I've just done quite a bit of reading on this, and the answer is...
"It depends."
(You knew that was coming, right?) Ideally, the speaker should be mounted as firmly as possible unless doing so causes other objects in the room (usually walls or floors, sometimes bookshelves) to resonate. Then, a softer mounting would be more appropriate.
"It depends."
(You knew that was coming, right?) Ideally, the speaker should be mounted as firmly as possible unless doing so causes other objects in the room (usually walls or floors, sometimes bookshelves) to resonate. Then, a softer mounting would be more appropriate.
Thanks for the feedback. I wasn't sure what to expect.
I built 2-way minimonitors with Scanspeak Illuminator drivers (kit). Before I decided on these I had a set on loan from the shop and they also included metal stands. There was no brand on them, but they were probably Atacama Audio Nexus 6i. There were two thin narrow strips of a fine cell black foam on top of them but no means for fixing the speakers at all.
This made me wonder, but it seems there's no clear cut answer.
I like the Blu-Tack solution, but if I make really heavy stands, I am also considering putting the speakers on top of that using spikes. Seems I need to experiment...
I built 2-way minimonitors with Scanspeak Illuminator drivers (kit). Before I decided on these I had a set on loan from the shop and they also included metal stands. There was no brand on them, but they were probably Atacama Audio Nexus 6i. There were two thin narrow strips of a fine cell black foam on top of them but no means for fixing the speakers at all.
This made me wonder, but it seems there's no clear cut answer.
I like the Blu-Tack solution, but if I make really heavy stands, I am also considering putting the speakers on top of that using spikes. Seems I need to experiment...
I like blu-tac over spikes because it makes the speakers more secure. Lots of ways to bump spike speakers off the stand. It's also worth some time to make the stands heavy and inert. I fill columns with sand when the design permits.
I have no kids or pets running around, but it's indeed something to keep in mind.
The first column is in clamps. I decided on a simple rectangular shape with the same proportions (depth/width) of the speakers that are going on top. They'll be made of 18 mm MDF and there'll be a cavity that I'm indeed planning on filling. I also want to use a concrete tile inside the base of the stand, not only to make it heavier, but also to give it a low centre of gravity to make knocking over more difficult.
The floor in my living room is covered with laminate floorboards. The floorstanders I have now are on spikes (on cups) and I was wondering if I should do the same with the stands...
The first column is in clamps. I decided on a simple rectangular shape with the same proportions (depth/width) of the speakers that are going on top. They'll be made of 18 mm MDF and there'll be a cavity that I'm indeed planning on filling. I also want to use a concrete tile inside the base of the stand, not only to make it heavier, but also to give it a low centre of gravity to make knocking over more difficult.
The floor in my living room is covered with laminate floorboards. The floorstanders I have now are on spikes (on cups) and I was wondering if I should do the same with the stands...
I think it depends some on what the stand itself is doing. If the stand itself is constructed / designed in a fashion whereby it limits vibration through it, then coupling it rigidly to the stand would seem the right direction.
On the other hand, if vibration passes down the stand easily, then decoupling at the speaker might be good as long as the speaker isnt floating too much as to let it wobble or move.
On the other hand, if vibration passes down the stand easily, then decoupling at the speaker might be good as long as the speaker isnt floating too much as to let it wobble or move.
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