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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sweden
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Hi
Any one got time to check if this could work, or can come with suggestions. It's a Chario Syntar box, 13 Lt. upper section for Tweeter and Mid, and 25 Lt. lower for woofer. Mid & Woofer are the same Focal elements. (not original elements!) Thanks for any help. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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why the 160uf in the bass section, are you crossing over to a sub?
The Focals are low Q drivers, probably best used as mids, in vented boxes that size you'll get peaky bass unless you go for an EBS alignment, which wouldn't really suit such small drivers
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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Hi,
As said , these are midrange. A bigger woofer is better for bass 8" (40-60L) or a 10" (50-70L). 25L is just enough for a 7"... With your drivers, i suggest a 2.5 schematic. Keep the tuning frequency of all box near 47Hz. Pay attention to the polarity of the drivers. As example i give a generic schema for a 3 ways with a bigger woofer Note these schemas are starting point. Have fun. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sweden
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Hi & Thanks
As mentioned I already had the box! Didn't/Don't have the place or material to build my own box! When I bought them I liked their soft and dark sound, after a while I wanted cleaner sound, so thought changing to a better tweeter can help and then came better mid and half-woofer! Mid & woofer are the same size. You are right it's 2.5-way. I tried 3 or different X-over, but all sounded ok on acoustic and classical music, but there is always some music that sounds real bad and unbearable! I'll try your suggestions and hope for the best! So, I wont be needing caps to limit lows on Focals? Again, thank you for your attention and help. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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The Scanpeak D9700 is a very good tweeter, you can keep it.
You should play with the crossover. Yes remove the caps, they could smeared the sound. But you will run quickly into the limitation of the drivers at high level. Rare are 5" which can support a lot of power. Let us know how it works |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lisbon
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with such good drivers you should cross them to a sub ( 1 per speaker) anywhere in 60-150hz range, you have to find out where it sounds best , this way they will handle a 100w amp or more without problems. i had a pair of epos els3 (5" woofer ) crossed at 80hz to my active subs connected to a 150w amp for 4 years without problems, i still use them on another room.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sweden
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Hi
I'll have the parts today. Just wanted to ask about the 3.3 resistor for tweeter and it's function, and for the lower mid/sub, it's downfiring, is 3.9 mH enough to cut down the highs? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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The resistor 3.3/10 is a LPAD, it equalize the level of the tweeter.
The 3.9mH has the function to compensate bass step. The high will be cut naturally ... Just one note, you could play with the parallel resistor in series with the capacitor 8.2 on the mid : 0 to 8.2 ohms... It could improve the sound in the mid. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sweden
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Hi
Included i parts are 2x 8 ohm Potentiometers, I thought begin with them and when/if I find the right value, I can replace them. I don't know how badly they can affect the sound?! Thanks for swift reply. P.S. Didn't order the best components! Thought first try with not too expensive parts and when I get where I'm satisfied then I can buy better parts. Last edited by Bahman; 9th December 2011 at 09:45 AM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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Good choices
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