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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 15th May 2012, 10:11 PM   #1
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Default First DIY Build help. 3-way floor-stander.

Dayton Audio DC25T-8 1" Titanium Dome Tweeter 275-045

Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" Classic Woofer 295-310

Goldwood GM-85/8 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 8 Ohm 280-115

Hey Guys, new to the forums. I plan on building my first set of DIY speakers, Actually by the time i build these over the summer my first DIY will have been built because I take a DIY audio class at my school. Im only 16 so my budget is pretty small. Around $250 for a pair, including crossover. My main concern is knowing if that these parts will work together in the box i have constructed. I plan on using 1 tweeter, 1 midrange, and 2 woofers for each speaker.

Here are the speakers:

Tweeter:
Dayton Audio DC25T-8 1" Titanium Dome Tweeter 275-045

Woofers:
Dayton Audio DC200-8 8" Classic Woofer 295-310

Midrange:
Goldwood GM-85/8 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 8 Ohm 280-115

photo.jpg
(if you can't read the dimensions they are 12x16x46 (inches))

Also I prefer Bass-Heavy Music, Mostly Hip Hop, but i dont want the bass to drown out everything else. So I Prefer mostly Bass, but not too much. The room i will be listening in, is 15' by 15' (Ft.).
So my question is, Will these speakers work together and work well together in this box? Any tips and changes that will give me a better experience would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Elias318; 15th May 2012 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 16th May 2012, 12:35 AM   #2
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You need to build the box to suit the drivers, download Unibox UniBox - Unified Box Model for Loudspeaker Design - Kristian Ougaard
to work out required cabinet volume;
I'd go for a better midrange driver, the one you've chosen isn't very good.
perhaps this:Dayton Audio RS100T-8 4" Reference Woofer Truncated Frame 295-338
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 16th May 2012, 12:59 AM   #3
Agrippa is offline Agrippa  United States
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First, I would recommend looking up some proven designs. I will include links at the end. Then pick one that works. You could just through some speaker drivers together with a store bought cross over but that would not sound good. Frankly, I(we) in the DIY boards wouldn't want you to do that. You can have some nice speakers for what you want to spend.
Second, many people want lots of bass. That does not mean it is accurate. What they usually mean is bloated/boomy bass. That is fine. Take not that a really well done set of speakers will give you good bass and in many cases reveal things you have never noticed. I would spend about half on a nice set of speakers and then get a sub.

Speaker Projects Gallery,Speaker Design Goals, Project Materials, Enclosure Assembly, Speaker Project Photos and More, Submitted By Parts Express Customers. look at some of these. The woodies might fit your style nicely.
TriTrix MTM TL Speaker Kit Components Only Pair 300-700 a nice kit and cheap... It will put out more bass than you think. Curt is a top notch designer. And you would have enough money left over to build your self a sub.
HTGuide Forum - Missions Accomplished! lots of proven finished designs
Zaph|Audio some really nice stuff. Some of his designs are cheap. you would be hard pressed to find a better designer
DIY Loudspeaker Projects Troels Gravesen fun high end stuff. Most of it is out of your range.

Subs
Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer 264-854
I have built 3 subs with 2 of these in each. I used it in a horn configuration very much like this DECWARE's Wicked-One Horn Subwoofer
I sold all 3. Head crushing lows.

