I have amazed myself and got some sort of sim of the B102 working!
That is cool!
I need to find a couple of 3.3mH coils...
I don't know if it helps, but the actual cabinet in question is more like 30cm baffle width, and slightly larger volume, more like 65L.
H, W, D = 95cm x 31cm x 32cm (external dimensions)
I used the B102's published specs in WinISD and got a ported tuning at about Fb = 55Hz, with a predicted F3 of about 50Hz.
You tuned it to Fb = 25Hz in a 60L cab with 25cm baffle width, or am I misunderstanding what you wrote?
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I didn't know what I was doing on the tuning or box. I looked up some recommendation on the webs.
But going for your 30cm width in a tower of 65L and 55Hz tuning, it is starting to fall into place. Woofer is 20 cm from the top. Tweeter below. Is that how Zu do it?
But going for your 30cm width in a tower of 65L and 55Hz tuning, it is starting to fall into place. Woofer is 20 cm from the top. Tweeter below. Is that how Zu do it?
Attachments
Looking through the accumulated parts, I find I have a pair of air-core 1.8mH 0.8R and a pair of 1.2mH 0.6R. Put them in series and I could get 3mH 1.4R. Is that workable, or do I absolutely need to purchase a pair of 3.3mH coils?
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Wait... 2.7mH? Lemme see...
I have a pair of iron core 2.1mH and a pair of air-core 0.62mH.
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Wait... 2.7mH? Lemme see...
I have a pair of iron core 2.1mH and a pair of air-core 0.62mH.
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I always look at a redesign when I am missing some component. Which is not to say you can't use that improvised 3mH coil.
The impedance corrected circuit that gets to much the same place on FR is below. Now I did only spend 5 minutes on that, so it's rough and ready. But I think you have most of the parts.
The impedance corrected circuit that gets to much the same place on FR is below. Now I did only spend 5 minutes on that, so it's rough and ready. But I think you have most of the parts.
Attachments
Yup, that's it. They say they use an Eminence ASD1001 compression driver for the tweeter, in a small round waveguide. The cabinet size is similar too, at 91.5cm x 30.5cm x 30.5cm.
Years ago, I had purchased a pair of custom-made tractrix horns with a pair of Selenium D220ti drivers mounted. They're still in the cabinets. I guess I should use them.
The reason I was sold on the tractrix horns was that I was told it would be easy to get a crossover working with them. Unlike OS waveguides, they shouldn't need a lot of xover EQ, for the reasons that bwaslo explained earlier. (As bwaslo described it, this is not necessarily a good thing. But it's what I have, so I'd like to try to make the best of it.)
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I don't know if I can upload these FRD and ZMA files...but I'll have a go.
I did these with the SPL trace in VituixCAD with a png image of the Eminence plot.
Speaker Detail | Eminence Speaker
VituixCAD is not my idea of easy to use, so I preferred the Boxsim simulator which I know pretty well.
I then imported them into Software | Visaton over a similar W250S-8 10" driver in a defined common enclosure. I guessed these were infinite baffle measurements. I adjusted Fs, Qes, DCR and Qms and Vas for the Eminence.
You might try these files. Become a light unto yourself, an' all that. Default 90Hz is good for 90dB in the Visaton import dialog, I reckon. Seemed to get level about right. This comes with no guarantee whatsoever!
I did these with the SPL trace in VituixCAD with a png image of the Eminence plot.
Speaker Detail | Eminence Speaker
VituixCAD is not my idea of easy to use, so I preferred the Boxsim simulator which I know pretty well.
I then imported them into Software | Visaton over a similar W250S-8 10" driver in a defined common enclosure. I guessed these were infinite baffle measurements. I adjusted Fs, Qes, DCR and Qms and Vas for the Eminence.
You might try these files. Become a light unto yourself, an' all that. Default 90Hz is good for 90dB in the Visaton import dialog, I reckon. Seemed to get level about right. This comes with no guarantee whatsoever!
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I was thinking about this, and I thought, wait...
