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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kerala , India
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Hi,
Since i couldn't find any speaker kits in my place and importing drivers form abroad costs a huge sum (transportation + customs duty which some times go more than the cost of Kits ) i am thinking of making a Bookshelf with locally available drivers . i am a total noob to speaker building i hope speaker building Gurus will help me in the process . these are the two drivers i am offered Tweeter --- Peerless India T25 AN ( around 18USD) https://picasaweb.google.com/1046008...45/19March2012 Mid/Woofer ---Peerless India M13NH (around 15USD) Products - PeerlessAudio.com i used an online calculator and got these values for the box internal volume : 7.07 lit Fb 52.67 port lenght 2.24inch port dia 1 inch are these ok ? and what type of a crossover should i go for ? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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The peerless M13NH certainly is more suitable in a vented rather than a closed box. That is,
EBP = Fs/ Qes = 45.5 Hz/ 0.41 = 111 An EBP or efficiency bandwidth product close to 100 means more suitable in a vented system. That said, a vented system is more difficult to make work properly than a closed-box system. This is the case because the Q of the system of woofer in the box is difficult to predict. In the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook it is suggested to make the box 25% larger than what the equations say interior volume should be according to the alignment that you choose. Then you can make the box smaller by filling it to get the correct alignment, if necessary. If you truly are a beginner, a closed-box system is a lot easier than vented. For the crossover, I do believe that there is a tutorial available here at DIY-Audio for designing them without making measurements, which I suppose is what you would want. Regards, Pete |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
Unless you've monumentally screwed up reducing box volumes to hit a "target" is a very bad idea / concept. Simple port retuning is all that is needed to get the best out of a better bigger box. The driver will have very restricted bass in a closed box. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Western Sydney
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I'd go slightly larger, ~ 10L tuned in the high 40s. But this depends on how accurate the given parameters are, ideally you'd break the drivers in for a while in test boxes, then measure the parameters yourself using Arta or some similar software & recalculate.
The tweeter link doesn't work, so can't recommend a xover freq, but looks like the woofer will be good up to ~2-3 Khz, & will need some sort of notch to deal with the peakiness. 2nd order Linkwitz-Riley is probably a good place to start for the xover.
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kerala , India
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kerala , India
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
Regards, Pete |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kerala , India
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Another noob question what if i go wrong with the calculations and if the volume becomes larger than actually needed hows its going to affect the sound quality ?
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#10 |
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Dilletante, tinkerer and beggathoner supreme
diyAudio Member
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Peerless seem to recommend using this as a midrange, 200 and up, so a sealed box and no bass seem inevitable with only one driver.
Vented box is your only real option as a 3-way is more difficult to get right; especially first time, nice specs for a decent midrange tho
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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