"Tired2way" speaker building.

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Yes I know Salas, it can be hard to describe sounds with words. Most correct is inelastic all along to answer your question. But also it was soft in the beginning, now I do not find it especially soft, it sounds good and can hit rather hard if it is in the music. I have been playing some Erica Badu with electric bass and it does not sound soft, it is just right.
I hope this have shred some light on the matter.
 
I used dowels to keep it in place since I have only 2 hands, lol. Then I only glued it no screws. Looking good, I would recommend to place the bracings exactly as in Salas drawing, I did it a little different with the lower bracing but I think that was not better so stick to the original.

Dowels sounds smart, I should have thought of that. I think I am too late to do that now. The speakers my Dad made 30 years ago (I am listening to them now) have screws that have never come loose or vibrated after all this time -I may screw mine too. I can predrill, counter-sink, and fill and sand; it will be a nice job.

I guess there are some choices about making joints, etc. Aside from that I am sticking to the origional plan as much as possible. I will put the cross-braces where Salas's plans indicate.

I enjoy hearing your listening impressions Stare. My 30+ year old TL's truely are tired, and having a more modern tweeter is exciting to me. I'm glad it's a good one!
 
Haven't decided on brand of cross-over stuff yet. I had found some stuff on partsexpress that I believe was Jentzen if I recall correctly. They had some that were listed as high quality "Z" something. I am open to suggestions for quality, but I think if I go back and read I'll find what you used (Jentzen right?)

There's a good shop near here, JAMAC Audio Portland Oregon (JAMAC SPEAKERS // Raw drivers information page). I will find out also if they can order the drivers for less cost than what I can import them from Europe-Audio. They may have things for cross-over on the shelf so I won't have to order online. They are reputable and have been a big of the audio-scene in this region for decades; so that helps.

I am spreading the costs of this project over time. No point in importing the expensive drivers if I am not successful in building the cabinet. So far I am only into this $35 for wood, and it is going well. I will build the cross-over next, and get drivers last.
 
The coils and resistors are from Jantzen (not Jentzen, that is another brand) and one capacitor. The rest of the coils are from Intertechnik (german). It is not that important if the brand you use is not the same, but I would say use as high quality as you can/want. Jentzen has very high quality capacitors but they cost a fortune, Jantzen is good but cheaper.
 
I think I have reached the goal :). Bass is powerful, more elastic and willing to play whatever bass line you feed them with. It is a very controlled bass with my amplifier, it holds the bass in a tight grip and it is more tuneful after all those hours of playing. I have compared them a little to Verity Audio Rienzi:
Rienzi
A friend of mine use these and yes they are better in some respects. Price is about 8000 Euro so it should be good. I will try to review the differences when possible.
 
Hi Starre, -Nice to see you are enjoying your speakers, and that they are breaking in nicely. As you may recall, I had said that I was going to put my speaker project on hold for a bit.

Soon it will be time to finish the speakers. I have been working on amplifier, and it's done. Sound's awesome! I am very happy, and I know the Tired-2-Way will be even more efficient than my current speakers,.... so I progress through building up the whole system.

I know this is speaker forum,... but you've got to see a pic of the mono-blocks that I made. A little ugly now / rough in form, still deciding on a chassis. I may try to build a chassis that matches the finish of the Tired-2-Way that I will be finishing in the next couple of months. Still undecided.

Cheers
 

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I think I have reached the goal :). Bass is powerful, more elastic and willing to play whatever bass line you feed them with. It is a very controlled bass with my amplifier, it holds the bass in a tight grip and it is more tuneful after all those hours of playing. I have compared them a little to Verity Audio Rienzi:
Rienzi
A friend of mine use these and yes they are better in some respects. Price is about 8000 Euro so it should be good. I will try to review the differences when possible.

What changed? Room positioning? Just worked in more?
That speaker in the link is a dual cabinet 3way. Apples to oranges. But its fun listening for general differences, educating. Had listened to the bigger one the Parsifal at a home installation enough, in leisure a couple of times, the one with Skanning looking drivers. It was a low coloration easy going sound, but dynamically it let me down. Was sounding kind like the presence range was notched out to sound bigger than its heft.
 
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I know this is speaker forum,... but you've got to see a pic of the mono-blocks that I made. A little ugly now / rough in form, still deciding on a chassis. I may try to build a chassis that matches the finish of the Tired-2-Way that I will be finishing in the next couple of months. Still undecided.

Cheers

Are those mono-blocks something that has a thread in DIYA? What are they? If they got 50W+ is better for mating the T2WAY.
 
Are those mono-blocks something that has a thread in DIYA? What are they? If they got 50W+ is better for mating the T2WAY.

Yes, I have a thread about these in diyAudio - Chip Amp... I guess I should keep things in one place.

It is LM3875 Audio Sector premium kit. I'm really at the limit of max size for transformer I think 330VA 25v +25v. It works out to 37vdc on each rail and I am only beginning to learn to read data sheets, and figure this out, but I think it might barely hit 45 - 50 watts. It really blows the doors off my old receiver, (which has a higher wattage rating) Lots of detail and depth in the sound stage, and when the bass comes it doesn't fade, it delivers. My floor vibrates at lower volumes. I used to have to crank it to be able to feel anything. Its weird, not bass heavy or boomy -the tone of the speaker sounds the same, it's just that now I have some frequencies that were missing before I guess. -I was thinking that if these amps can drive a big 3-way TL that they would drive a 2 way even easier.

If anything my concern is running them near their upper limit too often or for too long. But I gotta start somewhere for a first amp build, just like starting somewhere for a first speaker build. I can always recycle these boards into another project, and use these power supplies for something more powerful, like a pair of bridged or parralleled lm4780 maybe..

Will the tired-2-way be about 91dB/meeter/watt efficiency? That seems really good to me. Maybe I should be searching for something even more efficient??

AlexQS
 
Salas, sure they are different in many ways, but a comparasion is not uninteresting to me. I think Verity speakers are generaly good, interesting to read your llistening comments.
I think they are broken in now and hopefully it will not change that much in the future since I am pleased. I also have found a position in the room I like, but I also think my ears/mind have got used to the sound, it is a little different than my earlier Revel speakers (they have a little increase in deep bass before roll-off), T2way is more neutral in this respect and to me that is a winner in the long run.
AlexQS: nice with you new amplifier, it will work good with your coming speakers if Salas say so, the sensitivity is something like 87dB (real value, not the ones you get from manufacturers who often give higher sensitivity than it really is).
 
Today I did a small modification of the speakers, I put in one extra bracing from side to side behind the woofer with a 25mm dowel. I had some panel resonances and thought I could always try to listen if it would help. It really made the cabinet more resonance free and it seems to work, but I can still hear a few resonances (with my ear close to the panel) and probably it is very hard to get rid of them all. Since I used MDF board and the original probably was made of plywood (stiffer) the extra bracing is probably a good idea when using MDF. I will listen more careful and louder tomorrow when I am sure the glue is 100% dry and give a more extensive report :).
 
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Ok so it was even solid wood then. I am pleased with the extra bracing so far, it was some struggle to get it in place but worth the efforts. We will see if I will make further mods but I will take it slowly. I know that sometimes a mod can insert new problems not predicted.
 
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