Are you (open) baffled yet?

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Konnichiwa,

Playing now and sounding astonishing (after re-locating the driver to the Baffles front and messing up my nice routed out and rounded off rear mounting hole to cure a certain nasilty likely caused by my excessively thick baffles). Have a look.....

Sayonara
 

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More....

Konnichiwa,

For those interested in details, the Speakers use a pair of 12" 'Wideband' Drivers custom made by Eminence for Bastanis Audio and further modified by Bastanis Audio, combined with a Beyma CP-21 Slot radiator.

These are on an Open Baffle for which I used Ikea Pronomen Solid Wood (butcher block type) Kitchen worktops, 124cm X 38cm 36mm thick.

Crossover is a single capacitor and series resistor on the tweeter, nothing on the woofer.

To go with that you get a pair of 12" subwoofer drivers and a Thomessen (Germany) Subwoofer "Plate Amp" rated at 175W/4Ohm with a very large number of adjustments (variable phase 0-270degrees, adjustable LF EQ are the more unusual ones).

I put these into a slightly undersized enclosure (compared to the recommendations by Bastanis) which is in fact the silver Box under the Shanling SACD Player (the player is not in the system, just parked). I've added a small RC EQ circuit in the subwoofer inputs to EQ out the increased System Q.

More on the Kit at:

http://www.memphis-highend.de/memphis.html

Last time I looked cost was €1,250, well worth it.

Sonically this system reminds me a lot of my 15" Tannoy Monitor Reds in corner enclosures, but with in some areas SUPERIOR performance, though also some small problems whic I hope will reduce with burn in....

Sayonara
 

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Bastani Prometheus

Congrats,

the Bastani Prometheus have always been a consideration in my OB plans. I don´t know whether you got them with an assembly instructions in english. Bastani strongly advises to let the speakers run in for approx 200 hrs before doing individual adjustments. And he asks for the FR speaker to be mounted behind the baffle. May be you should be more patient? :rolleyes:

What about the pair of Supravox 215 Signatue Bicone you recently had taken delivery of. Did you build them into their Acrylic Open Baffles? Can you compare them to the Prometheus? Any measurements already?
 
Re: Bastani Prometheus

Konnichiwa,

Rudolf said:
I don´t know whether you got them with an assembly instructions in english.

Thank you, not needed for me, I read and speak German quite well.

Rudolf said:
Bastani strongly advises to let the speakers run in for approx 200 hrs before doing individual adjustments.

I did so by placing both woofers and fullranges in "clamshell" arrangements and wiring them out of phase (this kills most of the noise), then playing high level pink noise literally for several weeks.

Rudolf said:
And he asks for the FR speaker to be mounted behind the baffle.

I did try this but suspect the thickness of my baffles (more than twice the originally suggested thickness) caused problems. I did check with Mr. Bastanis about it, he thought it should be fine, my ears diagreed so I moved the drivers to the front of the baffle and the problems vanished.

Rudolf said:
What about the pair of Supravox 215 Signatue Bicone you recently had taken delivery of. Did you build them into their Acrylic Open Baffles?

I am still waiting for a crucial piece (2 actually) of metalwork. I have been promised again and again it would be delivered, but no such luck. Supposedly it was shipped out friday for saturday delivery, except no delivery turned up....

Sayonara
 
Listening impressions and positioning

Wow, I didn´t realize you had them already "burnt in".

Can you tell us some more about their imaging qualities? Your baffles are quite close to the corners - my own selfmade OBs would require much more distance to the front wall for optimum sound quality. Have you played with other positions in the room? And how wide is the area for pinpoint imaging in your listening position?

As you will already have noticed, I´m really eager to know more about the Prometheus. Thanks for your patience in advance.

Rudolf
 
Konnichiwa,

Peter Daniel said:
What's the approx crossover point to the tweeter?

The tweeter rund with around 13KHz -3db point, but it has a slightly falling response between 10KHz & 20KHz so will likely be a little lower acoustically.


Stew320 said:
Wow, those look nice!! The solid wood board looks the part.

Thats one hellava nice system you got there :bigeyes:

Stew.

Thanks, on both counts. The boards are from Ikea for < $ 40 each....

Sayonara
 
Kuei Yang Wang,

I have found a pair of the drivers that I have been searching for a long time with attempt to build something similar that you did. (Although I never thought that in order to be really baffled the divers could sit in so small enclosure) I am kind of horns guy and know a little about the open baffles, however the certain uniqueness of my prospective open baffle projects and my love to the way in witch the open baffles sound force me to be interesting. So are any Web sources that you might suggest with the calculation of the open baffles?

Thanks,
Romy the Cat
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
Hi,

I hope it's a bottle of french wine, on the last picture

Le vin est un Chateau Bricolo d'un excellent millesime..j'ose esperer.

On a more serious note, alot of credit should go to Steen Doessing of SD acoustics for bringing both OB design and bi/tri wiring back to our attention.

I've owned a pair of OBS2 by SD Acoustics and would like to point to the importance of proper baffle design.

The baffle should be made asymmetrical IMO to reduce IMD.
Steen designed an OBS threeway which I can recommend to anyone.
It comprises a bass-reflex rear firing port woofer, the OBS midrange and a ribbon tweeter by Visaton.

A very good speaker indeed...room placement is as critical as it would be for any other dipole.

Some really nice stuff you have there, TL.:cool:

Cheers,;)
 
Thanks, Frank

Unfortunately I do not see there what I need. As I understand they just push their drivers and pre-caned enclosures for them. I do not particularly care about their drivers and consequencetualy about all their enclosure logic. All that I would need would be a simple calculation between the dimensions of the baffle and the desirable LF roll-off..

Rgs,
Romy the Cat
 
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