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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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this is all data and my pictures found about this towers
https://picasaweb.google.com/1016749...8341/JBLMX1500 https://www.axacter.com/mx1500.pdf nominal Impedanse 4ohm rekomended amp 10-125W Freq 40Hz - 25kHz Sensitivity 90dB / 2.8V / 1M internal volume of 50 liters 220x260x870 thickness of board 1.5 crossover 900Hz 3.5kHz woofer A0708A 210mm woofer 25mm voice coil 3.4ohm mid A0704A 100mm 20mm voice coil 3.0 ohm tweter A0701A 5.7 ohm port tube 70 mm diametr x 145mm |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
The tweeter is an Audax, available from madisound. Refoam the bass units and sort out the pushed in dustcaps. Remove and replace the dustcaps if you have to. rgds, sreten.
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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woofer maybe Динамик НЧ Visaton W 200 S/4 (1 шт.) ????
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#4 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Between cities!
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Are the mids and tweeters working?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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yes all speakers is good but need replace foams for woofers and maybe caps
i have set MX1500 MX300 i want to use this boxes and replace the speakers with something better ) |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Pics mx1500
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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The membrane in the last two pics is damaged. I fear it has to be changed , too .
Maybe a pair of Dayton DC 250 would be ok ,for the 3 way ...at about 30 $ each . Check if there are also 4 Ω models , as I see now that the MX 1500 it's rated at that impedance |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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So you can find any good 25 cm for car ( = 4 Ω ) in your vicinity , if available .
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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The simple route is to have damaged drivers repaired to as close to original stock as possible, and replace aging caps with equal value modern equals to get things back into spec. These 2 steps would result in the most amount of useful refurb for the least amount of effort. The result would be perfectly functional speakers, roughly as good as they ever were. I haven't a clue as to how "good" they were originally so whether or not a complete re-engineering is likely to produce a better result is unknown to me.
On the other hand, I see this as some very plain boxes that could achieve something potentially better with a long list of modifications. Internal bracing, dampening, modern drivers with potentially lower distortion that can handle more appropriate x-over points to maintain acceptable off-axis response. There is a lot of opportunity there to improve things IMO. Many folks will disagree, for good reason. You should weigh potential gamble of a re-engineered design against going back to what they were and decide which you feel is your best option. |
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