oliv928,
You have a lot to read in the thread bjorno it's linking.
bjorno, to help oliv928 a little, I think you said on post #5 on your link, that a T-TQWT (~73 L) is the better option for a sub. From your experience is better than a BR? My simulator says it's a better choice, together with BR, for this driver, being both good options.
You have a lot to read in the thread bjorno it's linking.
bjorno, to help oliv928 a little, I think you said on post #5 on your link, that a T-TQWT (~73 L) is the better option for a sub. From your experience is better than a BR? My simulator says it's a better choice, together with BR, for this driver, being both good options.
thank You guys for your help. It is very nice of You. As an information, here is the typ of amplifier I want to use with the sub system. I give You this data because I am not 100% sure it is considered as active amp. Also, keep in mind that i want to use two bass enclosures (one L one R), so that, by putting the Philips speakerson them, I will have a classical look of big 80's speaker. That's why I will use only one channel of each stereo amp.
I went to that design, after recommendation of a french guy. He told me I could not have correct impedance on the system with passive filters. Also it will give me the possibility to adjust level of bass with the amp gain control knob (and cross freq), which seems to be a good comfort for a first project.
I will read the thread you linked to me with a lot of interest.
Thanks again.
I went to that design, after recommendation of a french guy. He told me I could not have correct impedance on the system with passive filters. Also it will give me the possibility to adjust level of bass with the amp gain control knob (and cross freq), which seems to be a good comfort for a first project.
I will read the thread you linked to me with a lot of interest.
Thanks again.
Attachments
Hi All
Have a look at the submitted new BR simulations for this tread original Driver= Phillips AD12200-W8 and compare with the new Mivoc-AW3000 BR simulation.
IMO the Phillips driver should work well in a BR but the Mivoc is IME easy to get sounding with bad 'Ported sound tails'.
Added more suggestions for the Phillips driver(s)..
b
Attachments
bjorno is simulating a BR (bass-reflex enclosure) with 64L. (I guess... just taking in what he's doing.)
You originally were venting the idea of 76L at f3=28Hz on post #11, so that's not very far back.
In the lautsprechershop.de website they show an example of a BR,
In this case port is long almost 30 cm (27cm Lenght/9.6cm Diam.). And it doesn't provide for adequate speed of air (>17m/s). Are you going to use a circular port? It's not a problem with speed of air in the limit at max. SPL.
Speed of air 18.5 m/s for 111.9 dB with 1 speaker/1 m. Only if you are using your sub always at max. level.
Well, I think You are wrong. bjorno recomend 51L. So it is different with my 76L. If bjorno find the real best solution I would probably go with this volume. But if larger Vol gives better bass sound I can make it also. Or something in between ?
I will probably go with tubular vent. I won't play it at max level.
Thank You
When I mix all that figures I have simulated in winIsd and Bowsim and could go for :
BR V=60L f3=34Hz
Then dimensions could be :
H=66mm W=40 D=30
Vents : Why not 2 circular vents ? Then d=4.7cm L=11.29cm for mach=0.10
Do You think it could sound well ? What about dimensions proportions ( for resonance problems ) , max excursions on the AW3000 , and Vents choice ?
Thank You very much
BR V=60L f3=34Hz
Then dimensions could be :
H=66mm W=40 D=30
Vents : Why not 2 circular vents ? Then d=4.7cm L=11.29cm for mach=0.10
Do You think it could sound well ? What about dimensions proportions ( for resonance problems ) , max excursions on the AW3000 , and Vents choice ?
Thank You very much
I also try a freeware 3D design to refine the proportions of all to prepare and carpentry. The only one I Locate FreeCAD is. It is super easy to use and comprehensive, but rather buggy, which ultimately makes use very painful to go through the layout of the boards. Do you know one by chance?
The total vent surface would be only 1/14 of the driver surface, that's at least factor 2 too small. You better use two 7 cm vents, length 26 cm. Choose the depth of the cabinet accordingly (35 cm or more).
Usually people disregard proportion for subs.
If you want to use it, there are here some links:
1. Proportions (in French) just use the calculator in metric at the beginning of the page (is just numbers you don't need translation).
Proportions des enceintes
2. Look at this calculator for final volume (dimensions of loudspeaker) and the related thickness of the wood (metric/liters/net): tools, calculators/volume calculator.
Strassacker: Speaker Building, Components
If you want to use it, there are here some links:
1. Proportions (in French) just use the calculator in metric at the beginning of the page (is just numbers you don't need translation).
Proportions des enceintes
2. Look at this calculator for final volume (dimensions of loudspeaker) and the related thickness of the wood (metric/liters/net): tools, calculators/volume calculator.
Strassacker: Speaker Building, Components
thank You. i was trying to use the PetoinDominique tables. Difficult.
By the way, this is not a sub but : two bass enclosures that would fit under my Philips 22RH speakers.
Now I wonder if I could make a complete 3way columns set, by puting the two Philips Speakers out of the Philips 20L closed box and mount them in the new columns. In this configuration the system would be :
column with : Bass sPk (MIVOC AW3000) , Medium (Philips AD8066), Tweet (Philips Tw). Integrate amplifier/filter to drive the bass chassis and filter the Med and tweet.
Is it possible to change the initial project with this new update ?
I am trying calculations to optimise FB choice regarding volume, proportions and vent lenght. 30<Fb<38. It is said that the lowest Fb is, the best HiFi sound is. Correct ?
By the way, this is not a sub but : two bass enclosures that would fit under my Philips 22RH speakers.
Now I wonder if I could make a complete 3way columns set, by puting the two Philips Speakers out of the Philips 20L closed box and mount them in the new columns. In this configuration the system would be :
column with : Bass sPk (MIVOC AW3000) , Medium (Philips AD8066), Tweet (Philips Tw). Integrate amplifier/filter to drive the bass chassis and filter the Med and tweet.
Is it possible to change the initial project with this new update ?
I am trying calculations to optimise FB choice regarding volume, proportions and vent lenght. 30<Fb<38. It is said that the lowest Fb is, the best HiFi sound is. Correct ?
Why not.
Usually the mid box is about the same size as the woofer/sub front baffle.
Having said that, the tweeter will be at ear height or between the mid and tweeter.
Then, with this dimension you have the height from the floor.
Then for last you make it as deep as you need to have your Vb right for the sub driver + ports and bracing using the Volume Calculator from post #31.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/cyclop.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-NEXT.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-D.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-Accu.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
Usually the mid box is about the same size as the woofer/sub front baffle.
Having said that, the tweeter will be at ear height or between the mid and tweeter.
Then, with this dimension you have the height from the floor.
Then for last you make it as deep as you need to have your Vb right for the sub driver + ports and bracing using the Volume Calculator from post #31.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/cyclop.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-NEXT.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-D.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-Accu.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
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