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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Essex, England
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Hi Guys
Just replaced the caps in my 332s but also want to do the wiring .But I cant remove the connectors from the block . Any ideas how to do this without damaging something ? Thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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It's difficult to see with that photo. You may not need to change the wiring. Is it oxidised right through? Why can't you get them off the block, are they soldered? Can you cut them and attach new ones?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Essex, England
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Hello AllenB,
These wires are probably 30 years old and I have nice new thicker internal speaker wire to replace them with . I could possibly solder on to the ends without removing the pins but I'd rather do it properly . Obviously I don't want to damage the connector block either. Heres a close up of the block . Thanks Phil |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Essex, England
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ok chaps - i have managed to get the clips out.1st i got the block slid off , then realised each wirw connector is held in by a sprung tang . Easy peasy now - just replace the wires and i can try out my updated Xovers .
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Well done. Thought of soldering directly to the drivers? What sort of caps did you end up with?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Essex, England
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I used cheap Alcaps as replacements for the original Elcaps , and nice 2 core 79/0.2 internal wire . I cant wait to complete and compare . I really like the overall sound of the 332s but I am missing a bit of depth or soundstage . I am hoping this update will help . I also maybe need to look at the tweeter as its a SEAS replacement for the original HF2001 , either play with crossover or look for better replacement.
Phil |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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I was trying to look this one up...was the original tweeter a 3" cone tweeter? Did you replace it with a 1" dome?
What angle of toe do you listen with? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Essex, England
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it was a 19mm dome , replaced with a similar one from SEAS . But the speakers are new to me and so i don't know how good they can be , also the tweeters were already blown when i got them.
I like the fullness and detail and also the nice deep bass from the 10" driver , but i'd like more depth of sound i have tried different toe , from straight to quite a bit! I'm hoping the caps and wire will make a difference . We will see ...... Phil |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Essex, England
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I have now found the new speaker wires are too thick to go into the pins in the board connector. When inserted they are completely inside the block so I can't just solder on the side of the pin .
I have 2 options:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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It can be done. Some problems you might face are that too much heat may loosen the tracks from the board, and too much tugging on them can do the same. These track pads that have a pin running through them should be alright if you solder properly. Clean the pads first and tin the new leads. Use enough heat to do the job quickly. You should secure the leads when reassembling so that they don't pull on the board.
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