Remember, a cheap good design properly executed will beat an expensive pile of parts any day.
Have fun
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Old 16th May 2012, 01:52 AM   #4
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HI , I would investigate more on the emotional side that brings to DIY something .
As you said ,lots of bass but not too much ...or tomorrow it can be a well defined treble or a powerful midrange . So you may discuss of it in a Psychology class or an Advertisement one , if you think that you've got the product that satisfies the requests .
Usually , speakers aren't done on a budget . Because you want music and not damaged ears and brains . Usually , the ear and the brain (mostly ) accommodate themselves if the level of expectancy is not gained : the music senses go back to bed , as they have been alerted but not amused , so they refuse to hear more .
Basically , you'll have to control the resonance of the woofer , and then to make all the speakers sound into one voice , so knowing how to control them by the mean of a crossover ( also active ) is strongly 'urged'
In the end you'll just be thinking of efficiency and sensitivity of each speaker in each band , so bass may be just the 40-80 Hz band that has the same importance of , say , 9000-13 KHz . Psychologically maybe not , also physically ...who knows ...
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Old 16th May 2012, 02:08 AM   #5
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re:"lots of bass but not too much ' - I like this too, in practical terms for me it means close to full baffle step correction (4-6dB), so in the final system design, the woofer will need to be this much more sensitive than the mids.
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 16th May 2012, 02:38 AM   #6
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I like the introductory part : ' I'm new to the forum and I'm 16 , and I want to build a set of speakers'
As forums may be the new way of communicating...but 'right here, right now' never works .
And woofers .... Really , do they have to be more sensitive ??
That is achieved by doubling the number ! But you reduce the impedance , and the amplifier may 'dislike ' it .
I'm currently following on a Forum ( italian , yes .. ) two projects . One includes two Dayton woofers , and is a WMTW very tall ...well , it has also a Motorola piezo to help the large dome tweeter ; one woofer placed near the floor and the other near the ceiling , to take major control of room modes .
The other project uses a Monacor dual coil .
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Old 16th May 2012, 03:19 AM   #7
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re:'That is achieved by doubling the number ! " - or you pad down the mid, or choose your drivers with appropriate sensitivities in the first place, or bi-amp ....
in audio, there's usually more than one way to skin any particular cat....
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 16th May 2012, 04:30 AM   #8
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Yes...indeed ( I KNOW you are interested in the tall WMTW project ,Pete )
the tall project features a ( Rod Elliot Sound Westhost ....) 2-way electronic crossover for the wf section and the mid-tw-stw . centered at about 250 Hz ,it's a 12 dB slope ( ? ) but different electrical crossover points for the necessity of finding the right overlap between the woofer section and mid , the mid being a Ciare PM 160 ( pro ) and the tw a PT 383 ( mid-hi sensitivity , it is 'pro' classified indeed it's a dome for home ). The two Dayton DC 250 ( or 200 ?? ) work each in a 40 l box with bass reflex port , and they are placed above and beyond the central mid-tw-st unit ...well : the guy who carries out the project did a single tall panel with all the holes in it
the midrange has an inclined back plane : that is the new 'discovery' on how to kill spurious frequencies ...

For me , that is an extreme displacement of forces , also the two 200 W for each channel amps in the count , for a small apartment room , with low ceilings and stabilized furniture . But OP wanted to have good bass , as he knew the sound of the bass being a bass player for hobby ....
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Old 16th May 2012, 04:39 AM   #9
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re:'I KNOW you are interested in the tall WMTW project ,Pete ' - I'd love a pair of speakers with 2x 15" drivers per side (just because it would look cool)... if only I had the room, I'm already falling over too many smaller boxes already...
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Old 16th May 2012, 05:09 AM   #10
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So , I would say to Elias to start with the drivers two by two
and to conceive the term 'floorstand' as a typical functional term , i.e. it has to guarantee the right tweeter-to-hear-height and the cabinet must contain all the loudspeakers ,crossover ,terminals ...which is just a definition of a product
in a commercial way of thinking , where the buyer wants a box
to handle ...indeed little boxes are practical , and they do better compared to big boxes in room positioning , which is determining for the final sound ....
And I said 'two by two' as yesterday I was listening...well , they did their running in , the mid and the tweeter alone ...guess what ? Box for the woofer , or better , the thing supposed to support the woofer and the rest and determining the major important front wave , still in construction .
It is a floor stander !! What else on Earth doesn't stand on the floor???
Well , acoustic waves ...but air is still subjected by gravity ! No , it's a gas , it's compressed ,by gravity and all the universe
So ...it's a 'world' with its own laws ? There's freedom and new way of thinking ? No , it's just music , different language if you know what i mean
Hey , stop ! I just wanted to hear loud , plenty of bass ,enough power not to disturb the neighbors .
So , add a subwoofer ! It has adjustable gain !
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