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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Does anybody know if the plastic phase shield on the DQ25SC tweeter is actually useful or not? Is it just a physical protection device? I'd like to know if I can remove the entire face plate without affecting functionality.
I popped off the heatsink on the back and I plan to turn down the faceplate on a lathe to reduce the dipole offset when mounted back-to-back. It looks like this tweeter, used in back-to-back pairing, could be a valid (or superior) alternative to the Neo3 for a dipole tweeter. ![]() If you want to try this yourself (these tweeters are not that expensive), do this: 1) Unscrew the Philips screw located in the center of the heatsink 2) Make sure the Philips screw is fully loose - note that it is not likely to fall out on its own, nor does it need to 3) Using needle-nose locking pliers (Vice-Grips), grab a fin and twist it like a clock hand, keeping the face plate stationary. The fin will bend but the heatsink should snap off. For those concerned about heat dissipation because the heatsink has been removed - a thin piece of aluminum bar can be inserted between the motors of the tweeters to pull heat away much more effectively than the heatsinks that come stock.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet Last edited by 454Casull; 13th August 2011 at 11:43 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Silicon Valley
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Why did you call it a "phase shield"?
If you take it off you'll have to punch a small central hole in the diaphragm to compensate. Remember how some early dome tweeters had a hole? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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I think I read in some literature that it was called a phase shield. These tweeters were introduced a long time ago, though.
No, I don't remember about the early dome tweeters.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Someone was selling DQ25s on ebay a few months back minus the phase plug/shield.
I wad expect to see some droop in the top end if you removed it. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Some progress here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1044317...eat=directlink The overall depth of the tweeter is ~16 mm. The outer diameter of the tweeter is 43 mm. The distance from the center of the tweeter to the face edge is 21.5 mm. The distance from the OD of the modified tweeter to the voice coil (outside of the dome) is 8 mm. The dipole spacing should then be 16+21.5 = 37.5 mm not including half the thickness of a aluminum bar for mounting and heat sinking (say, another 2 mm). This leads to a dipole peak of approximately 4400 Hz. Compare this to the Neo3, which is 61 mm x 89 mm (applicable raw dimensions), averaged to 75 mm, gives a dipole peak of approximately 2300 Hz. So, we're looking at true dipole behaviour for almost an octave higher, with better power handling, higher maximum SPL (probably), and higher sensitivity, for half as much for the pair. Also, you can mount this unit slightly closer to your mid, to reduce vertical lobing, than you can the Neo3. Winner? I am concerned with diffraction off the proximal circular edge, which is why I added the relatively generous 45 degree chamfer, but most likely the best way to go is to wrap the unit with some open-cell foam or felt. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Honestly, I don't think you can find a smaller good tweeter on the market right now... this tweeter, for $13.25 a pop at Madisound, is a serious beast.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet Last edited by 454Casull; 16th August 2011 at 04:47 AM. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
At the cost of stored energy, of course. Some investigation proved that WITHOUT phase shield is better Vifa DQ25 Phase Shield removal surgery ...!
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http://gainphile.blogspot.com |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Interesting. I don't know where you draw the conclusion that the off-axis response is superior without the shield than with; the responses look very similar... unless you are referring to the elimination of the peak in the top octave in the off-axis response.
How would you recommend removing the shield? I couldn't figure out how to remove the face plate without cutting into the glue, and that I did not want to do.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet Last edited by 454Casull; 16th August 2011 at 05:20 AM. |
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
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http://gainphile.blogspot.com |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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So, keeping in line with the low cost of the tweeters, I think these would make a good match from 1800-2000Hz and below:
Aura NS6-255-8A 6" Paper Cone Neodymium Magnet Woofer High sensitivity and a relatively small rear footprint. Unfortunately I cannot find any data on the distortion figures but the NRT motor is fairly reputable. Also, the other drawbacks, like the stamped frame, can easily be fixed by 1) magnet mounting, and 2) damping. If only the paper gasket on the flange weren't so damn ugly...
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet Last edited by 454Casull; 16th August 2011 at 06:44 AM. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Quote:
I was thinking of using a Dremel (rotary cutter) to do mine.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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