|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
|
I've been playing all summer with horns. I have a mould for a 170hz tractrix that i plan to use down to 300hz. But i still need to decide what i will use under it.
I would like to have a single unit in order to keep the filter "tube friendly". I have no experience with passive filter, and i'm far away from owning enough amps to go active.... A tapped horn would be nice, but i have yet to see one that goes to +300hz. A conical horn will be .......huuge. A ported box will be...dull and inefficient. some help? Last edited by rvrazvan; 23rd September 2011 at 01:39 PM. |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Corner Horn
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
It is somewhat irrelevant what you use initially.
Anything. No matter what you are going to end up with a second amp for the bass. Just about nothing practical in terms of size is going to match the sensitivity of the upper horn, unless ur using a cone driver there (?) but a compression driver on top is a better idea, imo... So, another amp is a good idea and should not be too expensive, especially if you get something that is PP and used for the job or build ur own... or even solid state? A whole lot depends on your room and room size. Very important to what will work well. Corner horns are very room sensitive and dependent. PIA to build... Also the aesthetics, are they important, or do you need to please someone else's sense of how things must look?? _-_-bear
__________________
_-_-bear http://www.bearlabs.com ...ur feeback please - like/dislike my what I have written? PM/email tnx. -- |
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
|
Quote:
The system will be moved alot, so i can't just put all my money on corners...sometimes i just won't have the luxury of having corners at all. As a last resort i might use a big sealed box with two 12" or 15" inch drivers in each box, and SS plate amps. The tube amp will be happy with a solution like this. But would the dynamics even be in the same league as the horns above? Last edited by rvrazvan; 23rd September 2011 at 02:42 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Pensacola, Florida
|
Quote:
.. which is: 1) You need amplifier muscle to drive a sub-woofer, horned or not. An SS amplifier will fill this role at a reasonable cost and deliver superior results as well (due to its lower source impedance). 2) You need an active crossover to feed this amplifier. Components for a low frequency, passive crossover are large, expensive, and decouple the driver form the amplifier by effectively reducing its damping factor, which for tube amplifiers is typically low to begin with. 3) You need a corner horn. It is the only bass horn that will fit in an at-home venue. It uses a room corner to extend its acoustical size to what is required. Otherwise, consider using a servo controlled subwoofer such as: Rythmik Rythmik Audio • Servo subwoofer testimonials and reviews or Velodyne. Digital Drive PLUS 18 18" Subwoofer - Shop All Subwoofers - Subwoofers > - Shop and there are others as well. Regards, WHG Last edited by whgeiger; 23rd September 2011 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Change Topography |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
If you have enough power in the amps, then yes.
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
|
Quote:
__________________
The idea has its genesis in the matrix circuit for the FCC approved Zenith method of frequency division stereo demultiplexing |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I'm using the Deltalite 2515 II in a ported cab, fairly efficient down to 50 Hz. The cab is huge (~ 6ft3), but if it were any bigger, I'd not have space for it, such are the dimensions of my living room. So, we have similar problems.
As bear says, anything to get started. Edit: The vent is not showing in the pic. I cut it later |
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
|
This might be what you need or maybe just a little lower. Your 300 will be crossed over above 300 and this range you're trying to fill is very important. The below 100 region can manage with its own subs or tapped horns or whatever.
|
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Sound system in car does not play 100-200 Hz | Mote | Car Audio | 9 | 13th June 2011 03:20 PM |
| Front loaded and back loaded horn | DrWoofer.com | Subwoofers | 0 | 3rd August 2007 06:55 PM |
| Driving a 12" (sealed) subwoof driver up into 300-500 Hz? | Dumbass | Subwoofers | 1 | 18th November 2005 07:34 PM |
| 300 - 1500 Hz: Horn vs Open baffle mids | rick57 | Multi-Way | 100 | 17th January 2005 06:46 PM |
| Recording below 300 hz | lesaint | Everything Else | 20 | 6th January 2005 12:21 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.11309 seconds (85.11% PHP - 14.89% MySQL) with 11 queries |