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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 8th March 2012, 08:22 PM   #11
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one easy thing to try is the '99 cent tweak', put a strip of damping material (the pillow filling stuff) between the whizzer and the cone. The idea is to damp the whizzer to stop its nasty resonances. easy to reverse if you don't like it.
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 9th March 2012, 02:30 AM   #12
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Thanks,

Should I remove the wizzer/attempt the 99c trick before measurement?

I have picked up a better microphone and will try and set up the test again with proper calibration this weekend.

Are their any problems with shallow cabenets? I was thinking building this one 400mm wide and 200mm deep and choose the hight to give approriate litreage ~800mm for 60L.
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Old 9th March 2012, 04:20 AM   #13
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Missing STEPS plots - I will try and do some better ones tomorrow.


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File Type: png tweeter1.PNG (30.0 KB, 321 views)
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Old 23rd March 2012, 04:51 AM   #14
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I finally have some time to look into this again.

It does not look like the curve has changes much after hours of 20-40Hz:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 23rd March 2012, 07:35 AM   #15
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I cant seem to get steps working properly with the new mic. I think I will have to build a proper pre-amp for it.
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Old 3rd April 2012, 09:02 AM   #16
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Just did a quick open air test with the below cross over, sounds decent - not at all disappointing.
I am using back to electro's and some big wima's for the moment. Will ceramic caps in parallel be a suitable trade-off for electro's?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I have also picked up some 15mm ply, this has all been cut to size. External dimensions will be 1200x450x155.

Any idea's on driver placement?
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File Type: jpg IMGP8126.jpg (747.8 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg cross.JPG (23.5 KB, 140 views)
File Type: jpg Cheap two way.jpg (86.3 KB, 141 views)

Last edited by jacobthellamer; 3rd April 2012 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 3rd April 2012, 11:16 AM   #17
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Hi
I've seen you've decided to have a tall and thin tower.
It helps you to get a first result: to have the center of the tweeter just at the height of the listener.
So, seat down on your armchair and take the point of reference on the baffle.
Then, put the woofer just down the tweeter, closer than possible.
To reduce diffraction effects, tweeter can be put not exactly in the center of the baffle, but near one edge. Of course, a box has the tweeter near its left edge, the other near the right one.
Woofer shall be put exactly in the center.
I will post a sketch.
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Old 3rd April 2012, 11:27 AM   #18
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Default The sketch

Sketch.bmp
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Old 3rd April 2012, 08:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slovnaft View Post
Hi
I've seen you've decided to have a tall and thin tower.
It helps you to get a first result: to have the center of the tweeter just at the height of the listener.
So, seat down on your armchair and take the point of reference on the baffle.
Then, put the woofer just down the tweeter, closer than possible.
To reduce diffraction effects, tweeter can be put not exactly in the center of the baffle, but near one edge. Of course, a box has the tweeter near its left edge, the other near the right one.
Woofer shall be put exactly in the center.
I will post a sketch.

Cheers slovnaft,

The sketch has not come through but I think I have got the idea.

I will mark out the baffle tonight.

Last edited by jacobthellamer; 3rd April 2012 at 09:00 PM.
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Old 3rd April 2012, 09:03 PM   #20
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Default Skech

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobthellamer View Post
Cheers slovnaft,

The sketch has not come through but I think I have got the idea.

I will mark out the baffle tonight.
Strange... I can see it.
Anyway, this is the concept:
Click the image to open in full size.
where the center of the tweeter is at the height of your ears, when listening.
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