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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hong Kong
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i start learning all those electronic and speaker design..and a bit about horns..etc..from 3 weeks ago.. i think i am ready to build my first speaker
i am using Maxx2 and Grand slamm (just sold) , i had JBL everest dd66000, but not impressed, part of the reason it is till small to fill my room. listening space is around 850/900 sq ft, listen to most type of music, (least for vocal), always enjoy very dynamic , very transparent, fast transient, (i suppose we all are) i enjoy to feel the 11ft or much deeper sound stage.., very wide.., tonal preference always at a bit of cool side, but not too warm. i wish to invest not more than one yr, to come up with my own speaker which at least better than the Maxx2, i suppose it is not that hard, or i am a dreamer it will be horn, and it is very likely to be E-Jmlc 300 horn, couple with 4 bass drivers many questions...
i have a few good powerful amp, but they seem to be too powerful for mid and hf..horn, however i should not care about that at this stage summing up, it would be nice to have some more advices - mid upper crossover frequency range, tweeter choices, drivers selections horn preference at this stage is E-JMLC 300 merry Christmas for all of u..hahahahaha Last edited by hahayan; 24th December 2011 at 08:32 AM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Romania
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Hi, if you want to throw big bucks at such a system, take your time and read Lynn's Olson thread "Beyond the Ariel" on this forum. It starts with considering a coaxial unit (woofer and compression driver) and then starts discussing various compression drivers and horns, as well as woofer topologies in a 2 or 3 way system. It's a long thread but very informative, I've learned a lot about speaker design from there. After reading that you'll have a better idea on what you need/want and how to get it. Also Garry Dahl has completed a system based on that thread and you can find it documented somewhere near the end of it.
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hong Kong
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Quote:
Last edited by hahayan; 24th December 2011 at 01:42 PM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Romania
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Yeah, lot's of good info there. There are loads of discussions about constant directivity, diffraction effects, the importance of low distortions, how to get most of the frequency graphs you read, but also there are detailed discussions on Radian compression drivers, 18Sound CD's and woofers, Tone Tubby's, you will find lots of stuff there. Also, various waveguide/horn profiles are discussed.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hong Kong
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"Lynn's Olson thread "Beyond the Ariel""...omg..over 500 pages..
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: US
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Beyma: TPL 150H
PHL Audio: 3040, with DDS Horn: DMB 10N Pro 18Sound 15W500, with DDS Horn: DVB 15N Pro Large aperiodic enclosures for the mid and bass. Subwoofer*s* based on Precision Devices: PD2150
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perspective is everything |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hong Kong
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: US
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You could use multiple's of these: Scan Speak 29001 Flow Resistance Vent 296-546 This is nothing more than some "lossy" rockwool fiber-board in a very shallow "cup" with a grill. You could diy this yourself with ease. As for use it depends on the application, but often a surface area of "venting" is equal to about 1/2 to 2/3rd's the area of the driver and typically placed directly "behind" the drivers (on the rear panel of the loudspeaker). Too little and the effect is low, too much and you'll start to get pressure loss as a cardioid at lower freq.s (depending on box shape and size)..
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perspective is everything Last edited by ScottG; 24th December 2011 at 07:32 PM. |
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