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I use my speakers not for reproduction but for output on a digital organ and bass gtar. I need to build some low end but for cheap. Traditionally organs can go down to 16hz or 8hz.
Garbage hifi speakers, which cost a billion, can't handle even 30hz. I need some big *** booty bass for a cheap price, can you help me in this build. The goal is to feel the bass from the organ or midi distorted bass gtar.
And not blow anything out, so protection is needed for the hifis I allready have too.
inappropriate image deleted
I use my speakers not for reproduction but for output on a digital organ and bass gtar. I need to build some low end but for cheap. Traditionally organs can go down to 16hz or 8hz.
Garbage hifi speakers, which cost a billion, can't handle even 30hz. I need some big *** booty bass for a cheap price, can you help me in this build. The goal is to feel the bass from the organ or midi distorted bass gtar.
And not blow anything out, so protection is needed for the hifis I allready have too.
inappropriate image deleted
The Matterhorn - Worlds Largest Subwoofer - YouTube
Call up Thomas Danley to get a quote for the above, more booty than you or hour house (or stadium) can handle.
Call up Thomas Danley to get a quote for the above, more booty than you or hour house (or stadium) can handle.
Hi mike,
What's the budget for amp, drivers, and other materials combined, and do you have the tools/skills to build your own boxes?
As a starting point: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-284
How many $5 10" woofers can you afford and fit in your "room?" Build a wall of them
Oh... and why not sell all your hifi stuff and buy/build sound reinforcement stuff instead? This might be a good time to consider switching your system to proper PA gear and blending that your "booty" bass project.
What's the budget for amp, drivers, and other materials combined, and do you have the tools/skills to build your own boxes?
As a starting point: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-284
How many $5 10" woofers can you afford and fit in your "room?" Build a wall of them
Oh... and why not sell all your hifi stuff and buy/build sound reinforcement stuff instead? This might be a good time to consider switching your system to proper PA gear and blending that your "booty" bass project.
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there's no real way to get deep bass on the cheap.
a lot of subs offer good bass repro but you would likely need a long throw sub to move alot of air to get what you need.. also a powerful enough amp to drive it.
like mdocod said we need a budget at least to be able to help.
if you got $50. or $500. makes a huge difference
a lot of subs offer good bass repro but you would likely need a long throw sub to move alot of air to get what you need.. also a powerful enough amp to drive it.
like mdocod said we need a budget at least to be able to help.
if you got $50. or $500. makes a huge difference
T3 Audio T200-12S4 12" 200 Watt Subwoofer 4 Ohm 269-086
32.22 each when buying 4 or more with over 12mm of Xmax on factory close out.
Buy EIGHT of them (not 1) put them in two boxes of 4 cubic feet each stuffed with poly fill--use 3/4" plywood (or OSB in a pinch) and make sure they are sealed. (Push on one cone and the other 3 cones should move) Put each box on one channel of your 100 watt per channel amp and you should be OK. Put one box in each corner to boost the low end (it will need it)
If they start making weird noises with pipe organ stuff--add more boxes to taste. Make sure that weird noise is not your amp clipping!
If you still want to pump 4Hz with your 100 watt per channel amp, build 4 boxes with 4 woofers each which would give each woofer (all 16 of them) around 12.5 watts each which should keep them alive. You should be able to reach 120+ dB of some sort of bass with that 100 watt amp. 4Hz bass will basically move air around with the cones jumping, Maybe stack two of the boxes on top of each other so your butt will couple to the vibration. It will help (ask Howard Stern)
32.22 each when buying 4 or more with over 12mm of Xmax on factory close out.
Buy EIGHT of them (not 1) put them in two boxes of 4 cubic feet each stuffed with poly fill--use 3/4" plywood (or OSB in a pinch) and make sure they are sealed. (Push on one cone and the other 3 cones should move) Put each box on one channel of your 100 watt per channel amp and you should be OK. Put one box in each corner to boost the low end (it will need it)
If they start making weird noises with pipe organ stuff--add more boxes to taste. Make sure that weird noise is not your amp clipping!
If you still want to pump 4Hz with your 100 watt per channel amp, build 4 boxes with 4 woofers each which would give each woofer (all 16 of them) around 12.5 watts each which should keep them alive. You should be able to reach 120+ dB of some sort of bass with that 100 watt amp. 4Hz bass will basically move air around with the cones jumping, Maybe stack two of the boxes on top of each other so your butt will couple to the vibration. It will help (ask Howard Stern)
Just get as many of those $5 woofers I linked to above as you can afford. Give them each 1-2ft^3 sealed box space. Use cheap ~3/4" OSB and 2x4s for box construction. (use 2x4s along inside corners as something to screw the OSB to, and as various wall braces). Fill boxes with polyfill.
Tell me the impedance of the other speakers you have all hooked up and how they are currently wired to you amps and I'll give you some component ideas to use as bass blockers for your mains and treble blockers for the wall o-booty.
Tell me the impedance of the other speakers you have all hooked up and how they are currently wired to you amps and I'll give you some component ideas to use as bass blockers for your mains and treble blockers for the wall o-booty.
i want ~20 pcs! but i don't want $500 shipping cost.
in terms of volume displacent linked to above $5*4pcs=$35*1pc..
Those 10 inch woofers look interesting
4mm of Xmax and these for specs.
Sealed, stuffed 28L/1cuft box and got the following: F3 37hz/90db@20W/Qtc 1.7. Not an optimal Q but that's powerful bass from 28L and it doesn't exceed xmax until 80W.
90dB for one is around 100dB for 10 of them. 37Hz F3 in a sealed box is decent so use OSB to keep up with the spirit of the thing. Wall of booty bass... if Xmax is exceed at 80 watts at 37Hz--that would be 20 watts at 18Hz and 5 watts at 9Hz (assuming way to many things) You'd need 10 or 20 of them to withstand any deep bass but starting at 10 would be a start.
I'm sure after Mike went through all the trouble of building a 10 woofer wall of booty, he'd pay more attention when playing through them. Sometimes when finishing a project, the happiness you feel is knowing you won't have to do that again.
4mm of Xmax and these for specs.
Sealed, stuffed 28L/1cuft box and got the following: F3 37hz/90db@20W/Qtc 1.7. Not an optimal Q but that's powerful bass from 28L and it doesn't exceed xmax until 80W.
90dB for one is around 100dB for 10 of them. 37Hz F3 in a sealed box is decent so use OSB to keep up with the spirit of the thing. Wall of booty bass... if Xmax is exceed at 80 watts at 37Hz--that would be 20 watts at 18Hz and 5 watts at 9Hz (assuming way to many things) You'd need 10 or 20 of them to withstand any deep bass but starting at 10 would be a start.
I'm sure after Mike went through all the trouble of building a 10 woofer wall of booty, he'd pay more attention when playing through them. Sometimes when finishing a project, the happiness you feel is knowing you won't have to do that again.
I guess one would have to find out what shipping prices would be... Thought PE shipped most orders over $100 free so maybe ordering 20 is the way to go.
Also... That car sub doesn't have 12.7mm Xmax. That's probably a P-P rating. The dead givaway is the 20mm long coil spec and the visually obvious overhung coil/magnet relationship. It's simply not possible to have an honest ~12mm Xmax on an overhung coil length of any less than ~30mm in the real world. (unless you collapse space in on itself and cause a rip in space time)
Also... That car sub doesn't have 12.7mm Xmax. That's probably a P-P rating. The dead givaway is the 20mm long coil spec and the visually obvious overhung coil/magnet relationship. It's simply not possible to have an honest ~12mm Xmax on an overhung coil length of any less than ~30mm in the real world. (unless you collapse space in on itself and cause a rip in space time)
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I'm new, and just curious here. Would you suggest that a 25 foot folded horn would meet the demand for low frequency and spl that mikee3333 wants?
I think I want to build this, but just to see if I can do it. In the end, I imagine that my wife will think that I should sell it, as it would be impossible to listen to without sending loud bass through every room in my house.
It's the CSS TRIO12HORNKIT, Creative Sound - Product Details
I think I want to build this, but just to see if I can do it. In the end, I imagine that my wife will think that I should sell it, as it would be impossible to listen to without sending loud bass through every room in my house.
It's the CSS TRIO12HORNKIT, Creative Sound - Product Details
Hi Alex,
I believe that a very large horn could do the job well. If simulations are accurate, a single TC 5400 in a tapped horn with a total horn length of ~50ft (probably going to have to fold this one a few times) and a total volume of around 150ft^3 would, on paper, have ~1000W Xmax limited Pe down to ~8hz. With room gain, I'd expect 125-135dB @ 8hz.
I believe that a very large horn could do the job well. If simulations are accurate, a single TC 5400 in a tapped horn with a total horn length of ~50ft (probably going to have to fold this one a few times) and a total volume of around 150ft^3 would, on paper, have ~1000W Xmax limited Pe down to ~8hz. With room gain, I'd expect 125-135dB @ 8hz.
Hi 50 dollars simply isn't enough to get you even to 20hz with a vent. It's out of the question quite honestly. Especially not for a full multi way speaker. Now for a subwoofer you're still well off the mark.
You can start by throwing 8hz out the window. You'll need to invest about $1000 in well-selected drivers, and you'll need a concrete bunker room. Just not realistic.
Your best bet is to use two vented 15s. The Dayton RSS390s are a good choice. Now you will need to use a very large enclosure for each one, and have very wide vents.
Don't worry about a high pass filter. Tune very low instead - i didn't model it but i'm guessing you want to tune around 13hz or lower. Model excursion though.
If you plan to incorporate other drivers, the RSS390s can probably be used very steeply crossed at 850hz to a SEOS-15. That would be ridiculously Hi-fi. However because of the massive metal cone breakup starting near 1.6khz and rising, you will need to use very steep slopes - 36 to 48db/octave acoustic is not out of the question, and maybe even a notch filter. A 3-way is probably a better bet but I don't know if you want to go that route.
You can start by throwing 8hz out the window. You'll need to invest about $1000 in well-selected drivers, and you'll need a concrete bunker room. Just not realistic.
Your best bet is to use two vented 15s. The Dayton RSS390s are a good choice. Now you will need to use a very large enclosure for each one, and have very wide vents.
Don't worry about a high pass filter. Tune very low instead - i didn't model it but i'm guessing you want to tune around 13hz or lower. Model excursion though.
If you plan to incorporate other drivers, the RSS390s can probably be used very steeply crossed at 850hz to a SEOS-15. That would be ridiculously Hi-fi. However because of the massive metal cone breakup starting near 1.6khz and rising, you will need to use very steep slopes - 36 to 48db/octave acoustic is not out of the question, and maybe even a notch filter. A 3-way is probably a better bet but I don't know if you want to go that route.
Get real. Deep bass and high power cost really big bucks. Physics. Anything you try and do in the cheap, will be a total waste of money. Spend 50 bucks a dinner, you wil enjoy it more and it will sound better. Save up.
8Hz you are out of your mind. That is for structure testing of rocket assemblies. Leave the 16 Hz for the live pipe organs. You can get REAL 30 Hz without spending your next child's college tuition.
8Hz you are out of your mind. That is for structure testing of rocket assemblies. Leave the 16 Hz for the live pipe organs. You can get REAL 30 Hz without spending your next child's college tuition.
Ahhhh....the miracle of multiple drivers!
My garage speakers are line arrays and I was amazed what 24 five inch woofers could do down low. Yes, it will do 20Hz with my 50 watt per channel amp (with power meters of course) not loudly but at least they won't blow. Each arrays runs 12 of the five inch woofers and although they have only 3mm of Xmax, running a dozen per speaker gives me bass response that is quite surprising.
Another guy used 24 of 3 inch full ranges ($1.50 each on closeout) and EQ'd them flat from 20Hz to 16KHz. They did not handle a lot of power at 20Hz but would reproduce 20 at low levels. I'm not saying to build subwoofers out of 3 inch full range speakers, just sealed boxes allow much greater wiggle room for those "I wonder what happens if" moments.
The point of that is by using large amounts of drivers, it will do things just by being run at very lower power in comparison. Bose did that with 18 4.5 inch full ranges with the 901 (and a lot of EQ)
In the real world, the high cost of wood, glue and screws (and whatever you finish them with) comes into play when using inexpensive drivers. Just the cost of shipping will kick your butt!
If I was a teenager again--I'd go about it this way. Get 20 of those 10 inchers to gain SPL and power handling--if they throw in free shipping. Then, to save on wood costs, save time cutting holes, make it small and light enough so I could move it by myself...this is what I would make.
20 ten inch woofers in a sealed box mounted face to face isobaric.
Instead of a 20 cubic foot box required to mount 20 woofers, I only need 5 cubic feet. Yes, I give up 6 dB of output but am more worried about power handling at ultra-low frequencies over massive SPL. My crew would think it was off the hook to have two woofers mounted to each other face to face and out of phase. (My son's friends love my isobaric face to face 15" sub so I checked)
Later on when I had the money--or need to get that 6dB "back" I have the option to build 3 more of the 5 cubic foot boxes and change from isobaric to sealed.
My garage speakers are line arrays and I was amazed what 24 five inch woofers could do down low. Yes, it will do 20Hz with my 50 watt per channel amp (with power meters of course) not loudly but at least they won't blow. Each arrays runs 12 of the five inch woofers and although they have only 3mm of Xmax, running a dozen per speaker gives me bass response that is quite surprising.
Another guy used 24 of 3 inch full ranges ($1.50 each on closeout) and EQ'd them flat from 20Hz to 16KHz. They did not handle a lot of power at 20Hz but would reproduce 20 at low levels. I'm not saying to build subwoofers out of 3 inch full range speakers, just sealed boxes allow much greater wiggle room for those "I wonder what happens if" moments.
The point of that is by using large amounts of drivers, it will do things just by being run at very lower power in comparison. Bose did that with 18 4.5 inch full ranges with the 901 (and a lot of EQ)
In the real world, the high cost of wood, glue and screws (and whatever you finish them with) comes into play when using inexpensive drivers. Just the cost of shipping will kick your butt!
If I was a teenager again--I'd go about it this way. Get 20 of those 10 inchers to gain SPL and power handling--if they throw in free shipping. Then, to save on wood costs, save time cutting holes, make it small and light enough so I could move it by myself...this is what I would make.
20 ten inch woofers in a sealed box mounted face to face isobaric.
Instead of a 20 cubic foot box required to mount 20 woofers, I only need 5 cubic feet. Yes, I give up 6 dB of output but am more worried about power handling at ultra-low frequencies over massive SPL. My crew would think it was off the hook to have two woofers mounted to each other face to face and out of phase. (My son's friends love my isobaric face to face 15" sub so I checked)
Later on when I had the money--or need to get that 6dB "back" I have the option to build 3 more of the 5 cubic foot boxes and change from isobaric to sealed.
Most car audio specs I've seen are created in a rift of the time-space continuum.
Beam me up, Scotty--at 1,000 watts
But Captain, can't even get half of that as the 30 amp fuse is going to blow!
No problem Scotty, just call it 1,000 watts peak then....
Here is an interesting article: http://www.pykett.org.uk/vlf_repro.htm
I will try those ceiling speakers when I have my own house
I will try those ceiling speakers when I have my own house
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