2 way electronic crossover modification

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I have this 2 way electronic crossover designed for HT subwoofer that I want to modifie the cut of high & low frecuencies because I want to use for classic 2 way loudspeaker (for example cut for highs 2Khz).
 

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Hi,

You just make all the capacitors a lot smaller, but FWIW no way will
you end up with a c/o suitable for a high quality classic 2-way.

rgds, sreten.

Shown is the transfer functions of a quality two way,
functions are some form of second order electrical but the
c/o 4th order L/R acoustic combined with driver responses :

SR71-modeled-transferfunction.gif
 
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Thanks for input, the pasive crossover for tweeter (MB Electronics MCD25 titanium-dome) is crossed over at 2kHz and 2nd order, for active crossover will be the same order & frecuency? the loudspeaker is Hales Two Signature with two Dynaudio 17W75EXT woofers (any recommendation for active filter frecuency & order?) & one MB Electronics MCD25 titanium-dome tweeter are mounted toward the top of the enclosure and configured in a D'Appolito arrangement.

Specifications (Stereophile)
Description: Two-way sealed-box dynamic loudspeaker with two 7" bass-midrange drivers and one 1" titanium-dome tweeter. Crossover frequency: 2kHz. Impedance: 4 ohms nominal, 2.9 ohms minimum. Frequency response: 40–26kHz ±3dB anechoic (in-room –—dB point will be lower). Sensitivity: 87dB (distance and input power not specified, but assumed to be 1W/1m).

Thanks in advance for help
 
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The loudspeakers aren't mine, my friend who owns the Hales have one stereo power amp Thereshold 50W RMS class A & another stereo power amp Accuphase also 50-60W RMS class A as you & I know the Hales needs more power to sound good, my friend don't want other amps in class B, AB or digitals and loves the Hales sound only needs a little more of power in amps and one possibility to show my friend is go active: it's only a test so I don't need an accurate active crossover it's only to see if going active gain enough to power the Hales, if the test give results my friend will take a decision: or change the amplification or to buy a serious active crossover like BSS or similar.
 
Hi,

Hales Audio System Two Signature loudspeaker | Stereophile.com

FWIW going active with a 2 way will barely change maximum
levels and this will be even less so with a low impedance MTM.

Class A and low impedances do not mix, unless the amplifier
can resort to Class B. If it can't (its single ended) then 50W
into 8 ohms is going to drop to something about 15W here.

The required amplifier power ratio for a c/o point of 2KHz is
an arguable point, but with 50W on the two bass/mids, IMO
15W is more than enough for the treble, and anything more
won't affect how loud it goes, the bass/mid will simply clip.

(If reality here is 50w/8R pure class A on the bass/mid
being only around 15W, 4W for the treble is about right.)

IMO its a bad idea, it won't work, and the c/o will be wrong.

Anyone who knows their class A amplifiers IMO here would
simply state some advanced/enhanced form of class A is
required that does low impedance loads well, inevitably.

rgds, sreten.

Bi-wiring is possible, so that means bi-amping is also possible,
but the two amplifiers need to have the same gain. Biamping
with class A moreorless will give very near the increase in
volume a fully active arrangement would, if you high pass
the treble amplifier with a small input coupling capacitor.
 
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I forgot:
keep 2000 hz as c/o frequency of course.

You'll need also to implement some baffle step compensation.
It can be done at line level.
You can find how on the same web site. E.S.P.

Bafle step before the active crossover? this is the correct schematic & values?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
I put it after crossover.

You can play with C value, depending on baffle width and taste.

Check the class A amps are push pull and not single ended.(Sreten agreed)

I use an active set up using 3 x 25w classA push pull amps (Pass F5).

Though my drivers are not low impedance and have 90db efficiency.
 
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I put it after crossover.

You can play with C value, depending on baffle width and taste.

Check the class A amps are push pull and not single ended.(Sreten agreed)

I use an active set up using 3 x 25w classA push pull amps (Pass F5).

Though my drivers are not low impedance and have 90db efficiency.

So your advice is a 3 way active crossover with 3 stero amps Pass F5?
 
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Joined 2009
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Hi,

Hales Audio System Two Signature loudspeaker | Stereophile.com

FWIW going active with a 2 way will barely change maximum
levels and this will be even less so with a low impedance MTM.

Class A and low impedances do not mix, unless the amplifier
can resort to Class B. If it can't (its single ended) then 50W
into 8 ohms is going to drop to something about 15W here.

The required amplifier power ratio for a c/o point of 2KHz is
an arguable point, but with 50W on the two bass/mids, IMO
15W is more than enough for the treble, and anything more
won't affect how loud it goes, the bass/mid will simply clip.

(If reality here is 50w/8R pure class A on the bass/mid
being only around 15W, 4W for the treble is about right.)

IMO its a bad idea, it won't work, and the c/o will be wrong.

Anyone who knows their class A amplifiers IMO here would
simply state some advanced/enhanced form of class A is
required that does low impedance loads well, inevitably.

rgds, sreten.

Bi-wiring is possible, so that means bi-amping is also possible,
but the two amplifiers need to have the same gain. Biamping
with class A moreorless will give very near the increase in
volume a fully active arrangement would, if you high pass
the treble amplifier with a small input coupling capacitor.

Thanks for the input, isn't possible to bi-amping because separate filters have two connections with a jumper for bi-wiring or bi-amping but in these filters I suppose it's soldered inside the filter because when used without jumpers I connected one or the other binding post and always sounds the tweeter & woofers.:mad:
 
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Joined 2009
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I put it after crossover.

You can play with C value, depending on baffle width and taste.

Check the class A amps are push pull and not single ended.(Sreten agreed)

I use an active set up using 3 x 25w classA push pull amps (Pass F5).

Though my drivers are not low impedance and have 90db efficiency.

No it's not an advice.
Just my actual system.
Delicate but not very loud.

There are a difference of 3 dBs between Hales & your system, can be enough 25W for Hales, what is the nominal impedance of your loudspeakers?
 
My three drivers are 8 ohms.
Anyway, when i want to play loud, i use a 100w class AB fo the woofer
(until 300hz).

Finally I am with Sreten.
You will not get really more dynamics going active (or biamping)
because a 2000hz c/o point will not allow to share equally power between the two ways.

A c/o at 250/300hz would do it better. Like between a woofer and mid/high. Which is not your case.
 
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