Hello AllenB,
These wires are probably 30 years old and I have nice new thicker internal speaker wire to replace them with . I could possibly solder on to the ends without removing the pins but I'd rather do it properly . Obviously I don't want to damage the connector block either.
Heres a close up of the block .
Thanks
Phil
These wires are probably 30 years old and I have nice new thicker internal speaker wire to replace them with . I could possibly solder on to the ends without removing the pins but I'd rather do it properly . Obviously I don't want to damage the connector block either.
Heres a close up of the block .
Thanks
Phil
Attachments
I used cheap Alcaps as replacements for the original Elcaps , and nice 2 core 79/0.2 internal wire . I cant wait to complete and compare . I really like the overall sound of the 332s but I am missing a bit of depth or soundstage . I am hoping this update will help . I also maybe need to look at the tweeter as its a SEAS replacement for the original HF2001 , either play with crossover or look for better replacement.
Phil
Phil
it was a 19mm dome , replaced with a similar one from SEAS . But the speakers are new to me and so i don't know how good they can be , also the tweeters were already blown when i got them.
I like the fullness and detail and also the nice deep bass from the 10" driver , but i'd like more depth of sound
i have tried different toe , from straight to quite a bit!
I'm hoping the caps and wire will make a difference .
We will see ......
Phil
I like the fullness and detail and also the nice deep bass from the 10" driver , but i'd like more depth of sound
i have tried different toe , from straight to quite a bit!
I'm hoping the caps and wire will make a difference .
We will see ......
Phil
I have now found the new speaker wires are too thick to go into the pins in the board connector. When inserted they are completely inside the block so I can't just solder on the side of the pin .
I have 2 options:
I have 2 options:
- Join the wires to the old ones just outside the pin (still only have thin old wire connection to board)
- Solder the new wires directly onto the circuit board ( will this damage the board and is a soldered joint robust enough )
It can be done. Some problems you might face are that too much heat may loosen the tracks from the board, and too much tugging on them can do the same. These track pads that have a pin running through them should be alright if you solder properly. Clean the pads first and tin the new leads. Use enough heat to do the job quickly. You should secure the leads when reassembling so that they don't pull on the board.
No pins through the board at this point . But I could always drill a small hole to feed the wire through from the front side. This will look neater and gives a bit of support to the wire instead of 'hanging' off the soldered joint.
Hmm, i may look into this tonight !
I really wonder how much difference new wires will make although I have the wire now so its no expense.
Phil
Hmm, i may look into this tonight !
I really wonder how much difference new wires will make although I have the wire now so its no expense.
Phil
I didn't change the wiring after all as I didn't have time .
But got 1 speaker back together with the updated crossover and compared to the one without the update.
Can't hear any difference , so I asked my 24 year old son to listen and he couldn't hear any difference either! Oh well i will do the other crossover anyway as I have the caps.
Interestingly the speakers sound much better in the garage than they do in the dining room !
One thing I have discovered is that I need to update the CD player ( Philips cd610 and a Denon , both from the 80's ). When I listen through my Grado SR80s there is still not a lot of sound stage and with the Marantz PM 6003 I only have the CD player to blame .
Phil
But got 1 speaker back together with the updated crossover and compared to the one without the update.
Can't hear any difference , so I asked my 24 year old son to listen and he couldn't hear any difference either! Oh well i will do the other crossover anyway as I have the caps.
Interestingly the speakers sound much better in the garage than they do in the dining room !
One thing I have discovered is that I need to update the CD player ( Philips cd610 and a Denon , both from the 80's ). When I listen through my Grado SR80s there is still not a lot of sound stage and with the Marantz PM 6003 I only have the CD player to blame .
Phil
The placement of the speakers within a room will make a difference. As you move toward hifi it becomes critical. The difference will most likely be more significant than the CD player. You can give or take the life out of the sound within a few feet of room placement as long as the speaker is close enough to correct to begin with.
The room acoustics insofar as the garage versus the dining room, is another slant on the room issue which is again probably more significant than capacitors or CD players. If I were you I'd forget about rewiring (but have clean connections...all of them).
There are two aspects to rooms, i.e. the way speakers put sound into the room, and the room itself. This is more likely where your imaging issue wants attention.
The room acoustics insofar as the garage versus the dining room, is another slant on the room issue which is again probably more significant than capacitors or CD players. If I were you I'd forget about rewiring (but have clean connections...all of them).
There are two aspects to rooms, i.e. the way speakers put sound into the room, and the room itself. This is more likely where your imaging issue wants attention.
I have nearly finished some oak blocks to raise the speakers to the correct height in the dining room but I am governed a bit on position as they are to be either side of the bay window and not allowed away from the corner ( 'er indoors has spoken! ).
Obviously a lot more soft furnishings indoors compared to the garage !!
For info if I want to increase the treble volume slightly with the replacement SEAS tweeter should I reduce the resistor size slightly ? Will turning the treble control up give a similar effect ? I usually have the amp on direct source .
Thanks for your help,
Phil
Obviously a lot more soft furnishings indoors compared to the garage !!
For info if I want to increase the treble volume slightly with the replacement SEAS tweeter should I reduce the resistor size slightly ? Will turning the treble control up give a similar effect ? I usually have the amp on direct source .
Thanks for your help,
Phil
Experiment with pointing the speakers out from the corners even if it means they will effectively cross in front of where you listen from and not be pointing at you, and try not to have other objects crowding them or in the way. Positioning them is another issue just try what you can.
As far as the new tweeter is concerned, it may be tricky to predict just how it will sound and what will happen, but generally a treble control will roll the treble up so that a plot on a graph would look like an animal's tail...which will be a smooth transition. A plot of a tweeter with a poor choice of resistor will look more like a step, which is a sharp transition. It may not seem that bad in practice but I would suggest you envision the tweeter level as having one correct level that you need to find. There are other aspects that need to fit as well, such as the top end rolloff, the bottom end rolloff, the directivity pattern.
For starters though, just put the tweeter in and play with resistors until it sounds OK (I assume it is an appropriate replacement).
As far as the new tweeter is concerned, it may be tricky to predict just how it will sound and what will happen, but generally a treble control will roll the treble up so that a plot on a graph would look like an animal's tail...which will be a smooth transition. A plot of a tweeter with a poor choice of resistor will look more like a step, which is a sharp transition. It may not seem that bad in practice but I would suggest you envision the tweeter level as having one correct level that you need to find. There are other aspects that need to fit as well, such as the top end rolloff, the bottom end rolloff, the directivity pattern.
For starters though, just put the tweeter in and play with resistors until it sounds OK (I assume it is an appropriate replacement).
Hi AllenB,
I already have the tweeters in as they were blown when I got the speakers. I looked on all the forums for the best replacement for the Celestion HF2001 and the SEAS 0737 was the one recommended most.
When I have finished the stands and got them back indoors I will try experimenting with the toe-in etc and also the treble control to see what I really want to achieve.
I won't touch the resistor till I have put a little more thought into it!
Its all a learning curve and i'm still near the bottom at the moment , but enjoying the climb
)
Phil
I already have the tweeters in as they were blown when I got the speakers. I looked on all the forums for the best replacement for the Celestion HF2001 and the SEAS 0737 was the one recommended most.
When I have finished the stands and got them back indoors I will try experimenting with the toe-in etc and also the treble control to see what I really want to achieve.
I won't touch the resistor till I have put a little more thought into it!
Its all a learning curve and i'm still near the bottom at the moment , but enjoying the climb
)Phil
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