Please recommend Hi-Fi speakers for JBL MX1500 tower

[han6man]

this is all data and my pictures found about this towers
https://picasaweb.google.com/101674986737083658341/JBLMX1500
https://www.axacter.com/mx1500.pdf

nominal Impedanse 4ohm
rekomended amp 10-125W
Freq 40Hz - 25kHz
Sensitivity 90dB / 2.8V / 1M

internal volume of 50 liters 220x260x870 thickness of board 1.5

crossover 900Hz 3.5kHz
woofer A0708A 210mm woofer 25mm voice coil 3.4ohm
mid A0704A 100mm 20mm voice coil 3.0 ohm
tweter A0701A 5.7 ohm
port tube 70 mm diametr x 145mm

 

[sreten]

Hi,

The tweeter is an Audax, available from madisound.

Refoam the bass units and sort out the pushed in dustcaps.
Remove and replace the dustcaps if you have to.

rgds, sreten.

 

[han6man]

woofer maybe Äèíàìèê Í× Visaton W 200 S/4 (1 øò.) ????

 

[dabbler]

Are the mids and tweeters working?

 

[han6man]

yes all speakers is good but need replace foams for woofers and maybe caps
i have set
MX1500
MX300

i want to use this boxes and replace the speakers with something better )

 

[han6man]

Pics mx1500

 

[picowallspeaker]

The membrane in the last two pics is damaged. I fear it has to be changed , too .

Maybe a pair of Dayton DC 250 would be ok ,for the 3 way ...at about 30 $ each .

Check if there are also 4 Ω models , as I see now that the MX 1500 it's rated at that impedance

 

[han6man]

Parallel discussion
ïîðåêîìåíäóéòå ïëç äèíàìèêè Hi-Fi ïîä êîðïóñ JBL MX1500
ïîðåêîìåíäóéòå äèíàìèêè Hi-Fi ïîä êîðïóñ JBL MX1500 | Ôîðóìû «Ñàìîäåëêà.Ðó»

 

[picowallspeaker]

So you can find any good 25 cm for car ( = 4 Ω ) in your vicinity , if available .

 

[mdocod]

The simple route is to have damaged drivers repaired to as close to original stock as possible, and replace aging caps with equal value modern equals to get things back into spec. These 2 steps would result in the most amount of useful refurb for the least amount of effort. The result would be perfectly functional speakers, roughly as good as they ever were. I haven't a clue as to how "good" they were originally so whether or not a complete re-engineering is likely to produce a better result is unknown to me.

On the other hand, I see this as some very plain boxes that could achieve something potentially better with a long list of modifications. Internal bracing, dampening, modern drivers with potentially lower distortion that can handle more appropriate x-over points to maintain acceptable off-axis response. There is a lot of opportunity there to improve things IMO. Many folks will disagree, for good reason. You should weigh potential gamble of a re-engineered design against going back to what they were and decide which you feel is your best option.

 

[sreten]

Hi,

Updating the drivers won't really help using the original crossovers.

Just fix the dust caps on the 2 way bass/mids and 3 way mid units.

Looks like you'll need two new 4 ohm bass units, the good news
is replacement is less critical in a 3 way than in a 2 way.

An 8" 90dB (1w) 4 ohm unit with a 1" voice coil is what your after.

Locally I found this :
http://cpc.farnell.com/_/55-1520/poly-paper-woofer-8/dp/LS00438?in_merch=Products From This Range

And these :
Peerless 8" SKO204 hifi bass speakers woofers 4ohm | eBay

The latter would be my choice. They are 89dB for 1 watt.

rgds, sreten.



Acoustic and Electrical Specifications:
* Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
* Recommended Amp Power: 10 - 125 W
* Frequency Response: 40 Hz - 25 kHz (-6dB)
* Sensitivity: 90 dB / 2.8V / 1 m
* Crossover frequency: 900 Hz / 3.5kHz

System components:
* Cabinet: CMX-1500 (N/A)
* Grille: GMX - 1500 (2404520)
* Woofer: (A0708A) 210mm Woofer, 25mm voice coil, 3.4 ohm DC resistance.
* Midrange: (A0704A) 100mm Midrange, 20mm voice coil, 3.0 ohm DC resistance.
* Tweeter: (A0701A) tweeter, 5.7 ohm DC resistance
* Crossover Network: NMX-1500 (2704520)

 

[han6man]

The simple route is to have damaged drivers repaired to as close to original stock as possible, and replace aging caps with equal value modern equals to get things back into spec. These 2 steps would result in the most amount of useful refurb for the least amount of effort. The result would be perfectly functional speakers, roughly as good as they ever were. I haven't a clue as to how "good" they were originally so whether or not a complete re-engineering is likely to produce a better result is unknown to me.

