Vienna Acoustics Mozart xover

drdesmo · 1st December 2011, 05:44 PM

Hi, I have a pair of the original VA Mozarts, (NOT the newer Grand version).
review here:
Vienna Acoustics Mozart loudspeaker | Stereophile.com

I'm upgrading (replacing entirely) the crossovers; new wire, new coils, new caps. The crossover is similar to below:

ERSE - Crossover Calculator - Second Order 2 Way

enter this data:

Besel
hipass=6
lopass=3
freq=2800

my xover has a 2.2 ohm resistor after C1 and a 2.8 ohm resistor after C2

the coils I've ordered are the same mH, but have a lower ohm value
how do I compensate?

regards,
drd.

jgv · 1st December 2011, 07:20 PM

With an equivalent differential series resistor so that total value is the same.

PeteMcK · 1st December 2011, 08:33 PM

... which would make the exercise pointless...
" The construction features expensive hand-picked capacitors, 2% tolerance metal-film resistors, and 0.7% tolerance air-core inductors".... leave it alone, spend your money on CDs...

andy2 · 2nd December 2011, 04:00 AM

I don't really think you have to compensate for anything. I assume for the woofer, the resistor is in series with C2 which will probably has nothing to do with the coil that you order. For the resistor after C1, I assume that resistor probably in series with C1 as well, is used to attenuate the tweeter in which case, you don't have to compensate for the coil resistance.
You probably want L2 to have as low a resistance as possible. For L1, the resistance will affect the roll off of the high pass section but my guess is the effect of the resistance is minimal.

Neonus · 19th March 2012, 05:33 PM

Hi, I'm new here and very interested in the Mozart xover modification. The article in stereophile is well known, my experience about the 1 to 5 kHz notch is the same, and therefor I would like to do something to fix it. To ways are posible I think, change the polarity of the tweeter or change the xover. For both it is nessesery to open the backpanel, but I don't know if it's difficult to do and mayby to damage something? There will be silicone needed to close it in the end? So please drdesmo tell us (me) how you did your fixing. It would be very helpfull for me to have the xovers electrical plan to recalculate the xover. A or more Photos would help extremly. Thanks for your interest. I know my written english is'nt that good, but I hope it's understandable. Greets from Germany Neonus

dabbler · 19th March 2012, 10:47 PM

Hi Neonus, there is no need to open the cabinet or change crossover parts, just reverse the polarity on the tweeter section of the external bi-wire posts.

Neonus · 20th March 2012, 06:08 AM

Hi dabbler, thanks for your fast request, but on my boxes are no bi-wiring connectors, so I have to open it. But before I do so it must be clear what to do. I think there are 2 versions 1 with and 1 without bi-wire. My boxes are from the 199? years. I was thinking about changing the polarity during taking off the tweeters and putting in again. I don't know if it would be correct, because it seams that the reversation must be done at the beginning of the circuit, right?

1st December 2011, 05:44 PM	#1
drdesmo diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Chicago area	Vienna Acoustics Mozart xover Hi, I have a pair of the original VA Mozarts, (NOT the newer Grand version). review here: Vienna Acoustics Mozart loudspeaker \| Stereophile.com I'm upgrading (replacing entirely) the crossovers; new wire, new coils, new caps. The crossover is similar to below: ERSE - Crossover Calculator - Second Order 2 Way enter this data: Besel hipass=6 lopass=3 freq=2800 my xover has a 2.2 ohm resistor after C1 and a 2.8 ohm resistor after C2 the coils I've ordered are the same mH, but have a lower ohm value how do I compensate? regards, drd.

1st December 2011, 08:33 PM	#3
PeteMcK diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Sydney	... which would make the exercise pointless... " The construction features expensive hand-picked capacitors, 2% tolerance metal-film resistors, and 0.7% tolerance air-core inductors".... leave it alone, spend your money on CDs... __________________ ‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
SB Acoustics SB29 or Peerless HDS for 1.5khz Xover?	Tyson	Multi-Way	40	14th July 2010 08:37 PM
What drivers in Vienna Acoustics Mahler?	NiToNi	Multi-Way	1	25th September 2005 08:50 PM
Thor T-line VS Vienna Acoustics Bach	Vuamp2	Multi-Way	7	31st August 2002 06:54 AM
Vienna Acoustics- Beethoven $2,295.00	briced	Swap Meet	1	17th May 2002 02:03 AM
Replacement part for Vienna Acoustics speaker?	Vuamp2	Multi-Way	2	12th January 2002 08:42 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

1st December 2011, 07:20 PM	#2
jgv diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Portugueseman in Madrid	With an equivalent differential series resistor so that total value is the same.

2nd December 2011, 04:00 AM	#4
andy2 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Los Angeles	I don't really think you have to compensate for anything. I assume for the woofer, the resistor is in series with C2 which will probably has nothing to do with the coil that you order. For the resistor after C1, I assume that resistor probably in series with C1 as well, is used to attenuate the tweeter in which case, you don't have to compensate for the coil resistance. You probably want L2 to have as low a resistance as possible. For L1, the resistance will affect the roll off of the high pass section but my guess is the effect of the resistance is minimal.

19th March 2012, 05:33 PM	#5
Neonus diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: In a big city	Hi, I'm new here and very interested in the Mozart xover modification. The article in stereophile is well known, my experience about the 1 to 5 kHz notch is the same, and therefor I would like to do something to fix it. To ways are posible I think, change the polarity of the tweeter or change the xover. For both it is nessesery to open the backpanel, but I don't know if it's difficult to do and mayby to damage something? There will be silicone needed to close it in the end? So please drdesmo tell us (me) how you did your fixing. It would be very helpfull for me to have the xovers electrical plan to recalculate the xover. A or more Photos would help extremly. Thanks for your interest. I know my written english is'nt that good, but I hope it's understandable. Greets from Germany Neonus

19th March 2012, 10:47 PM	#6
dabbler Account disabled at member's request Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Between cities!	Hi Neonus, there is no need to open the cabinet or change crossover parts, just reverse the polarity on the tweeter section of the external bi-wire posts.

20th March 2012, 06:08 AM	#7
Neonus diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: In a big city	Hi dabbler, thanks for your fast request, but on my boxes are no bi-wiring connectors, so I have to open it. But before I do so it must be clear what to do. I think there are 2 versions 1 with and 1 without bi-wire. My boxes are from the 199? years. I was thinking about changing the polarity during taking off the tweeters and putting in again. I don't know if it would be correct, because it seams that the reversation must be done at the beginning of the circuit, right?

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)