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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 2nd September 2011, 12:05 AM   #1
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Default Re edging speakers

I just picked up some M & K SX 7 speakers. They played for about 10 minutes and foam fell apart. My local supplier does not have that size. Where can I get the proper size? Same as Minimus 7. Any advantage to using rubber?
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Old 2nd September 2011, 12:18 AM   #2
ChrisA is offline ChrisA  United States
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Originally Posted by argonrepublic View Post
I just picked up some M & K SX 7 speakers. They played for about 10 minutes and foam fell apart. My local supplier does not have that size. Where can I get the proper size? Same as Minimus 7. Any advantage to using rubber?
You can buy a slightly larger diameter foam and cut a section out and but the ends together using the same glue you' use to attach the foam. As long as the change in size is "small" you will be OK.

No, don't use a different kind of material. That would have quite an effect on the sound, detuning the driver but a small glue joint makes un-detectable difference.

If you want the exact fit try eBay or "Orange County Speaker" in California. OC speaker is good but not cheap.

SpeakeRepair.com - quality speaker repair re-edge kits
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Old 2nd September 2011, 03:28 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ChrisA View Post

If you want the exact fit try eBay or "Orange County Speaker" in California. OC speaker is good but not cheap.

SpeakeRepair.com - quality speaker repair re-edge kits
They claim most drivers are $15/unit. When I did Advents 10 years back I paid $9-$10 each so the OC price isn't out of line. It wasn't at all difficult but it took a bit of time for the work and overnight for the cements to cure. I am very happy with the results so it was worth the 'bother' and I'd happily do some more. Cutting out my own pieces does NOT sound like a success in the making but the pre-molded items are just fine.

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Old 2nd September 2011, 04:24 AM   #4
ChrisA is offline ChrisA  United States
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Originally Posted by stratus46 View Post
They claim most drivers are $15/unit. When I did Advents 10 years back I paid $9-$10 each so the OC price isn't out of line. It wasn't at all difficult but it took a bit of time for the work and overnight for the cements to cure. I am very happy with the results so it was worth the 'bother' and I'd happily do some more. Cutting out my own pieces does NOT sound like a success in the making but the pre-molded items are just fine.

I live near this place. Once I took a pair of speakers into their retail place. It's a good size building. They do a look of speaker rebuild. Mostly pro audio and musical instrument as those are the people who tend to blow speakers. They did good work. Then the next time I needed this I tried eBay. Much less expensive. I see there are people selling the 10" foam rings of for $7 a pair with free shipping. It's not rocket science. The ones I did looked good. The hardest part is cleaning all the old foam off both the steel chassis and the paper cone. Especially the paper, without damaging it

You do have to make certain you don't pull the voice coil off center or in or out. I glue the foam to the cone first, let that dry over night. then the next day glue the foam to the metal chassis. Otherwise I have to many "moving parts" at once.

Or you can mail in the drivers and have some one else do the work. I've done it both ways.
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Old 2nd September 2011, 04:44 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by ChrisA View Post
I live near this place. Once I took a pair of speakers into their retail place. It's a good size building. They do a look of speaker rebuild. Mostly pro audio and musical instrument as those are the people who tend to blow speakers. They did good work. Then the next time I needed this I tried eBay. Much less expensive. I see there are people selling the 10" foam rings of for $7 a pair with free shipping. It's not rocket science. The ones I did looked good. The hardest part is cleaning all the old foam off both the steel chassis and the paper cone. Especially the paper, without damaging it

You do have to make certain you don't pull the voice coil off center or in or out. I glue the foam to the cone first, let that dry over night. then the next day glue the foam to the metal chassis. Otherwise I have to many "moving parts" at once.

Or you can mail in the drivers and have some one else do the work. I've done it both ways.
Do ya one better. The way old Advents used a 12" stamped basket with a masonite reducer ring to drop the driver down to the 9.5 to 10 inch area. I took a hot air gun to soften the contact cement and remove the masonite to clean the back side where the foam glues down. My first kit included voice coil shims to hold it in alignment and supplied new dust caps. I glued the foam in place with latex from Organ Supply Industries which I had left over from the pipe organ project. Then I used silicone bathtub caulk and an army of clothespins to hold the masonite in place while the silicone cured. The dust caps are not the same size as the originals but other than that you'd have a hard time telling the difference. So far I've done 2 masonites and 4 steel basket versions. Takes about an hours worth of work plus drying time to be good as new. The last 4 were done without shims or dust cap removal. No problems with those either.

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