Would this set up blow up my smaller speakers?

[gioioi]

Hello all, Im new here This is the first time I set up a sound system with an amplifier, so I have a few questions
Here is my plan for the set up. All speakers are 4 ohm and have rsm Watt rating. Amp minimun ohm load is 4ohm in bridge mode I think the impedance is ok for the amp's safe running. But would the speakers be ok? All speakers have 200W rms in total which equal amp rms power. But, how is power distributed to each speaker? would the smaller speakers get more than 20W and blow up? Thanks for any input

[picowallspeaker]

I'm using for my tweeter section some tiny speaker rated 2W - 4Ω
and the woofer is said to sustain 180 W peaks .
Normally I drive them with a 50 W amplifier , but they're rather lousy to move ,indeed the sensibility is around 85 dB/W/m .
Of course the tiny one won't get full audio band .
How are you going to match speaker's sensibilities and make them working in their passband range ?

[gioioi]

Thanks for your input, so the small speaker will be ok I guess. And I also worry about the sound quality. I forgot to mention, this is a car audio set up. The two small speakers are 4" 2way coaxial (REAR left and right). Each of the bigger speakers actually are the crossovers (passive and preset frequency), tweeter and mid range for Front left and right. I m new to this field so I m not sure if it works because my amp only has 2 channel.

[picowallspeaker]

Hi ! Been waking up early ....
Never 'played' with car audio ...too little environment !
Normally a bridged amplifier puts more power but it's mono .
So to have two channels you need two amplifiers ...there's no 'subtraction stereo convolver ' action to do so ...
And what is the channel that needs a lot of power and is mono ?
yes ,it's the subwoofer : indeed , usually those amplifiers incorporate an electronic crossover with low frequency cut to do that job ,then you switch to 'bridge mode' and put the 1000 W hungry beast to pump the bass .

I recommend you to do as good s(ci)ense does : use each channel with
one fullrange or coaxial speaker or speaker system with its own dividing network. Midranges and tweeters are dimensioned for their working bandwidth
(a woofer don't care ..) and cannot stand what they are not designed to do.
If you feel you need lots of power ,just stick a big and powerful speaker at the output of the bridged amplifier ,quality and strength would be better,

[mdocod]

This doesn't make any sense... Why would you wire all your mains up in series/parallel and power them by a mono amp configuration (bridged). You'll be listening to MONO sound as a result.

I also don't understand how a speaker is a crossover. A crossover is a crossover and a speaker is a speaker. What?

You should have the speakers on the left side of the car attached to the "left" channel of the amplifier, and the speakers on the right side, attached to the "right" side of the amplifier.

To take it a step further, if you really want to balance the power between the different size speakers better, you need a 4 channel amp.

[gioioi]

Oh so when I bridge two channels, they turns into mono? I didnt now this, thank you for pointing that out.
Sorry for the confusion on the diagram above,. The two big speakers are component speakers. Instead of drawing all the components, I just draw one to make it looks simple.

[chris661]

He said above that the larger speaker represents a crossover and other drive units.

Right, the set-up you've shown will work. You'll get sound to all the speakers and the amplifier will be happy.
Now, taking each speaker to be a 4ohm resistive load, when the amplifier is going full tilt, each string of speakers will be taking 100w (the current, and therefore power, is split in half). So the 20w speakers will be taking 50w each (each one takes half the voltage and equal current, so power halves).
The larger speakers would be fine.

For the reasons above, I'd go stereo.

[Brian Oshman]

Here is a better way of doing it with the equipment you have. Since your larger pair is actually a separates set with a crossover and they will be up front, connect those to the amp in stereo.

Connect the 4" coax for the rear to the radio deck. You will want the rears to be fill and the deck will push 20w per channel to power those. This will also give you fader control so you can balance the front and blend in the rear.

As you go you can add more components but it would sound much better if you connect it as I suggested. Running the speakers as you have in your diagram they will run full range and the 4" will clack when turned up to drive the front speakers. The 4" will run out of steam first.

You want the staging up front and the rear fill to just pull the sound toward you a little. You don't sit with your back to live music, do you? Well then the same applies in the car or any listening space.

Eventually you will want to add multiple amps and electronic crossovers and subwoofers.

[wwwn]

Originally Posted by Brian Oshman

Here is a better way of doing it with the equipment you have. Since your larger pair is actually a separates set with a crossover and they will be up front, connect those to the amp in stereo.

Connect the 4" coax for the rear to the radio deck. You will want the rears to be fill and the deck will push 20w per channel to power those. This will also give you fader control so you can balance the front and blend in the rear.

As you go you can add more components but it would sound much better if you connect it as I suggested. Running the speakers as you have in your diagram they will run full range and the 4" will clack when turned up to drive the front speakers. The 4" will run out of steam first.

You want the staging up front and the rear fill to just pull the sound toward you a little. You don't sit with your back to live music, do you? Well then the same applies in the car or any listening space.

Eventually you will want to add multiple amps and electronic crossovers and subwoofers.

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[mdocod]

Originally Posted by wwwn

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