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Old 28th March 2013, 07:29 PM   #21
chriso1 is offline chriso1  United States
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Click the image to open in full size. The thermister looks more like the image on the left except it is a brown/yellow color. It looks a lot like a ceramic capacitor, about the size of a dime, round, 2 wires coming out the bottom, flat (maybe 1/8 of an inch thick). I replaced mine with a wire since they were continuously opening and killing the bass. It was a big improvement. Hope this helps.
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Old 28th March 2013, 07:48 PM   #22
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Default Post 22

Chriso1, Thanks for answering back so quickly.
I was referring to the schematic that Zvuchniak had posted later on. But, that is the component in post #22. I just wanted to be sure before I eliminated it.
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Old 28th March 2013, 08:11 PM   #23
chriso1 is offline chriso1  United States
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Yeah, I figured I had it wrong. in post 17 at the top of the image there is the + side of the amp output then a coil labeled fcore connected to a round thing that is the thermistor that is connected to another coil with two lines over it and that is connected to the + side of the back bass driver.

On the schematic I attached in post 16 it the same circuit, + from the output of the amp, to a coil I labeled L1 then down to a component I labeled C4 (that is the theristor, I didn't know it at the time) then the connection goes right and up and is connected to a coil I labeled LE then to the - side of what I called the sub woofer. You can also test it with the speaker not connected to anything. There should be nearly 0 resistance across the two wires coming from the thermister. It only opens when it gets into overload. Hope this helps.
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Old 28th March 2013, 08:20 PM   #24
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Default That's it.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 28th March 2013, 10:58 PM   #25
PB2 is offline PB2  United States
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@Zvuchniak the three 10 ohm resistors in parallel, in the tweeter and mid circuits, should be 10/3 not 10 x 3.

Also, on the 2Ci at least the 1000uF connects on the other side of the poly fuse as I recall,
so that only the acoustic coupler cuts out when the poly fuse opens. Perhaps this was a change.
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Last edited by PB2; 28th March 2013 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 12th April 2013, 11:05 AM   #26
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Thumbs up veandersteen 2 ce circuit and resistor information

hi guys I am a veandersteen 2 owner I have posted info about the crossover repairs I to have hit brick wall when it came time to repair my speaker so I traced out the circuit and worked out all the values of the components etc. so if the are people out the who need assistance with this I am only to happy to email a free copy of the circuit and a link to buy the replacement L pads theses are very important they become dirty and high in résistance the have to be bought from the states this is my email eletrontube42@gmail.com this is a new post 12/4/13 hope this helps
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Old 12th April 2013, 11:15 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriso1 View Post
I'm trying to repair the crossovers in a pair of Vandersteen 2ce's. I'm trouble identifying the value of the resistor in the attached crossover photo. Does anyone have a working crossover for these speakers that they could look at and let me know what the resistor value is? Any help would be appreciated.

Of course I'll be replacing the capacitor. Attachment 235725
10 ohm 1 watt and you will need to replace the l pads by the looks of the damage http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-248
Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 15W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm

I have the circuit if you need it a point to note its double sided pcb good soldering is needed and remove all the silicon on both and up grade wattage etc
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Old 12th April 2013, 11:25 AM   #28
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Default veandersteen 2 circuit

this is the veandersteen 2 circuit
Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 15W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm l pad replacement
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File Type: jpg veandersteen 001.jpg (802.0 KB, 43 views)
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