On the other hand, I see this as some very plain boxes that could achieve something potentially better with a long list of modifications. Internal bracing, dampening, modern drivers with potentially lower distortion that can handle more appropriate x-over points to maintain acceptable off-axis response. There is a lot of opportunity there to improve things IMO. Many folks will disagree, for good reason. You should weigh potential gamble of a re-engineered design against going back to what they were and decide which you feel is your best option.

to repair woofers i found this kit by size of foam
ebay.com/itm/JBL-4408A-116H-3-8-Woofer-Refoam-Kit-Speaker-Repair-/150598107754?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item231058c26a

but i think maybe use modern drives and new crosover for this box

 

[han6man]

what i nead to use this boxes to bild 3way ~100-120W 8ohm speaker

may be use this boxes
www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/207816-please-recommend-hi-fi-speakers-jvc-sx-f50-tower.html

 

[mdocod]

You need to take a big step back from "watts" as being an important factor here. "100-120W" is meaningless. It's like saying "I only intend to operate my speakers between 109db and 110db and nothing else."

There are very likely many potentially useful build options for you that would have everywhere from 10W to 10,000W power handling, amplification power be damned, it doesn't really matter all that much for most in-home audio reproduction. You probably listen to most music between 0.1 and 10W per channel anyways. The vast consumer audio market has figured that wattage ratings can be used as a useful marketing strategy. Sorry, you fell for it, now walk away from it and feel good

Eric

 

[han6man]

You need to take a big step back from "watts" as being an important factor here. "100-120W" is meaningless. It's like saying "I only intend to operate my speakers between 109db and 110db and nothing else."

There are very likely many potentially useful build options for you that would have everywhere from 10W to 10,000W power handling, amplification power be damned, it doesn't really matter all that much for most in-home audio reproduction. You probably listen to most music between 0.1 and 10W per channel anyways. The vast consumer audio market has figured that wattage ratings can be used as a useful marketing strategy. Sorry, you fell for it, now walk away from it and feel good

Eric

100-120 w. long- term maximum power.
more clearly )
i nead write why so mutch?

 

[han6man]

may be sum sets from her?

1. Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Äèíàìèê Í× Visaton GF 200/2x4 (1 øò.) (5478p)
Äèíàìèê Ñ×/Í× Visaton AL 170/8 (1 øò.) (4860p)
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories (?p)

Technical Data:
Rated power 150 W
Maximum power 200 W
Nominal impedance Z 4 Ohm
Frequency response 30 - 30000 Hz
Mean sound pressure level 84 dB
(1 W/1 m)
Cut-off frequency 200 / 3000 Hz
Principle of Housing Bassreflex
Net volume 50 l + 10 l
Outer dimension height 1278 mm
Outer dimension width 405 mm
Outer dimension depth 437 mm


2. Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Äèíàìèê Í× Visaton GF 200/2x4 (1 øò.)
Äèíàìèê Ñ×/Í× Visaton TI 100/8 (1 øò.)
Äèíàìèê Â× Visaton G 20 SC/8 (1 øò.)

Technical Data:
Rated power 120 W
Maximum power 180 W
Nominal impedance Z 8 Ohm
Frequency response 35–30000 Hz
Mean sound pressure level 86 dB (1 W/1 m)
Cut-off frequency 400 / 2500 Hz
Principle of Housing Bassreflex
Net volume 40 l + 4 l
Outer dimension height 1000 mm
Outer dimension width 260 mm
Outer dimension depth 260 mm


3. Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories
Äèíàìèê Í× Visaton AL 200/8 (1 øò.)
Äèíàìèê Ñ×/Í× Visaton TI 100/8 (1 øò.)
Äèíàìèê Â× Visaton KE 25 SC/8 (1 øò.)


Technical Data:
Rated power 120 W
Maximum power 180 W
Nominal impedance Z 8 Ohm
Frequency response 35 - 25000 Hz
Mean sound pressure level 88 dB (1W/1m)
Cut-off frequency 400 / 2500 Hz
Principle of Housing Bassreflex
Net volume 40 l + 4 l
Outer dimension height 1000 mm
Outer dimension width 260 mm
Outer dimension depth 260 mm

 

[mdocod]

The classic 200 kits would be the most likely to translate to your boxes reasonably well, though the driver spacing would probably not be as tight in your cabs.

 

[han6man]

The classic 200 kits would be the most likely to translate to your boxes reasonably well, though the driver spacing would probably not be as tight in your cabs.

ore mid price range
Äèíàìèê Í× Visaton W 200 S/8 (1 øò.)
Äèíàìèê Ñ×/Í× Visaton W 100 S/8 (1 øò.)
Äèíàìèê Â× Visaton G 20 SC/8 (1 øò.)

 

[Jacov]

Pics mx1500

Hello, you must think after so many years someone for this topic 🤔 I am searching the internet for a replacement woofer for my JBL MX1500. This speaker is blown, that's why. Are there any replacement options? Please your advice.
Kind regards, Jacov