|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
|
Hello
I just bought a pair of 2way speaker - bic dv62si.Is there any other way to improve the sound quality of this speakers?and how. Thank you in advance. |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
In my experience the best way to make speakers sound better is to improve the quality of the signal they are getting.
What kind of amp are you using? |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
|
I'm using the trends 10.1 amp. the reason why is this speaker produce excessively bright and a little no warm on mids range and no bottom end.
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
When I hear the term "warm" I generally associate that with even ordered harmonic distortion, like that from a tube amp. I don't generally expect to get a "warm" performance from a solid state amp, and I wouldn't expect a speaker to introduce said distortion either, especially at the lower sort of listening levels expected from a 6WPC amp.
I'd be tempted to pull the drivers and have a look in the box at what sort of crossover components are being used... It's possible that all they have done is slap a cap on the tweeter and left the woofer to free range the whole situation, which would cause a fairly annoying on-axis brightness in the ~4-10K range more than likely. It's also likely that the tweeter is anywhere from 3-6db more efficient than the woofer, so if they didn't pad it down with a resistor the system would sound overly bright. Depending on the crossover point they have chosen, an upgrade to a steeper x-over and a lower x-over frequency may also be worth considering. Since you aren't going to be driving these units very hard with that little amp, you could probably get away with dropping the crossover point quite a ways which may help eliminate some on axis brightness from the woofer. If they have the thing crossed at like 4-6K (wouldn't surprise me) then working on the crossover will make the biggest difference IMO. If you have a router and a proper rabbit joint cutting tool you might consider flush mounting those drivers. I would probably do so by using a piece of 1/4" thick piece of wood, with cutouts for the drivers, just glued to the front of the box. I would want to use a round-over or beveled transition to the tweeter flange face (since the 1/4" will probably be a bit on the thick side for the tweeter flange). That may calm down some of the bright spots. |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
|
I'm going to open that speaker and let u know what xover and detailed parts they put.
Thanks and more power to u. |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Deal over at slickdeals on a BIC PL-200 | Kahooli | Everything Else | 0 | 16th November 2011 06:31 PM |
| RAAL 70-10D and Supravox 215 sign bic | nirvana | Planars & Exotics | 3 | 20th May 2009 05:12 PM |
| BIC Venturi V52 crossovers... | InspectorExacto | Multi-Way | 0 | 2nd January 2009 10:46 AM |
| FS: BIC 150W subwoofer plate amp | sphinx | Swap Meet | 3 | 8th December 2008 01:33 PM |
| BIC 960 tonearm eff.mass | percy | Analogue Source | 8 | 8th August 2006 10:12 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.08107 seconds (73.70% PHP - 26.30% MySQL) with 10 queries |