No problem especially with crossover components protecting the drive units.
The loudspeaker will be used to play real music and movies, not recieve pure tones. Treble energy is nothing like bass energy and mid energy, you simply do not require that much power to drive the treble.
Check out typical active speakers. Not unusual to see amp's rated say 200w bass, 75w mid, 25 watt treble.
The loudspeaker will be used to play real music and movies, not recieve pure tones. Treble energy is nothing like bass energy and mid energy, you simply do not require that much power to drive the treble.
Check out typical active speakers. Not unusual to see amp's rated say 200w bass, 75w mid, 25 watt treble.
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Both, the first question I was asking if the ~86 db on the on the 5" was with 1w/1m.
The second question I was asking about me putting 130 watts on that ribbon that claims 17w RMS. With a crossover that seems like a really bad idea.
What I am failing to understand is how the driver needs so much power when the ribbons need so little yet the system is balanced. Are the drivers severely underpowered or is the crossover limiting the wattage to the ribbon? Sorry for the noob questions.
You are filling a relatively small room, this actually has its benefits in some respects.
Speakers have to work much harder to fill larger spaces, increased driver excursion equals greater distortion, thermal limits are hit earlier.
Consider in surround the speakers do not work as hard as they do in two channel. The centre speaker takes pressure off the stereo pair. The rears pull the sound into the room. The Sub relieves the tiny bass/mids of low frequencies.
Do not hook a ribbon straight to the speaker wires ever, you must use the crossover.
Speakers have to work much harder to fill larger spaces, increased driver excursion equals greater distortion, thermal limits are hit earlier.
Consider in surround the speakers do not work as hard as they do in two channel. The centre speaker takes pressure off the stereo pair. The rears pull the sound into the room. The Sub relieves the tiny bass/mids of low frequencies.
Do not hook a ribbon straight to the speaker wires ever, you must use the crossover.
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THIS is the ultimate kit. TJL3W-JP3 ribbon The only issues is....can I change the dimensions of the box to make it more of a bookshelf shape box as long as I maintain the cuft?
I agree with rob on both points. In fact many places will help you with choosing XO components. I know Solen does.
Solen. Dennis Oullet is a very helpful person.
1. Ribbons can be very fragile. If you are looking a ribbon kit order a spare set of ribbons as well.
2. Again I agree with Rob. I have tried 19/21mm domes (Dynaudio D21af,a Vifa fabric dome i cant remember th number of, and a few others). These domes are fine if your XO is above 5k but if you are using them in a 2 way at 2-3K they dont sound relaxed - it is almost like they are working too hard.
If you HP at say 5k only about 8% of the energy is above 5k. SO 8% of 130W is about 10W.
Music energy is not level. 50% of the music energy is below 300hz and the other 50% is above. Some modern electronic music might not follow this but classical and 70s rock do,
Similarly about 75% of the energy is below 2500hz and only about 25% is above. Ofcourse this varies from artist to artist and album to album. What we are stating here are very rough rules of thumb.
Now I am Confused. I thought you were looking at small bookshelf type speakers. 4-5 of these would overwhelm your room. The TJL2W might be a nicer fit. You could use them for the front and use the W15CY in the rear and center.
SEAS TJL-2W SEAS T25C001 (E0036) version
The more I look at this, the more I like it. the 1" dome is really nice. Both drivers are well respected the 8945A and the 9950. And being large they will have a lot of SD (a 6" has about 35% more Sd than a 5") and hence need to move less for the same SPL. THis will make the system sound relaxed.
I will be comparing these 2 speakers next week. Thanks rob g.
Like stated earlier the energy spectrum of most music is 50% above 300Hz and 50% below 300Hz.
One reason (I assume) we see 200W amps for the bass and 50-100W amps for the HF is that woofers are largely inductive and need a lot of muscle to control and move quickly. The bigger amps can dump more current and hence control the woofers better.
This is true even if it is a 2 way with the XO at 150Hz. FOr example most people who biamp use a big 200W amp for the bass (sub 150Hz) and only about 50-75W for everything above 200hz.
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Hi Navin,
Hope you find something you like.
Q100's really great for the price, of course the GX are more capable with nicer treble.
If the Kef and the Monitor Audio are a little too forward sounding for your ears or you do not get on with the strong reflex bass of the GX50 try the Spendor S3/5R2's if this is an option.
Hope you find something you like.
Q100's really great for the price, of course the GX are more capable with nicer treble.
If the Kef and the Monitor Audio are a little too forward sounding for your ears or you do not get on with the strong reflex bass of the GX50 try the Spendor S3/5R2's if this is an option.
Increasing budget and complexity I see. I expect they sound nice, they will not compare well to Linkwitz Pluto 2.1 though, unless they are radically better than the the best box speakers.
That said I imagine they will play slightly louder, although less than you might think.
I think I can live with the bigger boxes as I think this 3 way will sound much better and a bit louder. I did email Troles and he said that I can make the box not as tall (substituting the depth) but I could not change the dimensions of the front (width 190mm only)
I want to see if I can do something in the the form of this shape but he has not responded.
Three way can be better, often they are worse too, coherence is harder to achieve. I expect in this case better than the average. As a comparison I have heard three ways that sound confused and aggressive way before Pluto 2.1 starts to sound distressed.
Larger bass drivers will certainly improve power handling. They could be good for the front pair, keep the others small.
Why that shape?
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He said I must maintain the front of the box as 190mm wide so thats a sneaky way of maintaining that while also increasing the 'width'. I think the boxes are way to thin and need to be wider then the predetermined 7.5" (at least for a bookshelf type shape)
Ill take a look at that setup.
This is what changed my mind from the small minis to the 3-way + sub
--> why
That and I feel that having that the bass going that low from the wall area will be outstanding.
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Can I ask why you picked ribbons over domes. I know its a controversial question as it is a matter of preference but having not heard ribbons (and non available local to listen to) I have no reference to compare against. Everyone has heard domes.
I only ask this since there are two versions and the only difference is the tweeters/crossover config
TJL3W-JP3 ribbon
SEAS TJL3W
I have limited exposure to ribbons but have liked every one I have heard. Lots of good dome designs out there though. Also lots of poor ones.
Best treble I have heard would be from Electrostatics, Heil AMT (Adam Audio Tensor range including Heil AMT mid too, very nice), some ribbons and the brilliant Linkwitz Pluto 2.1 with it's actively equalized $20 2 inch fullrange!
I have heard poor speakers with good ribbons too. Mainly many, many cones and domes.
Best treble I have heard would be from Electrostatics, Heil AMT (Adam Audio Tensor range including Heil AMT mid too, very nice), some ribbons and the brilliant Linkwitz Pluto 2.1 with it's actively equalized $20 2 inch fullrange!
I have heard poor speakers with good ribbons too. Mainly many, many cones and domes.
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