Thanks i am changing my mid to Fostex 6.5
Madisound Speaker Store
also just to ask can i use any 15-18 woofer to create a H Frame wubwoofer.. as i saw some ncie subwoofer though used running cheap on ebay can i use those...
Also thinking to first do the run with
Subwoofer with Hframe and Fostex full range speaker and later add tweeter...is that a good idea
Your setup!
The only problem that might present itself as I see is the reflections caused by mounting the mid and tweet on a large flat surface board. As you go up in frequency the drivers need less and less flat surface. Flat mounting surface causes reflections and it can be clearly seen in 3d waterfall displays. The ideal would be an arc curved surface or no surface at all especially for the tweeter. The woofer is the only driver that needs baffling and it needs to be up off the floor which causes reflections at least 24 inches or more off the floor. Ray Hughes
The only problem that might present itself as I see is the reflections caused by mounting the mid and tweet on a large flat surface board. As you go up in frequency the drivers need less and less flat surface. Flat mounting surface causes reflections and it can be clearly seen in 3d waterfall displays. The ideal would be an arc curved surface or no surface at all especially for the tweeter. The woofer is the only driver that needs baffling and it needs to be up off the floor which causes reflections at least 24 inches or more off the floor. Ray Hughes
Thanks for input i am trying to do something like DIY blackzilla...i am gonna keep the mids at around 90 cm from the woofer like close to 32 inches...
my question is can i use a used subwoofer from ebay it can bring some savings..
This woofer has an interesting Qts..
of around .30 which makes it very adaptable to Thiel-Small vented box parameters. Don't know if it's efficiency rating matches your mid and tweet. Don't know if it's in your price range. For over a c note,there is a 15 inch with a cast frame that is ideal for transmission line baffles in the same company web site. Ray Hughes
MCM Audio Select 12'' Dual Voice Coil Woofer | 55-1465 (551465) | MCM Audio Select
of around .30 which makes it very adaptable to Thiel-Small vented box parameters. Don't know if it's efficiency rating matches your mid and tweet. Don't know if it's in your price range. For over a c note,there is a 15 inch with a cast frame that is ideal for transmission line baffles in the same company web site. Ray Hughes
MCM Audio Select 12'' Dual Voice Coil Woofer | 55-1465 (551465) | MCM Audio Select
The 15 inch
MCM Audio Select 15'' Die Cast Professional Woofer - 400W RMS 8ohm | 55-1880 (551880) | MCM Audio Select
but requires a 10 cu ft transmission line box with a 9ft folded line. Ray Hughes
MCM Audio Select 15'' Die Cast Professional Woofer - 400W RMS 8ohm | 55-1880 (551880) | MCM Audio Select
but requires a 10 cu ft transmission line box with a 9ft folded line. Ray Hughes
All passive around 100hz on GW and full range with 2R series on 12", 2.7uf for the tweeter.
here are the order list
So from all the input i am initially going only Full range and a subwoofer..
Below is the list i will be ordering...Currently i have a B&K reference 200.2 2 channel amp already which will power subwoofer...
Active XO
This will power mid
2 channel stereo Class D amp
Fostex
Goldwood GW-1858 18
once little settled i will add Neo tweeter on top of this...
Any inputs or suggestion...
So from all the input i am initially going only Full range and a subwoofer..
Below is the list i will be ordering...Currently i have a B&K reference 200.2 2 channel amp already which will power subwoofer...
Active XO
This will power mid
2 channel stereo Class D amp
Fostex
Goldwood GW-1858 18
once little settled i will add Neo tweeter on top of this...
Any inputs or suggestion...
hi , if you intend to do a sat+sub , then a subwoofer amplifier would
be an easier solution , incorporating both mix & lowpass and highpass (-ive) filters .
But maybe you want to do both in stereo .
i am planning to go for full 3 way speaker... right now taking one step at a time...actually heck with trying i will add the Neo3 tweeter too...
Yes . neo tweeter is useful in any way , any way
Specifically , when the response on an off axis listening falls , due to
the specific dispersion of the cone in relation to its diameter ; so a flat
membrane , driven equally along the surface ,which is built for radiating in both
directions , is well deputed to be used in the treble section ! Same can not be said about the whizzer cone which just 'uses' the piston movement near the voice coil former .
Specifically , when the response on an off axis listening falls , due to
the specific dispersion of the cone in relation to its diameter ; so a flat
membrane , driven equally along the surface ,which is built for radiating in both
directions , is well deputed to be used in the treble section ! Same can not be said about the whizzer cone which just 'uses' the piston movement near the voice coil former .
Yes . neo tweeter is useful in any way , any way
Specifically , when the response on an off axis listening falls , due to
the specific dispersion of the cone in relation to its diameter ; so a flat
membrane , driven equally along the surface ,which is built for radiating in both
directions , is well deputed to be used in the treble section ! Same can not be said about the whizzer cone which just 'uses' the piston movement near the voice coil former .
in that case i need another stero amp to dive total of 6 speakers...
i already have a stereo amp... B&K
for 4 channel do you reomcend going some 40-60W rotel 5 channel amp....
