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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
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This sort of thread always ends in a debate about who's study to believe, and who paper to read. Suffice it to say there are benefits in both strategies. Stiffness alone without damping is not advisable any more than low stiffness panels and no damping is a good idea. I can recommend both Ply and MDF. MDF has flaws...it swells, stinks, and you generally need a thicker panel. I have had good results on a small 7 litre monitor using 8mm MDF and 12mm Plasterboard lath on the inside. Walls lined with offcuts of thick wool carpet. Worked very well, the only thing I would mention about the plasterboard is that it reflects alot better than MDF or wood......I ended up with Carpet plus maybe 1.5" of foam/cotton wool/felt and a bit of BAF. I just about tamed it.
Now the Birch ply is also a good idea. I have some steel box I might use in conjunction with ply and some resin and glass fiber. Before that I have another with granite for the panels, only 8mm I think. This will be epoxied to a steel section 'cleat' structure. It would be really cool to GRP that!
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It still amazes me every time I get something right |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
David S |
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#13 |
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Dilletante, tinkerer and beggathoner supreme
diyAudio Member
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A layer of plasterboard glued to the inside panel works, but it is heavy and needed full glue coverage, I used standard PVA after the box was bulit.
A friend uses standard Plaster of Paris wet down with full strength PVA glue and paints it over the inside
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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I saw a project with a small 2 way monitor a while back that was made out of granite. I'd imagine that would be as good as it gets if you're shooting for mass and stiffness. The folks who made it seemed to like it, but I've never listened to such a thing.
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
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People focus a lot on materials. Shape also has a significant effect on stiffness.
Linkwitz Pluto uses rigid tubes, these are very, very heavily stuffed/damped to reduce the strong single peak from the length of a tube, then finally the speaker is actively equalized, reducing this further. Cabinet colouration simply doesn't rear it's ugly head, together with it's small curved form making for very low diffraction issues the speaker disappears from the ear like a pair of ESL's (which need a greater listening distance to pull this off). |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
For work I have been looking into the possibility of a transportable temporary theater with a tent-like or bubble construction. The question is what the acoustics of a heavy walled bubble or tent would be. It turns out that flexible walls almost perfectly follow what acousticians call "mass law" characteristics. Their sound issolation is a pure 6dB per Octave curve. Every Octave you go up they give 6dB better transmission loss or issolation. Start to add stiffness and you will incur resonances. At resonances you have a narrow band of total transmission. Once you have resonances your only hope is that damping can be added to reduce resonance level and thereby transmission. So the ideal box would be a massive, soft and lossy, dense rubber-like material. Rapped with your knuckles it should give a dull pitch-free sound. Regards, David S. |
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#17 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I can see Dave's speaker building philosophy is way at the other end of the spectrum thsn mine.
The short version being -- everything resonates, but if they are never excited it as if they don't exist. Then think about the fact that the energy available to excite a resonance is inversly proportional to the frequency -- althou it can be argued, that above a certain frequency, it is actually proportional to the 4th power of the frequency. Where this has led me, is to practical boxes that are very quiet. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: S.Wales, UK
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Quote:
So what would be an ideal speaker cabinet construction/material? |
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I also have some fairly dense 1" cork, and 1" rubber. Both I considered a good option for a extra lossy material. When I tried it initially, the result was less inspiring than I first thought. Polyester casting resin would be an interesting material to try. I spotted some aluminium loaded resin last week and now im just waiting for the Easter eggs to come, and their vacuum moulded plastic packaging(which I plan to use to make a mould). An easter egg shapped pod computer speaker system is exactly what I need
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It still amazes me every time I get something right |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cheltenham
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I wonder if a different box for each driver would be the ideal approach. I know a woofer/subwoofer works best in a solid, well braced cabinet because i've tried the with/without bracing experiment and the bass was much tighter and better in the well braced cabinet. Also, you'd never buy a good quality subwoofer that wasn't in a well braced cabinet.
The resonant frequency of a well braced cabinet would be much higher than that of an unbraced cabinet, So the low frequencies that the woofer produce, would never exite the box resonant frequency. For the tweeter perhaps the soft rubber material that Dave suggests would be best? I don't know how you'd decouple one box from the other though. EDIT: If you remove all of the resonance out of the pass band of each driver, how much difference would it make in reality? I mean, would it be worth the effort? Last edited by fatmarley; 7th April 2012 at 10:10 AM. |
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