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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Israel
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I've built a pair of 3-way speakers some years back which I've been very happy with with the exception of the woofer which seems to be lower in spl than the other drivers, my best solution is to get a DCX2496 digital xover and another amp to drive the woofer independently while giving it a higher gain in the xover however I don't know what to eliminate from the mid and woofer parts of the passive xover.
I have included the LEAP schematic + graphs. I just want to know whats not needed in the passive xover and if needed apart from cutoff points which i know what else to program in the DCX Last edited by Tomv; 10th October 2011 at 10:03 PM. Reason: forgot to add it's 3-way(although apparent from the images) |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Israel
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I can't afford another amp and I'm very pleased with the current passive xover apart from the woofer spl which is the only reason I'm doing this, I just don't want the active and passive part to interrupt each other...
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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remove all parts from the woofer xover,
from the mid, at a minimum, the 80uF cap, the 3mH inductor & 2 ohm resistor
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#5 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Between cities!
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I dont think you need to change anything on the crossover, just bypass it when connecting the woofer to the amp > DSP. Once connected measure and tweak to ensure you are getting the same crossover point.
I would also recommend MiniDSP over the DCX for what you are trying to achieve - Cheaper, less noise and more flexible. Edit: Maybe im missing something but as I understand it you want to run the the woofer active and keep the mid and tweeter passive? Last edited by dabbler; 10th October 2011 at 10:11 PM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Israel
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Israel
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yes that's the case but I thought that if I can do it why not bypass the low filter of the mid as well if in case I want to change slope rate or type and for the active part to "interlock" better if you understand what I'm trying to say
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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re:'and the rest of the mid section is the high filter and notch filter? ' - you got it
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Israel
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should I change the polarity of the mid?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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good question, probably yes, but if you do you'll need to reverse the tweeter too...
it would be easier simply to wire the woofer reverse polarity (try that first, wired both ways?)
__________________
‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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| Passive into active | MethMan | Multi-Way | 8 | 12th January 2005 04:58 PM |
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| dB loss by using passive crossovers? Active vs Passive and 1st vs 4th order | Hybrid fourdoor | Multi-Way | 3 | 11th July 2004 09:16 PM |
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