40-60 W , 2 channels was enough for playing at live levels with a set of OB , 3 way passive...hmm , it was 4 Ω so more toward 60 W . Going active , you'd get a little bit more in resolution , since each amp is fed with the signal limited in bandwidth and gaining from the direct to speaker connection without losses.
well so i will look nito getting a 60 w 6 channel amp....
BTW just off the head came an idea ...can i replace full range fostex with a horn based mid range...like econowave type system
e..g like this...
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-204
V
Last edited:
Actually nowadays I'm playing ( still ) with inexpensive from boxes/tv
and 1-2-5 Wattage which are quit un-sensible and suffer from distortion (not ...power compression )when hitting the max But they're still nice and un-fatiguing ,given their basic economy scale
Which is the opposite of pro drivers , especially the CD+horn combo that has tremendous
efficiency & sensitivity , and at home just 1 W would then be sufficient to raise the level to 105 dB !
Indeed , there are some ( japanese ) systems that use very rare drivers ( with rare materials ) and are based on full horn on all ways , and driven with tubes which give their best at low power and class A ...whether transformer coupled or OTL .
) with inexpensive from boxes/tv and 1-2-5 Wattage which are quit un-sensible and suffer from distortion (not ...power compression
)when hitting the max But they're still nice and un-fatiguing ,given their basic economy scale Which is the opposite of pro drivers , especially the CD+horn combo that has tremendous
efficiency & sensitivity , and at home just 1 W would then be sufficient to raise the level to 105 dB ! Indeed , there are some ( japanese ) systems that use very rare drivers ( with rare materials ) and are based on full horn on all ways , and driven with tubes which give their best at low power and class A ...whether transformer coupled or OTL .
Wanted to know if i can use this 6 channel amp seems to be cheap....
6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board 320-307
V
6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board 320-307
V
Oh sorry ! The amplifier ! I've been busy attaching a concave dustcap to an old speaker : now it looks fashion!
Why six channels ? Oh yes , active all the way ! And ,why the same power ?
Energy distribution in the audio spectrum varies with the kind of music , but generally the bass absorbs 50 % of total power ,that's why the subwoofer amplifiers are preferred to be power hungry !
And why...class D ? Those are the cheapest of the cheap .
I would avoid it as I don't want to burn the essential hope in good sound
that anyone should aim for when building something .
I too , I play with junk , but it's a lot of work . But I rely on the quality
that my amplifier / system delivers, so I can make ratings and comparisons
with my creations ...which should all sound the same ,and obviously identical to the content of the disc .
In the end...I would keep the B&K at least for the bass , and search for a reliable stereo amp , or quad-amp or better build an amplifier with a LM3886
that is cheap and protected .
But I wouldn't skip the 'passive route' : having only one stereo amplifier
is more elegant than having a rack full of electronics
Why six channels ? Oh yes , active all the way ! And ,why the same power ?
Energy distribution in the audio spectrum varies with the kind of music , but generally the bass absorbs 50 % of total power ,that's why the subwoofer amplifiers are preferred to be power hungry !
And why...class D ? Those are the cheapest of the cheap .
I would avoid it as I don't want to burn the essential hope in good sound
that anyone should aim for when building something .
I too , I play with junk , but it's a lot of work . But I rely on the quality
that my amplifier / system delivers, so I can make ratings and comparisons
with my creations ...which should all sound the same ,and obviously identical to the content of the disc .
In the end...I would keep the B&K at least for the bass , and search for a reliable stereo amp , or quad-amp or better build an amplifier with a LM3886
that is cheap and protected .
But I wouldn't skip the 'passive route' : having only one stereo amplifier
is more elegant than having a rack full of electronics
Oh sorry ! The amplifier ! I've been busy attaching a concave dustcap to an old speaker : now it looks fashion!
Why six channels ? Oh yes , active all the way ! And ,why the same power ?
Energy distribution in the audio spectrum varies with the kind of music , but generally the bass absorbs 50 % of total power ,that's why the subwoofer amplifiers are preferred to be power hungry !
And why...class D ? Those are the cheapest of the cheap .
I would avoid it as I don't want to burn the essential hope in good sound
that anyone should aim for when building something .
I too , I play with junk , but it's a lot of work . But I rely on the quality
that my amplifier / system delivers, so I can make ratings and comparisons
with my creations ...which should all sound the same ,and obviously identical to the content of the disc .
In the end...I would keep the B&K at least for the bass , and search for a reliable stereo amp , or quad-amp or better build an amplifier with a LM3886
that is cheap and protected .
But I wouldn't skip the 'passive route' : having only one stereo amplifier
is more elegant than having a rack full of electronics
I guess i will look for some Rotel or NAD.... i will keep B&K for bass that should be suffice...now need to find a 4 or 5 channel amp...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.