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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stockholm
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I am leaning towards using just one woofer, I think it will be enough for a TV speaker, it will also keep the cost down. Since this is a learning project I want it to be cheap and then if I succeed sell the speakers to someone.
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stockholm
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Suggestion of a better woofer than the peerless I stated earlier? Using vifa DX25 tweeter.
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: alsace
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Quote:
Zaph|Audio a few € more than the peerless but if you are able to create a well designed filter they will make a highly accurate speaker. Available here in EU: PLUS - Elektronik Lautsprecher & Elektronik - Onlineshop Haut-parleur 16 cm Fountek FW168 (8 ohm)
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crazyhub |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stockholm
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I will check this out, thanks crazyhub.
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stockholm
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Now I have decided for these drivers: H1189-06 27TDFC or
http://www.europe-audio.com/document...X25TG09-04.pdf and: H1215-08 CA18RNX Comments on this? It will be a 2-way bass reflex speaker I will try to build for a friend of mine. I want the port forward to enable use close to back wall if necessary. The woofer seem to have a rather low sensitivity, maybe a problem when BFC is done if I want sensitivity at least 87dB? These woofers (4 different): http://www.europe-audio.com/document...8w-8424g00.pdf Any experience from those? Last edited by Starre; 11th February 2012 at 10:31 AM. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Your last list consist of drivers that are 2x or more expensive than your first choice. Nothing wrong with that, but you should first set a price goal and then ask for advice.
The CA18RNX + 27TDFC combo sounds good, and SEAS itself published a design: Mimir IMHO I wouldn't use the XT25 with a 6.5" mid-bass because this tweeter should be used with an higher crossover point that most 6.5" driver are able to hold without beaming. Some designers think that the XT25 should be used from 3K Hz. Check Zaph site for specs and mini-review: tweetermishmash I don't have experience with the 18W8424 driver but Zaph tested the "brother" 18W8434 (bigger voice coil I think) and seems to quite like it: Zaph|Audio blog. A speaker with a 18W84x4 and the 27TDFC should be a good project. Last thing is about the port (and speaker) placement. A port doesn't need big space to operate correctly, 20 cm are enough. The problem is that if you place a speaker less than 20 cm near the wall you'll have more bass than designed and a not good midrange. The first problem can be avoided designing for a BSC less than 6dB, but you don't have a solution for the second problem, as it arises from a sum of direct and reflected sound. Depending on the frequency, the sum can be in or out of phase, and if the wall is near the speaker, the reflected sound isn't too less in SPL in respect to the direct sound, so it is not negligible. You could place damping material, but for low (and mid) frequencies no material is really effective in absorbing the sound without big thickness. Ralf |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stockholm
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Thanks Ralf, good comments. My concern with the Seas CARNX is rather low sensitivity, I want it to be a rather easy load for the amp. Probably best is to use a 2.5-way to get better sensitivity but the price gets too high then. I am rather sure I will use the Vifa DX25 since it is cheap and according to many sounds good. I now just need a 6.5 inch woofer that is rather sensitive to match. I am not sure if I should go vented or sealed yet.
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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Go to an easy load rather high sensitivity. 85dB of sensitivity is not so bad.
I think a 27TDC is a better match with a CA18RNX than a DX25, a good tweeter too. The mimir kit is a good advice. SEAS is a good manufacturer of speaker. If you want a lower price kit, you also have Links If you want better sound,very affordable, look at this 3 ways : Tarkus - undefinition |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Maybe it's time to recap.
Vented vs closed. That should be your first thing to consider, because choosing one configuration can eliminate some drivers. Not many 6.5" drivers are best suited for a closed box (there was a discussion about that some time ago here, see 6,5" to 7" midwoofer for sealed enclosure). Two drivers come to mind that work good in a closed box: a Seas CA18RLY and a Dayton RS180. Also the Peerless 830657 can be used in a closed box. Placement. Putting a box near the wall is always a bad thing, but in case you have to, don't use a x.5 speaker configuration, because it is by design a full BSC, so at the end you'll have to much bass. Price (woofer). The Peerless 830657 is hard to beat, and in the Tarkus project I pointed some posts ago there is IMHO a good crossover that address also the breakup of the driver (in this respect I'm suspicious about the other project suggested by jerome69). The Tarkus crossover can be a starting point in case you'll use the 830657. For a higher price there are lot of possibilities. Price (tweeter). The DX25 has probably a good price/performance ratio and can work also at 2KHz. The 27TDFC costs more but works also better. Design or not. If you want to try to design yourself, then choose a "simple" woofer (the Seas and the SS Discovery). Ralf |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stockholm
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I want to design myself trying to learn as much as possible, I will buy a microphone to be able to measure, I have Holmimpulse on my computer (not sure what it does lol), what do I need? can I use the sound card in my computer or do I need something else? I know of a program called Basta! (swedish) the demo version, been playing around with it a little.
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