There are many spectrum analyser softwares around that enable you to see the speaker and room response curve; some even allow you to save this curve as a file.
Does anybody know of some software that can process a wave file of your favourite music and give it a frequency response the inverse of what you just measured your room and speakers to be. You could then burn this processed to CD and provided you only sat in your favourite listening position, you would have a much improved response.
I know you could use Cool Edit for example, and put in the required inverse response manually, but I am talking about something that avoids all that fiddly stuff.
1/ Measure room & speakers
2/ Process chosen file.
3/ Congratulate yourself.
Does anybody know of some software that can process a wave file of your favourite music and give it a frequency response the inverse of what you just measured your room and speakers to be. You could then burn this processed to CD and provided you only sat in your favourite listening position, you would have a much improved response.
I know you could use Cool Edit for example, and put in the required inverse response manually, but I am talking about something that avoids all that fiddly stuff.
1/ Measure room & speakers
2/ Process chosen file.
3/ Congratulate yourself.
Circlotron said:
You wouldn't need to bother with the intermediate step of burning a new CD ( actually you would have to reburn all your CDs or at least the ones you really cared about). Essentially all you need is an equalizer, probably parametric, in your system. At least that would take care of equallizing out the response irregularities of the speaker.
Trying to equalize out the room response is problematical for a number of different reasons, non of which I could explain at 7:00 a.m. with only a single cup of coffee yet consumed.
Bill,
I tried the burning techniques a few years back.
The results were inconclusive. I believe reburning back to 16 bits was probably not a very good thing.
I am currently setting up a Behringer rig which does essentially the same thing (as noted by others) which should be very interesting.
I believe a larger number of bits (than 16 for non HDCD red book audio) is required if you want to do manipulations on the signal.
Another problem is that room and speaker issues likely vary with signal level and there is probably intermodulation as well. Does that stop us from trying - hell no!
Try the CD work - I think you will find it interesting and it will give you a reference to work from. It is very easy and the cost is very low. Another thing you could try is to set up a dual channel speaker with "digital crossover" by using one channel + amp for the one speaker. That is the other function of the Behringer unit I have selected.
Petter
I tried the burning techniques a few years back.
The results were inconclusive. I believe reburning back to 16 bits was probably not a very good thing.
I am currently setting up a Behringer rig which does essentially the same thing (as noted by others) which should be very interesting.
I believe a larger number of bits (than 16 for non HDCD red book audio) is required if you want to do manipulations on the signal.
Another problem is that room and speaker issues likely vary with signal level and there is probably intermodulation as well. Does that stop us from trying - hell no!
Try the CD work - I think you will find it interesting and it will give you a reference to work from. It is very easy and the cost is very low. Another thing you could try is to set up a dual channel speaker with "digital crossover" by using one channel + amp for the one speaker. That is the other function of the Behringer unit I have selected.
Petter
more info
For more info on this topic see avsforum
Specifically a guide to DIY software room equalisation:
http://www.mooneyass.com/DRC/DRC.html
For more info on this topic see avsforum
Specifically a guide to DIY software room equalisation:
http://www.mooneyass.com/DRC/DRC.html
The reason it's not a digital magic wand is that the effects of your room are not (in general) a simple modification of the frequency response.
If you take, say, a single drum hit and play it through the speakers, what you hear is that drum hit with its frequency response (mostly) intact, followed by a second or two of reverberation.
Just as you can't add reverb to a signal by altering its frequency response with a graphic equaliser, neither can you take it away. Adjusting the continuous sine-wave response to fix the problems in the frequency domain will have no significant effect in the time domain.
If you have a particularly bad room (e.g. two hard, parallel walls) it will have a resonance at a particular frequency. In that case, putting a notch in the frequency reponse is worthwhile, simply to avoid exciting that resonance. This isn't the same thing as fixing the original problem, or somehow pre-compensating for its effects.
Cheers
IH
If you take, say, a single drum hit and play it through the speakers, what you hear is that drum hit with its frequency response (mostly) intact, followed by a second or two of reverberation.
Just as you can't add reverb to a signal by altering its frequency response with a graphic equaliser, neither can you take it away. Adjusting the continuous sine-wave response to fix the problems in the frequency domain will have no significant effect in the time domain.
If you have a particularly bad room (e.g. two hard, parallel walls) it will have a resonance at a particular frequency. In that case, putting a notch in the frequency reponse is worthwhile, simply to avoid exciting that resonance. This isn't the same thing as fixing the original problem, or somehow pre-compensating for its effects.
Cheers
IH
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