Crossover issues

SpiXe · 3rd December 2011, 05:47 PM

Hello. Not sure this is the right category to place this thread, but here goes..

Some time ago I managed to blow a component on one of the crossovers (I figure this is what I did..) for my Cerwin Vega CLS-12.
Now the sub in the speaker plays full tone, or at least some highs. The tweeter is lower than usual, but the mid-speaker plays just fine. When I turn up the amp, the amp goes in Safe mode and turns off, so obv the impedance has changed as well.

I've replaced the biggest and smallest capacitors on the crossover, but hasn't helped a bit. The biggest cap buldged a bit, but it had always done that, so I figured that might be the problem and replaced it. Didn't help, so I got my hands on a tool to measure caps (no idea what it's called in english - nor danish really) and measured the caps. The smallest cap (12uF) seemed to be broke, so I ordered a new and replaced it as well.
None of this helped on the issue. So I have no idea what could be the problem now..

Hope someone here have an idea! I don't have much knowledge on this subject..

Thanks in advance!

/SpiXe :-)

mjf · 4th December 2011, 12:59 PM

hello.

Some time ago I managed to blow a component on one of the crossovers.......

if i understand you correctly, only one box is bad.........so you could have a look at the other working box/crossover and compare them?

DrDyna · 4th December 2011, 01:20 PM

It sounds like a short somewhere, either in a crossover component or driver. The tool you have is probably an LCR (inductance / capacitance / impedance) meter. You should be able to measure all the parts on the crossover. I'd measure them against the parts in the working speaker / crossover.

Are you able to grab a picture of the crossover boards? Do any of the drivers or crossover components look or smell burned?

picowallspeaker · 4th December 2011, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Now the sub in the speaker plays full tone, or at least some highs

It's a woofer , not a subwoofer , there's a subtle difference , but there is .
Probably it has the coil damaged , and when it gets hot it produces a short circuit ( damage of insulation on the copper , probably result from internal scratch ) , then the amplifier detects it and shuts off .

speakerdoctor · 4th December 2011, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by picowallspeaker

It's a woofer , not a subwoofer , there's a subtle difference , but there is .
Probably it has the coil damaged , and when it gets hot it produces a short circuit ( damage of insulation on the copper , probably result from internal scratch ) , then the amplifier detects it and shuts off .

+1. I agree. Inductor coils can hide shorts internally in the windings. You can only find them by measurements with an LCR meter. If you do it, be sure to disconnect at least one of the coil leads first.

SpiXe · 4th December 2011, 04:31 PM

Pretty sure the -woofer- worked just fine, when I connected it to the other speaker's board. Gonna do that again. Assuming it's not the driver, therefor.

mjf - How would I compare them? All components look(ed), except for the cap I replaced already. There's a little bit of brown-ish substance on one of the resistors (I think it is), but I figured it was glue or something. It doesn't smell burned. I'm gonna take some pictures of it, when I get back home (not near the speakers atm).

speakerdoctor · 4th December 2011, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpiXe

Pretty sure the -woofer- worked just fine, when I connected it to the other speaker's board. Gonna do that again. Assuming it's not the driver, therefor.

mjf - How would I compare them? All components look(ed), except for the cap I replaced already. There's a little bit of brown-ish substance on one of the resistors (I think it is), but I figured it was glue or something. It doesn't smell burned. I'm gonna take some pictures of it, when I get back home (not near the speakers atm).

IT'S THE COIL in series with the woofer!

SpiXe · 4th December 2011, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speakerdoctor

IT'S THE COIL in series with the woofer!

No idea what the coil is then, if it's not the voice coil they're talking about?

SpiXe · 4th December 2011, 05:15 PM

Owh.. That. My bad.

And I had no idea you actually could damage one of these. I'll try compare the coil on each board to see if that's where the problem lies. Thanks! Bear with me..

SpiXe · 5th December 2011, 06:36 PM

Here's a pic of the crossover board. Please don't mind my lousy placing of the small cap.. It's more or less temporary.

http://peecee.dk/uploads/122011/IMG_20111205_202352.jpg

The coil you were talking about is the red wire covered by the black tape with the white .. thingy around it, right?

(Great English skills..) The ones there are four of?

3rd December 2011, 05:47 PM	#1
SpiXe diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2011	Crossover issues Hello. Not sure this is the right category to place this thread, but here goes.. Some time ago I managed to blow a component on one of the crossovers (I figure this is what I did..) for my Cerwin Vega CLS-12. Now the sub in the speaker plays full tone, or at least some highs. The tweeter is lower than usual, but the mid-speaker plays just fine. When I turn up the amp, the amp goes in Safe mode and turns off, so obv the impedance has changed as well. I've replaced the biggest and smallest capacitors on the crossover, but hasn't helped a bit. The biggest cap buldged a bit, but it had always done that, so I figured that might be the problem and replaced it. Didn't help, so I got my hands on a tool to measure caps (no idea what it's called in english - nor danish really) and measured the caps. The smallest cap (12uF) seemed to be broke, so I ordered a new and replaced it as well. None of this helped on the issue. So I have no idea what could be the problem now.. Hope someone here have an idea! I don't have much knowledge on this subject.. Thanks in advance! /SpiXe :-)

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4th December 2011, 12:59 PM	#2
mjf diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: upper austria/near linz	hello. Some time ago I managed to blow a component on one of the crossovers....... if i understand you correctly, only one box is bad.........so you could have a look at the other working box/crossover and compare them?

4th December 2011, 01:20 PM	#3
DrDyna diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007 Blog Entries: 3	It sounds like a short somewhere, either in a crossover component or driver. The tool you have is probably an LCR (inductance / capacitance / impedance) meter. You should be able to measure all the parts on the crossover. I'd measure them against the parts in the working speaker / crossover. Are you able to grab a picture of the crossover boards? Do any of the drivers or crossover components look or smell burned?

4th December 2011, 04:31 PM	#6
SpiXe diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2011	Pretty sure the -woofer- worked just fine, when I connected it to the other speaker's board. Gonna do that again. Assuming it's not the driver, therefor. mjf - How would I compare them? All components look(ed), except for the cap I replaced already. There's a little bit of brown-ish substance on one of the resistors (I think it is), but I figured it was glue or something. It doesn't smell burned. I'm gonna take some pictures of it, when I get back home (not near the speakers atm).

4th December 2011, 05:15 PM	#9
SpiXe diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2011	Owh.. That. My bad. And I had no idea you actually could damage one of these. I'll try compare the coil on each board to see if that's where the problem lies. Thanks! Bear with me..

5th December 2011, 06:36 PM	#10
SpiXe diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2011	Here's a pic of the crossover board. Please don't mind my lousy placing of the small cap.. It's more or less temporary. http://peecee.dk/uploads/122011/IMG_20111205_202352.jpg The coil you were talking about is the red wire covered by the black tape with the white .. thingy around it, right? (Great English skills..) The ones there are four of?

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