If a dome tweeter has a nice, flat frequency response, and if a constant directivity horn (like an EOS or a SEOS) give the same response as the drivers have...
Does that mean a dome tweeter mated to a constant directivity horn will require very little EQ to get an acceptably flat output frequency response?
Or at least a lot less than a compression driver mated to a constant directivity horn?
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eh, the cd horn will give some boost due to narrowing of the response (usually in the vertical), but not usually past 5khz.
A buddy said to predict a horn / compression driver response, overlay the plane wave graph with the DI horn plot. Like a tractrix horn, it narrows dispersion as the frequency goes up, but it boosts the high end on axis. It is directing some of the bubble of sound.
Horn loading a dome, the HF is either too high to see the horn or not strong enough magnet.
here is the response of a flatish measuring dome on a round horn.
see the chart "Raw In-box Response and Impedance Curves"
maybe 1/2 way down.
Zaph|Audio
notice it gives 5db of lift 1-4khz, but past 6khz, response is back down to what the driver naturally does.
Cd horns don't boost highs much, but you get better coverage in the room, front to back.
You get highs close and far from the speaker.
But cd horns usually have many reflections due to angles and such.
A buddy said to predict a horn / compression driver response, overlay the plane wave graph with the DI horn plot. Like a tractrix horn, it narrows dispersion as the frequency goes up, but it boosts the high end on axis. It is directing some of the bubble of sound.
Horn loading a dome, the HF is either too high to see the horn or not strong enough magnet.
here is the response of a flatish measuring dome on a round horn.
see the chart "Raw In-box Response and Impedance Curves"
maybe 1/2 way down.
Zaph|Audio
notice it gives 5db of lift 1-4khz, but past 6khz, response is back down to what the driver naturally does.
Cd horns don't boost highs much, but you get better coverage in the room, front to back.
You get highs close and far from the speaker.
But cd horns usually have many reflections due to angles and such.
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So I found this thread after a recent find has spawned a mini-project here.
A pair of Klipsch RB51II came my way for an awfully good price, after trying them for a while, I’d decided they weren’t really my flavor and set them aside.
Some time later, I pulled out a set of Dahlquist DQ16s from 25 years ago, and really liked how they sound in my current setup.
That led me to see if there was a way to tweak the Klipsch such that they would be more like the preferred speakers. After a week or two, I came up with a combo that surprised me.
The tweeter was padded down using a series 2.5ohm and 18ohm in parallel, removed the main capacitor (6uf) for the tweeter and replaced it with 4uf. The capacitor for the woofer (20uf) now has 2uf added to it. That pretty much put things where the two speakers were hard to tell apart. An extra .22uf Wima FKP1 added to each helped to close the gap between the two speakers, the other caps are some older Seimens MKT, 1uf parts.
The only other thing I may try is to extend the port a bit, maybe add some stuffing, but they’re great as is, with the crossover adjustments.
I thought if others were to find some similar Tractrix speakers for cheap and were looking for ideas on how to make them sound better, here’s a start.
A pair of Klipsch RB51II came my way for an awfully good price, after trying them for a while, I’d decided they weren’t really my flavor and set them aside.
Some time later, I pulled out a set of Dahlquist DQ16s from 25 years ago, and really liked how they sound in my current setup.
That led me to see if there was a way to tweak the Klipsch such that they would be more like the preferred speakers. After a week or two, I came up with a combo that surprised me.
The tweeter was padded down using a series 2.5ohm and 18ohm in parallel, removed the main capacitor (6uf) for the tweeter and replaced it with 4uf. The capacitor for the woofer (20uf) now has 2uf added to it. That pretty much put things where the two speakers were hard to tell apart. An extra .22uf Wima FKP1 added to each helped to close the gap between the two speakers, the other caps are some older Seimens MKT, 1uf parts.
The only other thing I may try is to extend the port a bit, maybe add some stuffing, but they’re great as is, with the crossover adjustments.
I thought if others were to find some similar Tractrix speakers for cheap and were looking for ideas on how to make them sound better, here’s a start.