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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
The ditton 88 has a cone midrange and is presumably crossed over much lower than the single 12" / midrange dome models such that thare are no issues with the twin drivers crossing over to the mid. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: USA
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Something that no on has mentioned is that using speaker drivers from production speakers means that you do not have the technical data on them.
You would be much better going with new drivers which have published technical details. Do a tour of solen.ca or parts-express to get things moving. |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#35 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Quote:
You really don't think they'd start with the technical data? Would they just go get one of every driver that looks nice and then test them all? In any regard, third party testing etc.. has nothing to do with this thread, the op's idea was to buy some unknown B&W drivers and use them with no data or testing. |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ljubljana
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Nice project...BUT.
All good and proper sounding speakers have some sort of theoretical background. It is waist of time and money just to try clone the shape of nautilus and expect good sound. It might sound ok but it would be just good luck. Do you imagine how much just material will cost and how many hours of hard work and which kind of tools you will need? And skills of course. I'm not trying to be negative but please listen to the guys and try to make some calculations first......The guys here have a lot of experience and are just trying to help. Once again. It would be waist of money and time just to try your good luck. Btw how are original nautilus speakers stuffed? And which kind of material they use? Is it important? Does it somehow affect to the sound? Maybe not. Maybe just colour and glossy finish is important. I think that black could sound nice. Maybe black -matt....sorry just kidding. So once again listen to the guys and at least try to make some calculations....and search for some theory... Very bhttp://www.bowers-wilkins.co.uk/Speakers/Home_Audio/Nautilus/Technologies.htmlest regards |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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From my long newbie career
Another thing , is the efficiency of the driver : by working together with a dome midrange ,I guess the big woofer has traded efficiency for extension ( BW ) , and that's what the PR is doing there ,to extend a little bit the bass .
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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not really touched on sufficiently I think in this discussion so far is the fact that the drivers in the full blown Nautilus speakers and the enclosures are specifically designed for each other
even though there are arguably many ways for a DIYer to emulate the enclosure construction (some of which have already been highlighted), trying to adapt even a very high quality array of drivers to clone such a unique system design would be a nightmare for an experienced acoustical engineer
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Horses for courses and clones for clones. Given a pair of 662's how would you improve them is the real question as opposed to making them look like they are a lot better than they are. rgds, sreten.
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#40 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
You seem to want to infer from my original post, that I intended to convey that one should semi-blindly just purchase a bunch of drivers. Nope. Regards, Eric |
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