok. Im not a fan of the can, i have to say. But at least they seem like the better of the many generic horrors you can find, then im fairly sure they will perform as you hope. To be honest, i mentioned it because i thought you were replacing the lytics with MKP lol.....i wasnt very awake lol

on your choice of Erse coils, i have some 12ga Alphacore here, darn nice looking. Fairly expensive, but i dont know if they are around anymore, or how the price compares. Maybe its worth a look?
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Last edited by mondogenerator; 14th July 2012 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 14th July 2012, 06:58 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by mondogenerator View Post
haha ok. Im not a fan of the can, i have to say. But at least they seem like the better of the many generic horrors you can find, then im fairly sure they will perform as you hope. To be honest, i mentioned it because i thought you were replacing the lytics with MKP lol.....i wasnt very awake lol

on your choice of Erse coils, i have some 12ga Alphacore here, darn nice looking. Fairly expensive, but i dont know if they are around anymore, or how the price compares. Maybe its worth a look?
Hmm is replacing the coils necessary? They should be OK, shouldn't they?
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Old 14th July 2012, 08:04 PM   #40
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Coils are fine. Don't touch. See how you like it when repaired.
I did a totally different grill cloth by framing a sheet of 1/2 inch thick felt. This did wonders for the imaging and diffraction. I never loved the tweeters. Much better ones are out there not, but the mid and woofer were great drivers. Some internal cabinet work could help with resonances. The front and rear are coupled by the mid chamber. Clever. If I remember, foam stuffing. It has been a long time. Mine were teak and had about 50 coats of oil on them. Very nice.
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