DIY 2.1 System - Eekel's Mini + Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 - diyAudio
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Old 13th February 2012, 06:31 PM   #1
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Default DIY 2.1 System - Eekel's Mini + Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4

Hello All

I will start here to present my current status of this DIY project: Eekel's Mini + 8" RSS210HF-4 Subwoofer.

The plan is to go all active. Thus, I will make my own version of thee Eekel's Mini with integrated Hypex AS2.100 amplifier (master + slave). I will have to change the port configuration from round to rectangular in order to accomodate the plate amplifier. Also I plan to put polycarbonate covers on the XOs so I can see them directly from the outside... niiiiice

The subwoofer I get a preliminary design of 17,6 liter closed box with a QTC of 0,634 and F3 of 48,77Hz... I would appreciate if you could comment on this also! All of you who are far more experienced than me for sure...

I will start next weekend and I will put the photos here so I can share my work.

Best Regards
André
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Old 10th March 2012, 01:15 AM   #2
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News on the construction!
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Old 16th March 2012, 12:58 PM   #3
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crossover parts arrived!
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Old 16th March 2012, 07:42 PM   #4
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So I made a template for each crossover, treble and bass, in order to study best component placement and this is the final result!
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Old 16th March 2012, 07:44 PM   #5
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Old 16th March 2012, 07:47 PM   #6
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Hello Cal

I still have to make all the connections... Also I still don't have the drivers with me :S

But I am pretty curious on how will it sound... also with the Hypex AS2.100 plate amplifier.
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Old 19th March 2012, 12:53 AM   #7
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Work goes on... soldering crossover components (bass section)!
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Old 19th March 2012, 03:12 PM   #8
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Both Crossovers finished 2 pairs of tweeter and bass section
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Old 19th March 2012, 06:57 PM   #9
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Default Depends on your usage...

I have measured 2 of the RSS210HF-4, ad here are my measured numbers.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

That should help you refine your simulation. FWIW- I use it in 1ft^3, with a 2.5" D x 10.5" L port. Fb/3/10 = 30/26/19 Hz, and good for about 70-100W mechanically.

Later,
Wolf
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Old 21st March 2012, 11:55 AM   #10
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Thank's a lot Wolf... I see that there is considerable difference between each driver, although being the same. I generally assume this to be a fail e quality control, no?

Meanwhile I have been searching a few other options for the subwoofer and it appears that the SEAS D1001-04 L26ROY would be also a good choice, which also fits my budget!

I am using UniBox to model the sub and I come out with a closed box:
Design by Vb and QPhysical Vb24,2lAbsorption, Qa20Leakage, Ql30Alpha, a3,389Vb25,7lFb46,05HzF350,12HzQtc0,649Response peak0,00dBPeak atnone

WHat do you guys think? I want a "stiff" bass but still have some little boominess... Generally I tend to like subwoofer with great "kick" but that can go low without being to boomy...
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