Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 4th September 2003, 01:27 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Circlotron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Default Inexpensive 12 inch paper cones vs poly and carbon fibre etc

We all know that you get what you pay for and this is true for speaker drivers too. If you want good perfomance from a conventional passive system you need to use good quality drivers. What I want opinions on though is the following approach to making a sub - There are these moderate to cheap (not rock-bottom junk) drivers that I am looking at -> http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVie...=&SUBCATID=383 and while I realise that if you just stick them in a box, they are not going to set the world on fire the same way a $1,000 driver would.

OK. Lets say we put the above driver in an 80 litre sealed box and equalise the living daylights out of it so it has no choice but to do as it is told. i.e as the frequency goes down the cone displacement goes up in more or less the same manner a perfect driver would, down to say 20Hz, within the mechanical limits of the driver of course. Also, lets put an upper frequency limit of ~100Hz so the cone is reasonably always moving in piston mode, not breaking up into a series of wavy wiggles across it's radius.

Now, the question is this - should I expect a very great improvement in performance so that if a very high quality driver was used in place of the one I am talking about, would there be not much difference in results? i.e can I make a moderate quality driver behave like a very good one, at least as far as frequency response is concerned, *over a necessarily limited range*, provided it has reasonable X-max?
__________________
Best-ever T/S parameter spreadsheet.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tml#post353269
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th September 2003, 03:00 PM   #2
Volenti is offline Volenti  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Australia
I've used those jaycar paper cone woofers before, their not too bad.

Probably the main difference between the heavily EQ'd budget woofer and a "natural" high quality woofer would be potential volume (loudness), though the budget woofers can sometimes have efficiency working in thier favour.

There's other factors like how linear the woofer behaves, transient response ect that need to be considered as well.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th September 2003, 03:07 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Nappylady's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Send a message via ICQ to Nappylady Send a message via AIM to Nappylady Send a message via MSN to Nappylady Send a message via Yahoo to Nappylady
Qts of 1.46.... IIRC, doesn't high Q like that usually associate with sloppy, "boombox" bass?

...probably do well with a dipole...

also, the sensitivity is only 89dB, and my personal tastes try to stay above that... however, I'd be interested in seeing what you did with this driver... I'm interested in all projects.

Good luck, let us know what you end up doing.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th September 2003, 04:07 PM   #4
ronc is offline ronc  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
With a Qts of 1.46 i would not expect a "fast" bass. I have always preferred a lower Qts that will keep up with a fast mid or full ranger.About the only thing you can do , as far as an enclosure, is an aperiodic port with the cab volume .75 x Vas and even that may not help.Try an OB if you have the space.
ron
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th September 2003, 09:40 PM   #5
JoeBob is offline JoeBob  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
JoeBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montreal, Canada
My guess is that if you slap that in an open baffle, add a little EQing to it and you'll probablye be amazed that it sounds as good as it does for the price.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th September 2003, 11:30 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: 5280'
The driver is designed to be used as a woofer in a 3-way not to be used in a sub

The "Q" is way to high. The Fs is 32Hz (= BOOM BOX).

The 50 watts power handling is a joke in this day and age. It's not going to handle any reasonable amount of EQ with this wimpy VC.

Interesting that they don't list the Xmax.

This driver should retail for $14.95

Save your money and get something better......
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th September 2003, 11:33 PM   #7
ronc is offline ronc  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Yea , i love some of the cheap car amps that have"400 watts/channel". I tried to explain to a guy once that the output power was more than the input by a wide margin and he would not believe me LOL.
ron
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th September 2003, 03:29 AM   #8
JoeBob is offline JoeBob  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
JoeBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montreal, Canada
Usually more expensive is better. But power handling is usually what you pay for. A 32Hz fs isn't excessively high, hell, response down to 40Hz is enough for many music listners. And the Q is high, which is good for some arangements, not so good for others.

And as for the EQing you could aply with 50watts, well that is more than enough if you've got a small room, afterall no way will it be reproducing 35Hz continous at 50 watts, and the driver will be able to tolerate more than that peak anyways.

It's good to advise someone asking a question, but in truth none of know how it will really sound, we can only guess.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th September 2003, 03:46 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Austin
Send a message via AIM to ScottRHinson
Default Re: Inexpensive 12 inch paper cones vs poly and carbon fibre etc

Quote:
Originally posted by Circlotron
Now, the question is this - should I expect a very great improvement in performance so that if a very high quality driver was used in place of the one I am talking about, would there be not much difference in results? i.e can I make a moderate quality driver behave like a very good one, at least as far as frequency response is concerned, *over a necessarily limited range*, provided it has reasonable X-max?
Kind of, and not really. Frequency response wise you could get it to do almost anything you wanted it to, given it did not excede it's excursion limits. You've already alluded to that. However, there are some things you can't correct with only frequency equalization. Linear and non-linear distortion will be quite high for even low power levels. I'll post two plots, 135Hz 150Hz and 165Hz IMD distortion measurements for a $12 5.25" woofer and for a $150 world class 5.25" woofer.

First the cheap one...
Attached Images
File Type: png tbw4imd.png (4.5 KB, 134 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th September 2003, 03:51 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Austin
Send a message via AIM to ScottRHinson
Default And now for plot #2

Here's the expensive driver. Remember, only the tones at 135Hz, 150Hz and 165Hz were put into the driver. Any other tone showing up is a distortion....

Now there are expensive drivers that don't do as well as this one and there are inexpensive drivers that do much better than the one I posted above. (There are only a select few I've measured that do better than this guy.)

Scott
Attached Images
File Type: png expensive.png (3.7 KB, 129 views)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kevlar, Aerogel, Carbon Fibre, Paper - Which is the best ? Fanuc Multi-Way 12 4th February 2009 07:06 AM
Carbon Fibre Heatsinks..! owen Pass Labs 3 10th November 2005 06:37 PM
Damping carbon fibre tubes Derekva Analogue Source 5 24th December 2003 09:54 PM
Anyone recognise these carbon fibre drivers? Ian J Multi-Way 12 14th May 2003 10:03 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:07 AM.

Page generated in 0.11487 seconds (81.48% PHP - 18.52% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio