Many people say they like the midrange contribution from inside their box. If it is helping you then you should consider keeping it. However, another way of looking at it is that any midrange coming back out of the box is not correct. Of course there are worse things, but what to do? If you damp out your box (leaving breathing room for the woofer), you would then need to chase down the reason that your midrange is lacking. It could be a long task and if you want a guarantee that you will like what you find, you're on your own.
Many times I have been chasing something like this. Sometimes I was disappointed that I touched it and lost what I had. Other times I was pleased that I had found the right way to do it.
Many times I have been chasing something like this. Sometimes I was disappointed that I touched it and lost what I had. Other times I was pleased that I had found the right way to do it.
I made a compromise, I put some plaid (2mm) near the woofer going all the way from side to side. This way I have no surfaces without any damping near the woofer, maybe the difference is too small to notice but I hope it will do no harm at least. The first picture show alternative damping with a little less at the top, not sure what is best. The filter is not fastened yet.
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Since you need the most nice bass possible, you can start with #3, listen, if not content then through woofer hole reach can go #2 but with just one layer at the bottom, since the proto did not have a big crossover down and the damping wasn't coming up that high near the reflex with two layers. For top stuffing #2 & #3 look fine.
I have installed the speaker terminals today, it took some care since the diameter is not the same from the inside and outside. But it worked out well, see pictures. I am sick at the moment so progress is slowed down, but now the only thing problematic is the choice of color, I have a test colored bit picutre taken with a mobile phone, I will try to post later. When ready to paint I will just pop the terminals out a little to get paint under them, and then secure them from the inside. Using this method with the bass reflex tube too.
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. Thanks for the well whishings Salas 
stuffing
hay starre
from your photos of the fill in those boxes it would appear that you are burning the midnight oil
2.30AM on the photo tag would indicate that this project has got you by the short and curlies
hope that you sort out the bass issues that are presenting to you
will be good to see your project completed to your satisfaction
with the newyear coming maybe a new project?
cheers speedie
hay starre
from your photos of the fill in those boxes it would appear that you are burning the midnight oil
2.30AM on the photo tag would indicate that this project has got you by the short and curlies
hope that you sort out the bass issues that are presenting to you
will be good to see your project completed to your satisfaction
with the newyear coming maybe a new project?
cheers speedie
I am well again and have started to build. I have one question that maybe someone can answer. The so called "back-bounce", how can you hear if you have a problem with this? I know that the Seas woofer has a very light paper coated cone and that sound can bounce back and go through it (mainly the dust cap?), and I saw online that the similar woofer ca22RNX was said to need heavy damping behind it to avoid this problem, maybe the CA22RNY is not as sensitive since it got a bigger magnet that might stop some of the back-bounce, but the membrane is the same paper coated type. I can´t help but thinking of this and need some input, thanks.
Its about the back wave bouncing off, getting some attenuation from the box damping, returning and hitting the cone. Dust cap cavity resonance and cap's hopping on cone mass resonance is another story.
The more you stuff the back of a speaker that you had noticed nasal colorations mainly and they tend to suppress, can be about cone transparency to internal modes too.
The more you stuff the back of a speaker that you had noticed nasal colorations mainly and they tend to suppress, can be about cone transparency to internal modes too.
Ok, I did not notice any strange nasal sound when I listened so it is probably ok. I however noticed one annoying thing with my polyester filling/stuffing, it has different thickness, sometimes it is 2,5 cm and sometimes it is 3cm, and I noticed that the filling used behind the woofer going from side to side is now a little thinner than before (I used a different sheet of it when I finally stapled it into place). Maybe I should have an extra 2.5cm piece of filling at the back panel (not including the sides) just in case, I could have it put into place without stapling (it will stay in place without them) to minimize the risk for back-bounce and if it dampens the middle range too much I can remove it later.
Now it is ready I think, there is a little air space between the bottom damping stuff and the bass reflex tube. Should give good circulation around the tube.
I only have one layer at the back behind the woofer, I will start like this.
I have to make sure everything is as it should with the crossover since it will be stuck and can´t be removed later. If I build another speaker later I will probably have the filter in a compartment of its own that is easy to access if you want to, but I hope this one will live long and no need to get the filter out for whatever reason.
I only have one layer at the back behind the woofer, I will start like this.
I have to make sure everything is as it should with the crossover since it will be stuck and can´t be removed later. If I build another speaker later I will probably have the filter in a compartment of its own that is easy to access if you want to, but I hope this one will live long and no need to get the filter out for whatever reason.
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