Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Questions about veneering
Questions about veneering
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st September 2003, 02:05 AM   #11
Erik is offline Erik  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NY Metro area
Quote:
Guss asked:
could you refer me to a good place where I could buy some mahogany veneer online ?
The classic veneer shop is Constantines. They have been in business since God knows when and have been know for high quality stuff. The old man closed down the shop in Brooklyn years ago but I understand his son carries on the tradition from a shop in Florida.


http://www.constantines.com/

I have purchased some very nice raw veneers from an Ebay user named "thouge", but I haven't seen her around much recently.
]
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st September 2003, 02:10 AM   #12
Pete Mazz is offline Pete Mazz
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bucks County, Pa
I always veneer first then do driver cutouts. But I always make a template of the baffle on scrap and use a pattern bit or collar guide to route the driver holes. Once the template is correct, all you have to worry about is depth of cut for flush mounted drivers.

TapeEase

B&B

Oakwood

Pete
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st September 2003, 03:10 AM   #13
mwmkravchenko is offline mwmkravchenko  Canada
Mark Kravchenko
diyAudio Member
 
mwmkravchenko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Perth Canada
Questions about veneering
Lightbulb One more thought

On the subject ofglueing down veneer use a small paint roller to spread out the glue. Pour a small amount in the middle of the cabinet surface ( or veneer surface ) and spread it out in a thin even coat. Two thin coats are much better than one thick one. It may take longer but it will actually dry faster and ensure a more even coverage of the suface. Oh yeh coat one way and after it dries coat at 90 degrees to the first way. More even coverage and less possibility of creating glue lines.

Mark

Cabinetmaker untill the f@#$%king ex sold my shop!!!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd September 2003, 01:08 PM   #14
elektratig is offline elektratig
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: USA
Default Constantine's

I did my first veneering just the other week -- a sealed downfiring Tempest sub -- using yellow glue and an iron. I bought the veneer (flexible paperbacked) online at Constantine's. Shipped the next day, showed up shortly thereafter. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd September 2003, 01:29 PM   #15
ScottRHinson is offline ScottRHinson  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Austin
Send a message via AIM to ScottRHinson
Default spreading glue...

When I use the iron on method of veneering I have a plastic glue spreader I like to use. I have a 3" wide plastic putty knife that I cut 3/16" deep notches in, spaced 1/4" (roughly) apart. Made the spreader on my table saw. I push the glue around with that for a while, then I use a plain chip brush to even it out. I have to work fairly quickly but the process works well.

If the veneer wrinkles a bit I mist it down with water (non glue side) before I hit it with the iron. I only mist what I'm about to iron. I think the water helps get the heat to the glue too, because those sections seem to glue down faster.

I've also used some of the cold press glues without a vacuum press by waiting until they get very tacky, then putting the veneer down. I then use a veneer hammer to press the veneer down completely. I have seen some older panels bubble with this method, but those were on speakers that I did right after starting with this method so it could be a lack of practice.

I agree that getting contact cement on flat so that imperfections of the glue don't telegraph through is dificult at best. I wish I had the capability to spray it on well.

Scott
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd September 2003, 05:38 AM   #16
Flames is offline Flames
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Can anyone direct me to a supplier of veneers and accessories in Sydney Australia?

I am having difficulty in locating anything except the iron-on pre glued veneers and I have heard variable reports about success levels with them.

Any assistance appreciated.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th September 2003, 05:24 AM   #17
creek is offline creek  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ohio
I have tried three ways, hide glue, yellow glue and contact cement.
I like contact cement the best. especialy for paperbacked.
Hide glue was recomended to me by a guy at woodcraft. It stinks, takes a long time to dry and doesn't work at all in humid weather.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th January 2004, 02:42 AM   #18
tktran is offline tktran  Australia
Account Disabled
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth
Hi all,

I've just finished veneering some box floorstanding speakers.

Pete Mazz's iron/PVA glue recipe works very well. It has been over a week and there are no bubbles or warping of any kind.
Thanks Pete!

