Vandersteen 2ce crossover repair - Page 2

xjr100 · 17th October 2012, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chriso1

I'm trying to repair the crossovers in a pair of Vandersteen 2ce's. I'm trouble identifying the value of the resistor in the attached crossover photo.

Are both crossovers damaged identically?

natural sound · 18th October 2012, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chriso1

I talked to Mr Vandersteen, he didn't sound too happy that I had removed the crossovers. I asked about just sending the crossover in for repair and he said they would need the entire speaker and that I needed to put the crossover back like it was before they would work on it.

From that I didn't get the impression they were interested in helping me out with a DIY repair.

I can tell you from my meeting with MR. Vendersteen. He was very cocky about his speakers and said the Vendersteen speakers will live on and I am teaching and pass it on to my sons now so they can carry on the name. I number 1 will never like the guy. Number 2 he has the uglyest speakers I have ever seen and they are not a (wf) my wife told me no way with thoses 70's looking speakers. Also on the good note his wife was very nice and spilled the beans to much about the drivers and the crossovers and the cost of the model 1 speakers. Other then that he has told my friends the same thing. Saying send in the whole speaker for repair. I know someone who blu out their 10" cuplier drivers and called to replace them. Mr. Vendersteen wouldn't even replace them if my friend didn't send the speakers in. Then he told the man he didn't make the replacement 10 inch drivers anymore. Thats just wrong to treat your customers this way. Sorry for the rant just never thought comapanys could get so rude and money hungry today.

chriso1 · 22nd October 2012, 02:57 PM

I ended up using a 10 Ohm resister on mine as well. Both crossovers had the same burned resister so I couldn't determine the original value from either.

I ended up prying the board that the crossover is glued to off of the back of the speaker. Then carefully pried the crossover off the board. That took a bit of force and time as it was really glued on there.

I'll post the circuit diagram later since I don't have it available right now.

Once I was able to trace out the circuit I discovered that the burned resister was not what was causing the speakers lack of bass.

The thermisters for both crossovers were activating at very low value levels and causing the bass to get attenuated and the LED's to flash. There weren't enough markings on the thermister to determine a replacement so I just bypassed it (eliminating the protection circuit). I also replaced all the caps with better quality but similar values and replaced the burned resister with a 10 Ohm one.

The results were quite a dramatic improvement in the sound quality of the speakers.
I'm very happy with the results.

cln.white · 22nd October 2012, 04:04 PM

Hi, I also removed the crossover and changed the caps for Mundorfs but am now considering Ansars, they now sit in their own MDF boxes at the rear of the speakers, I will look forward to seeing the diagram and if not too difficult may carry out same mods as you.

cln.white · 25th October 2012, 08:25 PM

Hi, I have now removed the thermistors and replaced with some nice 39s silver wire and this has made quite a jump in sound quality, is there any redundant components that can now be removed from the board?

chriso1 · 9th November 2012, 03:56 PM

I only traced out the bass section of the crossover. I attached it here, the item labeled C4 is actually the thermister.

Zvuchniak · 11th November 2012, 10:03 AM

Does this help ?

cln.white · 26th November 2012, 09:40 AM

Thanks to you both, I have now changed most caps to ansars and has made a jump in sound quality.Pity that it would be too costly to change the 1000uf to anything other than mundorfs (electrolytics) plus I now have no room left in the boxes I made for the x-overs!!!

joemusic · 28th March 2013, 06:52 PM

Chriso1,
Thanks for the schematic of the Vandy 2Ci woofer circuit. Unfortunately we cannot see the whole thing, the photo cut off the top of the schematic. You mentioned a thermistor, is that the yellow round thing? I am also rebuilding the crossover and that is the only thing that I have not been able to identify.
Thanks,
Joe

chriso1 · 28th March 2013, 07:20 PM

Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing...

The photo in post #1 is of the crossover and not a schematic. Forgive me if I over describe it, the two silver round things with vents are the backs of the potentiometers that adjust the crossover frequencies, to the far left in the photo is a blue cylinder that is a resister, in the middle of the photo is a brown cylinder with a blank, brown, white and gold bands on it, that's another resister, the red rectangle to the right is a capacitor, the white cylinder with the words "Wonder Cap" on it is another capacitor, to the lower right is a white spool with red wire, that is a coil, bottom middle under the fuzzy insulation is a row of red rectangles that are all capacitors and bottom left is the white from the spool for another coil, and running through the middle is a wire that overheated. I don't see the yellow round thing you mentioned. The thermistor is not visible in the photo on post #1.

26th November 2012, 09:40 AM	#18
cln.white diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Scottish Borders	Happy chappie Thanks to you both, I have now changed most caps to ansars and has made a jump in sound quality.Pity that it would be too costly to change the 1000uf to anything other than mundorfs (electrolytics) plus I now have no room left in the boxes I made for the x-overs!!!

28th March 2013, 06:52 PM	#19
joemusic diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Salt Lake City. Utah	Thermistor Chriso1, Thanks for the schematic of the Vandy 2Ci woofer circuit. Unfortunately we cannot see the whole thing, the photo cut off the top of the schematic. You mentioned a thermistor, is that the yellow round thing? I am also rebuilding the crossover and that is the only thing that I have not been able to identify. Thanks, Joe

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22nd October 2012, 02:57 PM	#13
chriso1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2011	I ended up using a 10 Ohm resister on mine as well. Both crossovers had the same burned resister so I couldn't determine the original value from either. I ended up prying the board that the crossover is glued to off of the back of the speaker. Then carefully pried the crossover off the board. That took a bit of force and time as it was really glued on there. I'll post the circuit diagram later since I don't have it available right now. Once I was able to trace out the circuit I discovered that the burned resister was not what was causing the speakers lack of bass. The thermisters for both crossovers were activating at very low value levels and causing the bass to get attenuated and the LED's to flash. There weren't enough markings on the thermister to determine a replacement so I just bypassed it (eliminating the protection circuit). I also replaced all the caps with better quality but similar values and replaced the burned resister with a 10 Ohm one. The results were quite a dramatic improvement in the sound quality of the speakers. I'm very happy with the results.

22nd October 2012, 04:04 PM	#14
cln.white diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Scottish Borders	Hi, I also removed the crossover and changed the caps for Mundorfs but am now considering Ansars, they now sit in their own MDF boxes at the rear of the speakers, I will look forward to seeing the diagram and if not too difficult may carry out same mods as you.

25th October 2012, 08:25 PM	#15
cln.white diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Scottish Borders	Hi, I have now removed the thermistors and replaced with some nice 39s silver wire and this has made quite a jump in sound quality, is there any redundant components that can now be removed from the board?

28th March 2013, 07:20 PM	#20
chriso1 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2011	Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing... The photo in post #1 is of the crossover and not a schematic. Forgive me if I over describe it, the two silver round things with vents are the backs of the potentiometers that adjust the crossover frequencies, to the far left in the photo is a blue cylinder that is a resister, in the middle of the photo is a brown cylinder with a blank, brown, white and gold bands on it, that's another resister, the red rectangle to the right is a capacitor, the white cylinder with the words "Wonder Cap" on it is another capacitor, to the lower right is a white spool with red wire, that is a coil, bottom middle under the fuzzy insulation is a row of red rectangles that are all capacitors and bottom left is the white from the spool for another coil, and running through the middle is a wire that overheated. I don't see the yellow round thing you mentioned. The thermistor is not visible in the photo on post #1.