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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Auckland NZ
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Following on from the thread linked below I would like to build a new set of active 3-ways.
![]() http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/212743-old-project-active-3-way-update-rebuild-replace.html These can be based on a proven design or completely new. I already have two Elliott sound P09 crossovers that can be modified to suit the new speaker - they are currently set at 300Hz and 1700Hz. The speakers will be for a largish lounge and will be used as day to day speakers. They will be used for all types of music and will be also used for movies. Budget would be around $500 for the drivers including shipping. Any idea's on components/designs are welcome. The cabenet can be any size winthin reason, they need not upset Lisa. ![]() I was playing around with a couple of ideas yesterday. This combination seem like good value and look like they will play nicely togther. I may be wrong though. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1040 2 x http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-030 http://www.hasaudio.co.nz/seas-prestige-ca26re4x-h1316-paper-cone-woofer-p-392.html I made a quick render of a cabinet design idea yesterday - 1600 tall, 400 deep and 350 wide:
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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I like your woofer. SEAS Prestige CA26RE4X (H1316) 10" is good in 55 L.
http://www.hasaudio.co.nz/products_p..._datasheet.pdf See other WMTM for ideas. Zaph|Audio - SB12.3 3-Way Tower Madisound Speaker Store M130 Woofer H1211-06 27TDF Hiquphon OWI (OW1) dome tweeter features |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
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the SEAS CA18RLY would make a good sounding mid (& easy to cross over), & SEAS make good tweeters....
__________________
Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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very tight budget for such big project
that you have the cossover ofcourse helps why use two mids ? and why exactly those drivers ? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
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im not sure how important it is or you, or what else is factored
here is the pdf for your chosen woofer http://www.seas.no/images/stories/pr..._datasheet.pdf note it has less linier and max excursion compared to this woofer http://www.seas.no/images/stories/pr..._datasheet.pdf just pointing it out incase you didnt know |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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The Seas CA26RFX has a better low end and will need a bigger box a. 71 L, and less 0.5 dB SPL.
If we are going to make a list here with everyone mentioning a different driver then, the SEAS CA22RNX has a better low end (F3=32 Hz) but less SPL and needs a box of VB~90 L. In this case the SPL is going to be tight together with the (2x) mids chosen and it's attenuation or the doubling of woofers for that effect. |
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#7 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Auckland NZ
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Quote:
The zaph audio page was a good read! MTM for the top half worth while? Thanks for your suggestions on the drivers - the M130 looked to be good value. ![]() How much do the OW1's tend to go for? Quote:
Thanks for pointing out the CA18RLY. Do the seas sound much better than the cheaper drivers on parts express? the cheaper peerless or dayton woofers for example. Quote:
I was looking at aura's as mids because they seemed to be very good value with the response plot appearing very flat - I figured this would be helpful with my steep electronic crossovers. I already have a pair of the vifa tweeters and the response plot seemed fairly flat as well. The I picked the seas 10" because it can be found locally - When buying anything over about 6" I seem to end up paying more in shipping than on drivers. There was no reason in particular to go with two mids, I have seen a few mtm designs lately and thought two may be a good idea. The way I have them may not be ideal. I am very open to new driver, cabinet and layout options. I can stretch the budget a little if needed. Quote:
I only selected the CA26RE4X to try and stay on budget. Would I really need the extra excursion at normal listening levels? |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
your 6" might be better than I first thought, but I dont know 5" might sound better but a 6" would ususally play louder its never easy ![]() btw, might be worth to have look at ScanSpeak discovery drivers |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
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Quote:
the CA26RE4X looks as if it uses the same motor as the CA22RNX, shockingly lazy in my opinion and the fact that the CA26RE4X is 1db more efficent, wont really make much difference, especially with baffle step and room gain... and enclosure |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
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Quote:
Your box sim should show that for you. Best to let some one who knows more provide there imput. I thought i would point it out because I chose it for my current design because it just looks like it will be better but my box is 90l and im tuning to 27.5hz. Im not sure which driver is best for a smaller box and/or higher tuning. Someone else should know. Last edited by WaVeInFoRm; 21st May 2012 at 01:01 PM. |
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