I followed Erik's advice and purchased the Shurline 3" trim roller. It's a touchup/paint roller but works ok for glue. Some of the fibres came off and stuck to the substrate but I could easily pick them out. This made rolling the glue on far easier and faster than a metal glue spreader that I previously used.

I used 2400 mm x 1200 mm x 0.6mm raw Tasmanian Myrtle (Australian) timber veneer. This is a large sheet but on closer inspection it is made of leaves approximately 1100mm long x 170mm wide. Since my speaker panels are wider than 170mm, each veneered sheet is actually 2 leaves.

I used cross-linking PVA glue, which claims to be stronger than normal PVA but the downside is that it sets faster (20min) so you have to work fast! I can also testify that MDF absorbs glue readily- 2 layers is a minimum.

Also I did not iron the veneer directly- instead I ironed over a cotton bedsheet. Any old cotton T-shirt or spare sheets should be fine- I highly recommend this to prevent your veneer from scorching. (my bedsheet was scorched at several spots, thus saving the veneer)

I didn't have sufficient clamps, so I used about 50kg of MDF panels. I followed the glue manufacturers instructions, and only clamped for 30mins, but waited for a few hours to dry before sanding and trimming.

However,

Within a few days of trimming and sanded the edges, I discovered that the veneer had shrunk. Not a lot, but at least ~1mm along my 222mm wide front baffle. Now the veneer does not fully extend to the edges of the MDF. The next time I try veneering I will wait at least a few days after glueing and shrinking before trimming and sanding excess veneer. I had no idea that veneer could shrink! Maybe this is due to the hot iron (expansion/contraction?), or maybe it was due to the glue?

Second, splits along veneer leaves (where the leaves had been book-matched and joined at the factory) developed. These run along the complete length of the veneer. The splits are about 1mm, and is probably due to the same shrinking problem described above. It may also be due to my ironing method- to remove the bubbles and flatten the curled veneer (glue to veneer causes it to curl) I ironed from the centreline towards the edges.

I wonder if this can be remedied by using masking tape to hold the leaves together? Actually I did this but took it off prior to claminping. What on earth was I thinking?
. Next time I will leave the tape on for a least a few days.

My only concern is that the glue on the masking take will stain the veneer during the ironing?

Has anyone tried veneering tape?
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/gclk-6.htm

No idea where to buy such a thing, but certainly it seems to be ideal since you leave it on permanently.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th January 2004, 05:42 PM   #19
tktran is offline tktran  Australia
Account Disabled
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Perth
The split is a fraction of a millimetre, and not visible from a ~1m. However at close range it is clearly visible. In the photo below the shine in the midline is due to the reflection of the camera flash from the dried PVA glue, and shows the approximate width of the split.

Why would this split? And how would I prevent this in future?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg front baffle (closeup) #2.jpg (76.1 KB, 806 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th January 2004, 06:39 PM   #20
Sandy H. is offline Sandy H.  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Sandy H.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC - USA
Default Similar Result

I built a pair of speakers and veneered unbacked ash using contact cement. Thy both looked fine at first. I left one in the non-heated garage (in winter) and the other inside the house and left for a week around Christmas. Upon coming back, the one in the garage still looked fine, but the one in the house had split at seams, similar to your result. Once I brought the other speaker inside, it also split. I had left the veneer out for about a month prior to get used to the environment, but probably the change in humidity inside from Nov to Dec was significant. I plan to veneer during more constant humidity next time, if possible.

Sandy.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Questions about veneeringHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
some veneering questions JLC7 Multi-Way 8 14th May 2008 03:46 PM
Veneering the Ariel RobPhill33 Multi-Way 51 30th December 2006 01:24 PM
My 1st time veneering... trusound Multi-Way 8 2nd August 2006 01:44 PM
Speaker box veneering questions ocaukrell Everything Else 0 26th January 2006 01:55 AM
Help with Veneering Hefty Multi-Way 5 6th February 2004 08:45 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:05 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.00%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio
Wiki