Zaph ZRT - Help for variation - diyAudio
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Old 9th March 2012, 11:23 AM   #1
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Default Zaph ZRT - Help for variation

Hello everybody,I'm a new user but following long since in a "listening" mode ... First of all, forgive me for my first post being rather long but I really need you experts advice, to decide on a couple of questions before starting this project in the best way (it's not exactly cheap!).I'm pretty good in working with wood and other materials (my primary hobby) but still (and I believe I remain) a novice in Audio - related mechanics.So, as per the title, I plan to build a pair of Zaph ZRT (standmount, closed cabinet) for my fair decent hi-fi system (50W P/P EL34 ampli + Rega CD + Thorens).My two options:A. baltic birch plywood, translam construction with a elliptical shape (a la magico mini, but with a flat baffle made of panzerholz and not alluminium).B. classic boxy shape (HDF + panzerhols baffle).And the questions:1. which option is better, as far as the possible outcome?2. my proposal to use panzerholz as baffle material is wise? (I believe so)3. due to extensive bracing, I need to alter project dimension from original design to keep internal volume constant. What's the best way? Increasing height, depth or width (or all of them, proportionally)?4. due to the fact that I intend to make side walls 1" , and to round the edges of the baffle, the overall widht will result approx 1" wider (30 mm). Would this be dertimental to Loudspeaker performance?Many thanks in advance for any help in answering these questions. And for any other suggestions ... I believe it looks clear I'm leaning towards a sort of overkill approach!Thanks again for support (and patience reading this long post).Cheers.
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Old 9th March 2012, 12:15 PM   #2
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to any moderator: could you please remove my post. I acknowlegde it is not readable. For any reasons the format of the original message is gone!. I'll try to re-write it to make it better.
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Old 9th March 2012, 12:20 PM   #3
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1) In my opinion baltic birch plywood tend to sound superior than mdf so I would take A
2) no idea
3) For cabinet it's better to play with depth to keep front baffle as it initially supposed to be.
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Old 9th March 2012, 12:31 PM   #4
DrDyna is offline DrDyna  United States
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If you're going to increase the volume, do it with depth. The front baffle dimensions are most likely married to baffle compensation in the crossover.

Baltic birch is probably better, if you can find decent quality.
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Old 9th March 2012, 12:39 PM   #5
sreten is online now sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

1) A) seems like it would be better.
2) Seems a good idea.
3) Yes. Increase the depth and/or height.
4) It should be OK.

rgds, sreten.
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Old 9th March 2012, 01:24 PM   #6
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Thanks to quick reply. Sorry for my post being poorly readable. I tried to rewrite but for some reason, when I post it, formatting goes away!To recap:Translam, oval shape, better than standard boxy. Panzerholz good choice for the baffle. Birch plywood better than HDF/MDF. The extra 30mm width baffle (with 1inch rounded edges) won't affect loudspeaker's performance. Q: may the fact that the baffle will remain flat, while the shape of the cabinet will be oval (i.e. the baffle will not follow the ovarall cabinet shape) constitute an issue? Cheers.
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Old 9th March 2012, 04:03 PM   #7
DrDyna is offline DrDyna  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberlancer View Post
... The extra 30mm width baffle (with 1inch rounded edges) won't affect loudspeaker's performance. ..
I'd stick with the stock width.

Baffle Step Compensation
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Old 16th March 2012, 10:22 AM   #8
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Thanx everybody for the quick answers (notwithstanding the poor readability of my post !).

I got the main points but I'm still investigating the costs for CNC routing in case I'll decide to go the translam way. We'll see ...

Just another (maybe) silly question, related to the traditional boxy shape:
I see that Zaph prefers to close the rear of the box and bolt the baffle. Is there any reasons? I mean what about permanently glue the baffle to the box and bolt the rear face to the cabinet? Better, Worse, Same?

Many thanks in advance

C.
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Old 16th March 2012, 10:37 AM   #9
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I can think of one very good reason to bolt on the baffle. You can change driver sizes or positions without having to build a new box! All you need to do is make a new baffle Certainly great if you are prototyping/experimenting.

Tony.
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Old 16th March 2012, 11:57 AM   #10
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Hey, thanks. I omitted to say that this was the only reason I could see ...

My question was more oriented to know if there is any change (from a performance point of view) having the baffle bolted (albeit very well bolted) or perfectly solid with the rest of the cabinet (i.e. epoxy glued).

Many thanks!

C
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