Apollo Construction Diary

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My 2 cents..

(having thought about this for years now)

A metallic paint should be sourced from a metallic color, OR actually be metallic. Basically variations on silver, either lighter in color or darker. If you want another color that's metallic - it should look and feel like an actual metallic anodized finish.

Ex. the red and blue are overwhelming - they make me want to eat candy. (..I like them, but do they have that expensive look? Avantgarde Acoustic is a good example - they just don't have quite that *look* of luxury to me, and that's even with the nice gloss-black integration.) The "pearl" is difficult to tell with the photo (..it's always difficult with whites, and usually anything white needs to be solid white). Now the "black" or rather graphite color - yeah, that's the ticket.

Still, it doesn't really matter.. It only matters what the customer wants. On the basis of small volume production, CUSTOM (or is that "bespoke"? - which seems to have migrated from the world of clothing fashion), is often what "seals the deal".
 
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diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
Nice observations Scott and some of that aligns with my own thinking.

What I had trouble deciding on was showing two extremes of the scale. You've got the subtle black and white at one end and then the red and blue at the other. Your right that one of the attractions here is you pick your own colour but you do need something to show to get the imagination going to start with.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
My speakers will be matte white with matte black accents, mostly because I have white furniture, my opinion is to think twice what color u use, for me red and blue is too much, you put an extraordinary quality work in those boxes,don't ruin it whith candy colours :confused:

I wouldn't say ruined because its subjective. The idea is to have a range of colours to show on completed speakers so folks can see them in the flesh. If they like what they hear the finish is ultimately up to them and just as you've done most people would match it with their decor which will usually mean black or white but I think its important to also show strong daring colours because some will be looking for that too.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
If you love painting that will change if you go near Candys they are very difficult to do right.

Charcoal metallic is also nice one for speakers.

I've worked with them before and consistency is the key. Disciplined spraying is the way. Keep the pattern tight, gun distance constant and your good. Not spraying enough coats is a factor too. It depends on how deep the candy is but for darker colours I'd go 3 or 4 and lighter would be 5 or 6. This will ensure your getting the correct coverage and an even finish.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
The Apollo parts are all sprayed and ready for finishing. Won't be long before these are complete and I'll post back with a few shots.

Had a quick play around on the test baffle to see how the deep red candy would come out. Still needs sanding out and buffing but looks nice in the flesh if not so subtle.

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
The plug for the mould is now finished. As you can see its very shiny and should give a nice release along with a great surface finish. Looking forward to casting the first proper baffle out of resin.

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
Whoa!!! Epic paint job!!!
Mind we ask what materials u used?

Paint and spray gun?

Heya Gravedigger and thanks.

The paints used are standard acrylics type often used by automotive refinishers. If we're talking exact brands I believe the primer and clearcoat are both from Nexa Autocolour but I often use Upol too with good results. And the basecoat/colourcoat are mixed by a local small specialist supplier.

I use a few guns depending on what I'm spraying.

The primer goes on with a 1.8mm Airgunsa AZ3 HTE2 : Anest Iwata Europe - AIR GUNSA - GRAVITY SPRAY GUN AZ3 HTE2

For basecoats there's a 1.3mm Anest Iwata WS400 Evo : Anest Iwata Europe - SUPERNOVA - SUPERNOVA WS 400 EVO<br>EVOLVING INTELLIGENCE

And finally for clears I use a 1.4mm Anest Iwata W400WB : Anest Iwata Europe - CLASSIC plus - W400 WB CLASSIC plus
 
Heya Gravedigger and thanks.

The paints used are standard acrylics type often used by automotive refinishers. If we're talking exact brands I believe the primer and clearcoat are both from Nexa Autocolour but I often use Upol too with good results. And the basecoat/colourcoat are mixed by a local small specialist supplier.

I use a few guns depending on what I'm spraying.

The primer goes on with a 1.8mm Airgunsa AZ3 HTE2 : Anest Iwata Europe - AIR GUNSA - GRAVITY SPRAY GUN AZ3 HTE2

For basecoats there's a 1.3mm Anest Iwata WS400 Evo : Anest Iwata Europe - SUPERNOVA - SUPERNOVA WS 400 EVO<br>EVOLVING INTELLIGENCE

And finally for clears I use a 1.4mm Anest Iwata W400WB : Anest Iwata Europe - CLASSIC plus - W400 WB CLASSIC plus


That some really nice gear! Eventually I will be replacing my cheapo Turbine HVLP.... some day lol

Acrylic eh? I was going to use urethane based paints for my next "experiments". I will never again use oil based paint :/ it never dries, terrible to clear coat.... but it's a fraction of the cost of the more expensive automotive stuff :)

I will see if they have these brands in the US.

Thanks, keep up the updates and excellent work!!!
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
Coming along very nicely. I would have chosen the white or blue, but that's me. (And I didn't see any in person)

From your mirror finish pic, we see you- you're younger than I would have thought. Usually it's only the old dudes who take the time to do things to the level you have. "Mad props yo".

Not that young badman, 34 here.

Thanks though mate :)
 
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